Losi 8ight building and setup
03-20-2007, 07:36 AM
#2536
Mine leaked too, but only because I got rear-ended during a race. That gave my shock shafts a little bend, and I could only tell when the shaft was off the shock and on a flat surface. Pull yours out and check them.
I've been using the stock Losi o-rings the whole time, and when I run with good clean drivers that don't nail my car, it goes for months and several races without leaking. In fact, I'd go so far as to say they won't leak until it gets nailed again.
I've been using the stock Losi o-rings the whole time, and when I run with good clean drivers that don't nail my car, it goes for months and several races without leaking. In fact, I'd go so far as to say they won't leak until it gets nailed again.
03-20-2007, 08:57 AM
#2537
Originally Posted by David Alberico
my shocks never leak. I've never ever had a problem with a losi shock.
A bunch of us from Omaha are heading down to Pleasant Hill on the 31st for some 1/8 buggy action, hope to see you there.
03-20-2007, 11:00 AM
#2538
Originally Posted by GTB_USER_Erik
So here is another question.
Is it normal for a Ninja engine to be very hard to turn over by hand. Is the 'Pinch' so great that it is like this till it is heated by a Heat-Gun till warmed up?????
Is it normal for a Ninja engine to be very hard to turn over by hand. Is the 'Pinch' so great that it is like this till it is heated by a Heat-Gun till warmed up?????
This is normal for any good motor new.
03-20-2007, 11:15 AM
#2539
Originally Posted by RBMike
This is normal for any good motor new.
03-20-2007, 12:42 PM
#2540
I had to re-charge my starter box batteries twice & replace my starter box wheel to get thru breaking in a new C6 a couple of weeks ago. This can be a frustraiting processes breaking in a high quality motor but that's the price you pay for power.
Put a little oil in it & make sure you prime the motor before you start, this helps a little but I'm sure your motor will "stick" a few times wile your trying to get it started for the first 1/2 to 1 gallon. All normal stuff, don't worry.
Put a little oil in it & make sure you prime the motor before you start, this helps a little but I'm sure your motor will "stick" a few times wile your trying to get it started for the first 1/2 to 1 gallon. All normal stuff, don't worry.
03-20-2007, 12:47 PM
#2541
Originally Posted by RBMike
I had to re-charge my starter box batteries twice & replace my starter box wheel to get thru breaking in a new C6 a couple of weeks ago. This can be a frustraiting processes breaking in a high quality motor but that's the price you pay for power.
Man I don't want it sound like I'm crying here but there was a huge price up front already
03-20-2007, 02:17 PM
#2542
The cost & effort to race 1/8th scale is a jump up from 1/10th for sure.
03-20-2007, 02:26 PM
#2543
It came, it came , my order has arrived from A-MainHobbies. Now I can put the car together and Break-in this engine
03-20-2007, 02:29 PM
#2544
Originally Posted by RBMike
The cost & effort to race 1/8th scale is a jump up from 1/10th for sure.
but I'am so looking forward to the compitation this will provide me this Summer
03-20-2007, 05:44 PM
#2545
Has anyone mounted a fuel filter in the fuel splash guard? Im just trying to figure a place to put one.
03-20-2007, 07:56 PM
#2546
Originally Posted by tex1
Matt,
The 2050 (discontinued so don't sell it) has more bottom. The 2060 is a smooth pipe that was designed to settle peaky motors such as the V-Spec.
Both are great pipes! The 2050 will get you a little better fuel times.
Hint = The 2060 (long curved) comes with a completey different header than the 2050 (short squared). Get both headers! It is a great tuning option.
Hope this helps,
TEX
The 2050 (discontinued so don't sell it) has more bottom. The 2060 is a smooth pipe that was designed to settle peaky motors such as the V-Spec.
Both are great pipes! The 2050 will get you a little better fuel times.
Hint = The 2060 (long curved) comes with a completey different header than the 2050 (short squared). Get both headers! It is a great tuning option.
Hope this helps,
TEX
+1
03-20-2007, 08:01 PM
#2547
[QUOTE=G Mills]Has anyone noticed that their new chassis isn't strait? If you place it on a flat surface there is about a 2mm arch in the chassis. Is this the way they were designed, or are there some quality control issues. It's a brand new never run chassis.
Same here. Bought 3 week ago, newest vesion of the kit as it comes with the Blue alum.shoes etc. Arch exactly the same as yours. My kit is for parts only, so I dont know if there's a "fitting-prob" regarding screw-holes etc..
Same here. Bought 3 week ago, newest vesion of the kit as it comes with the Blue alum.shoes etc. Arch exactly the same as yours. My kit is for parts only, so I dont know if there's a "fitting-prob" regarding screw-holes etc..
03-20-2007, 08:04 PM
#2548
maybe
Maybe they are doing that now to help fix the throttle servo problem. Just a suggestion. But that may be why.
03-20-2007, 08:21 PM
#2550
Originally Posted by GTB_USER_Erik
Ok. it just seems very hard to turn over. I hope my starter box is up to the task
Eric
Use a heat-gun or a hair-dryer to pre-heat your engine a little before attemting to start it. Blow heat on the engine-head towards the side that your tune pipe is, not towards the servos as this builds condensation in them when it's cold in the wether 
Don't use the highest setting on a heat-gun, that's just too hot. This will fire up your new engine in a snap, and help against unesessary stress on your conrod & setup, not to mention your startbox-wheel