Losi 8ight building and setup
#2416
Yes, I raised the motor assembly up about 4-5mm. Just used 4 nuts that I had laying around. And yes on the Deans connector. Pack already comes with one Deans connector attached to the battery, then you need to get another Deans for the other end. Very simple install.
#2417
Originally Posted by SupermaxxRich
Yes, I raised the motor assembly up about 4-5mm. Just used 4 nuts that I had laying around. And yes on the Deans connector. Pack already comes with one Deans connector attached to the battery, then you need to get another Deans for the other end. Very simple install.
#2418
Originally Posted by GTB_USER_Erik
Ok on the raising of the motor assembly. Will I need to get a new engine mount for the Ninja????
#2419
Ok Good because I have the RTR. I didnt realy want to spend some more cash just yet
Thank you very much Rich
Thank you very much Rich
#2420
Originally Posted by GTB_USER_Erik
Ok Good because I have the RTR. I didnt realy want to spend some more cash just yet
Thank you very much Rich
Thank you very much Rich
#2421
rtr engine mounts
eric, if you have rtr engine mounts they will not work with a starter box , you will need the kit mounts. rtr mounts are too tall .
#2422
Hey guys
Hey guys ok I have a question. OK I have gone through 7 servos in my losi 8ight in the past month, I have the rtr but I converted it to the kit the only thing I have that is stil from the rtr is the chassis. Now I am sick of going threw servos, The longest servo that lasted , lasted me 4 tanks of fuel. I even had a servo go out on me on my starter box, I started my buggy up to race and poof it just died. I have done everything I put alluminum chassis braces on, a kingheadz radio tray stiffiner, cut the spring and ball cup, put a shock o ring from my 8ight under the battery of the radio tray with a 8/32 1/2 inch screw and just threaded it just to the top of the batter box where the screw was sticking out of the bottom of the chassis a little. So I called Bill a team losi and he said take the front alluminum chassis brace off and the kingheadz radio tray stiffiner and he said I could leave the alluminium chassis brace on if I wanted so I did. Now I am putting in a airtronics grey now and now just to be on the safe side I want to know if I have the rubber grommets in right with the gold inserts. Now this picture I did not take another guy took it on another forum, but mine is just like his. So do I have them in right.
Also the past 6 servos I blew I know they were set up correctley becasue I had the region 9 champion truggy racer set my last servo up and he even races a 8ight buggy also and that one blew in 5 laps at my lhs track. I am stricley a racer and I am pretty good also So I am not one of those people that pound on there stuff. O yeah I also put 3 little layers of that heat resistant tape on my servo just to be on the safe side if heat is causing the servos to fail. I used the tape that looks like tin foil it is real shiney I got it at lowes so I put that on the side of the servo that is facing the motor and I put it on the bottom of the servo. So I am just getting sick of when I go out there to race I have to worrie about a servo going out. So If any of you could help me and also tell me by the picture I posted if I have the rubber grommotes on right I just want to make sure. I ma just trying to figure out why I am blowing up servos so fast. Thank you guys very much you do not know how much I appriciate it thank you again.
Also the past 6 servos I blew I know they were set up correctley becasue I had the region 9 champion truggy racer set my last servo up and he even races a 8ight buggy also and that one blew in 5 laps at my lhs track. I am stricley a racer and I am pretty good also So I am not one of those people that pound on there stuff. O yeah I also put 3 little layers of that heat resistant tape on my servo just to be on the safe side if heat is causing the servos to fail. I used the tape that looks like tin foil it is real shiney I got it at lowes so I put that on the side of the servo that is facing the motor and I put it on the bottom of the servo. So I am just getting sick of when I go out there to race I have to worrie about a servo going out. So If any of you could help me and also tell me by the picture I posted if I have the rubber grommotes on right I just want to make sure. I ma just trying to figure out why I am blowing up servos so fast. Thank you guys very much you do not know how much I appriciate it thank you again.
#2423
1)Loose the gold inserts, Put a flat washer on each of the screws that you use to mount the servo and tighten them down to where the rubber sqwashes a little.
2) no offence to anyone but if a servo blew on the starter box as you say, the linkages are NOT set up correctly.
2) no offence to anyone but if a servo blew on the starter box as you say, the linkages are NOT set up correctly.
#2424
hey losi8ight, the losi 8's are known for blowing servos dont know why though
#2425
People are known for not setting up the linkage correctly, or not isolating the radio tray enough from vibration, it's not the buggy itself blowing servos. It think its more apparent on the 8, since the engine is closer to the radio tray/throttle servo than most other buggies on the market. On my previous Mugen's, I usually had more problems with the linkage not being long enough, instead of too long and allowing things to bind up. The engine/brakes are a lot closer to the servo, therefore clearances and tolerances for improper linkage/end point setup are that much tighter and less forgiving. And if you servo is over-traveling due to glitching, bye-bye servo.
#2426
Originally Posted by nobike
hey losi8ight, the losi 8's are known for blowing servos dont know why though
ya don't say. thanks for that insightful report there bro.
#2427
Tech Initiate
I've never blown a servo. Buy a high quality servo and set it up properly and you will be fine. If I remember correctly, you have been using a bunch of cheap servos. Some people say it doesn't make a difference but I disagree. Read Rich's explaination again and follow the instructions.
#2428
Tech Elite
iTrader: (67)
(Quote)'I hear a lot about running changes and parts that should be checked up
on due to wear...
I just want to make sure I check/replace these things, before I find out
its to late. (quote)
Scr_achy, I think they changed the steering rod ends, Ofna ones work. I also noticed quite a bit of wear on the front drive shaft pin which I have heard about on here due to the angle.
I have not done it yet but instead of buying a new shaft I usually push the pin out and turn it 90 deg. and push it back in. The next time I replace the pin with a hard pin or dowel. I just did it today on our Jammin Crt, works awesome, if anyone is throwing out there old shafts I'll buy them cheap!
Rex
on due to wear...
I just want to make sure I check/replace these things, before I find out
its to late. (quote)
Scr_achy, I think they changed the steering rod ends, Ofna ones work. I also noticed quite a bit of wear on the front drive shaft pin which I have heard about on here due to the angle.
I have not done it yet but instead of buying a new shaft I usually push the pin out and turn it 90 deg. and push it back in. The next time I replace the pin with a hard pin or dowel. I just did it today on our Jammin Crt, works awesome, if anyone is throwing out there old shafts I'll buy them cheap!
Rex
#2429
RTR Engine Mounts
Originally Posted by tom yfz
eric, if you have rtr engine mounts they will not work with a starter box , you will need the kit mounts. rtr mounts are too tall .
Thank you Tom.....
#2430
Originally Posted by JustinWZP
I've never blown a servo. Buy a high quality servo and set it up properly and you will be fine. If I remember correctly, you have been using a bunch of cheap servos. Some people say it doesn't make a difference but I disagree. Read Rich's explaination again and follow the instructions.