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Old 11-03-2006, 05:11 PM
  #601  
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R40 - There MUST be something going on, unless you just have the bad luck of getting a few bad servos in a row. There's no mysterious servo ghost...haha.
Me too! I'm completely perplexed, aside from a series of bad servos, and/or a bad reciever, I'm just lost. I do have the brakes set up a little loose so they don't lock up. I have them set to almost lock up the rears, while the fronts can just barely roll. I'll try setting it up with more brakes, and less travel.

I drove the car tonight to test and get some practice. It ran flawlessly, I'm very pleased with the setup, this car flies! The next big race is the weekend after this, so I have plenty of servo killing time to see how it's running...
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Old 11-04-2006, 12:31 AM
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I'm glad that you're happy with the car, and that your servo disaster hasn't discouraged you from the buggy itself. If I think of anything that may help, I'll let you know for sure...and if you come up with anything, I'd appreciate if you let me know so I can pass the information along.
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Old 11-04-2006, 07:13 AM
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Cool, thanks, and will do. We plan to run our cars this afternoon, so I'll post any issues/discoveries.
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Old 11-04-2006, 10:30 AM
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Also, check to make sure your brake cams rotate freely. I've had a couple people say they've noticed a bit of binding after a few race days.

I'm going to run my car this afternoon too....sounds like a lot of fun after a few days of electric last week!
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Old 11-04-2006, 11:29 AM
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Default brake cam

I posted this on the Grid but seems to apply here also.

I was running yesterday and noticed my back brakes dragging. Took a
look at the car today and noticed the brake cam would not rotate and
was tight. I found that the two rear screws on the top plate had to be
tightened down then backed off a 1/4 turn (about 2 hours on the clock) to let the cam turn freely. If the two rear screws were tightened it would not let the cam spin freely.

Also I have read about this servo problem on here and wondered about the heat from the motor. Yesterday after a run I felt the side of the servo after a run and it was too hot to touch. I run the Hitec 5955 in both the brake and steering and have not had a problem but the heat was a concern.
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Old 11-04-2006, 11:41 AM
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Haha, that's the post I was referring to. Good lookin' out Buggyman

I'll check to see if my throttle servo is hot when the car comes off the track today.
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Old 11-04-2006, 04:23 PM
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Buggyman, I had the same problem with the brakes....... I just removed the bushing in the upper brace that the cam goes through and sanded the flanged side on a flat surface with fine sand paper then assembled it and cranked the screws tight and it works great.... just an idea if you would like to re-tighten your screws
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Old 11-05-2006, 12:34 AM
  #608  
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My throttle servo decided it didn't want to play anymore, haha. It stopped working intermittently during warm-up for the main tonight, and then it quit altogether just as the race started. To be fair, that particular servo has seen over a year of abuse in my Jammin' buggy, plus another gallon now in my Losi car.

I'll look into this pretty seriously this week and see what we can come up with. It's unfair to say that these failures are a fluke.
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Old 11-05-2006, 04:40 AM
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Default servo.

my only guess could be from the heat. although the hang up of the brake cam would put more stress on the servo. I was thinking about some aluminum foil on the side of the servo to protect against the heat of the motor.
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Old 11-05-2006, 05:01 AM
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1) how do you all have the ball link on the carb angled? (if that makes sense)

I found that I had mine, in what seemed like a good position, set up so it was really straining the servo past half throttle.

I fixed it yesterday and it is much smoother now. I'll post a pic of it in a bit.

2) Has anyone had the locknuts on the quickchange shock mounts come loose? More specifically the fronts? I noticed mine were loose.
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Old 11-05-2006, 06:17 AM
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aaron, you have a pm.
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Old 11-05-2006, 12:07 PM
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Oh trust me, I recognized the irony right away. Just because something may be wrong doesn't mean everything was right on my car. There's no way that a certain brand car can systematically destroy servos. I was laughing to myself all week that it was only a matter of time before my own servo blew up. It's obvious that this IS a problem and not just a fluke and we'll figure it out, don't worry.

And you can say "I told you so". I deserve it!

Honestly, I think it's a good thing that I was able to replicate the problems other people have had (thank goodness it was a club race!), because now I have a basis from which to trouble-shoot my own problem...which will hopefully create a fix for everyone else that has had throttle servo failures.
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Old 11-05-2006, 01:02 PM
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What I want to know is what on the servos is breaking? I.E. is it a heat issue or from vibration?

I want to figure this out before I run mine!
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Old 11-05-2006, 01:24 PM
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In truth, the 8ight's throttle servo looks to be closer to the crank case than on any other chassis, what with everything being huddled closer to the centerline and all, so there may very well be a correlation between the two. The only other thing that I feel it could be would be stress put on the servo during hard braking, but as the system is very similar to what you see on other buggies, I don't think that's the culprit.

As for myself, I was planning to put insulation on the servo, the battery box, as well as the rear chassis brace so as to minimize any heat-related issues. Hopefully that will help somewhat.
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Old 11-05-2006, 01:26 PM
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Is this only happening to people that have binding brake cams ? You have to ream the top plate for the brake cam bushing to fully seat. At least I had to on mine.

Also my throttle servo was hitting the mounting post where the leads exit the servo.. I ground the post a little for clearance.
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