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Old 02-06-2007, 08:28 PM
  #1726  
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Originally Posted by losi8ight
Hey guys I just took out my center diff and I forgot which brake disk goes where. Does the big one go in the back twords the motor or twords the steering servo. Also this is just a question if somebody put them on oposite than the way they were supposed to go on and ran them like that what would happened and would there be any damage. damage. thank you guys.

Larger disk is the front brake. I don't have my car next to me, or the manual, but I believe the disk are interchangable, though you wouldn't want to do that, usually, as it's easier to drive a car that favors the front brake (as, say, an actual automobile does).

You shouldn't be wrenching without a manual though, if you're unfamiliar with the car; did you lose it? I believe Losi has them online in pdf form.
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Old 02-06-2007, 08:33 PM
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No I am very familiar with my 8ight and yes I left my manual at my lhs. So you know how sometimes your brain goes blank. And I could not find any good pics of the brake disc's on team losi website. So thank you very much I really appriciate it alot. So larger disc twords the front of the truck got it.
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Old 02-07-2007, 02:16 AM
  #1728  
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HI HAS ANYBOBY ENCOUNTER WITH PROBLEMS REGARDING PART LOSA3526 FRONT CENTRE CV DRIVESHAFT ASSY. I RAN MY LOSI8 FOR THE FIRST TIME YESTERDAY AND AFTER ABOUT 5 TANKS, THE PIN ON THE DRIVESHAFT CAME OFF BY ITSELF. CAN ANYBOBY HELP ?
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Old 02-07-2007, 02:48 AM
  #1729  
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Originally Posted by SEADOO
HI HAS ANYBOBY ENCOUNTER WITH PROBLEMS REGARDING PART LOSA3526 FRONT CENTRE CV DRIVESHAFT ASSY. I RAN MY LOSI8 FOR THE FIRST TIME YESTERDAY AND AFTER ABOUT 5 TANKS, THE PIN ON THE DRIVESHAFT CAME OFF BY ITSELF. CAN ANYBOBY HELP ?
Chances are, your set-screw came loose. What I did was loctite the set screw and made sure it was tight, then I put a piece of shrink wrap tubing around the housing that the pin goes in. That way, if your set screw comes lose again, the pin wont fall out. Your LHS should have shrink wrap. If not, most electronic stores sells it. If you have a heat gun, great, if not, just hit it a few times with a lighter.
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Old 02-07-2007, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by rwlkr
Chances are, your set-screw came loose. What I did was loctite the set screw and made sure it was tight, then I put a piece of shrink wrap tubing around the housing that the pin goes in. That way, if your set screw comes lose again, the pin wont fall out. Your LHS should have shrink wrap. If not, most electronic stores sells it. If you have a heat gun, great, if not, just hit it a few times with a lighter.
Hi, is the other side of the shaft which does not use the set screw. I think the part is faulty.
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Old 02-07-2007, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by SEADOO
Hi, is the other side of the shaft which does not use the set screw. I think the part is faulty.
DOH! My mistake. Actually, yes, that same thing happened to me too! It's the end that goes into the center diff. I never really looked into it, as I just thought it was a case of bad luck. I replaced it and haven't had a problem since doing so.
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:00 AM
  #1732  
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I'm now at 4.5 gallons and I have had my first damage. My rear outer hinge pin bent. I noticed near the end of the day that the rear end was getting bouncy. I figured I had a shock going bad. Last night I tore it down & the shocks were fine so I started inspecting the rest of the rear end and noticed my droop was uneven. One of the rear A arms was binding & would not droop down to where the droop set screw hits the chassis. My last run of the day the rear clutch bell bearing disintegrated freezing the clutch bell & breaking 1 tooth off the bell. So far that's all I have had to replace (except clutch shoes & bearing).
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by RBMike
I'm now at 4.5 gallons and I have had my first damage. My rear outer hinge pin bent. I noticed near the end of the day that the rear end was getting bouncy. I figured I had a shock going bad. Last night I tore it down & the shocks were fine so I started inspecting the rest of the rear end and noticed my droop was uneven. One of the rear A arms was binding & would not droop down to where the droop set screw hits the chassis. My last run of the day the rear clutch bell bearing disintegrated freezing the clutch bell & breaking 1 tooth off the bell. So far that's all I have had to replace (except clutch shoes & bearing).
you may want to loosen up your gear mesh a little as the 8ight has quite a bit of chassis flex and that needs to be compensated by increased clearance on gear mesh Thats what more than likely took your CB bearing out

Outer rear hingepins are a little on the soft side on the 8ight as I have bent a few but Losi is looking into this and getting it addressed
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Old 02-07-2007, 11:29 AM
  #1734  
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How often do you guys replace your clutch shoes on your 8ight. also do you run 2 alluminum clutch shoes with 2 carbon or 4 alluminum and what clutch springs do you run on what type of clutch shoe.
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Old 02-07-2007, 11:44 AM
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Rich, I agree with you about the mesh although I will add that I was running a VERY old motor (RBWS7, ya the original one). This motor has a very worn crank & there is a little too much slop where the bearings ride on the crank. I think that was a big contributor. I'm not going to blame it on the cars design.

losi8ight, The answer to your question will very with drivers & their driving style. For me, I liked the stock set up (2 carbon w/gold & 2 aluminium w/silver) as far as the bite goes. That set up lasted me 1 gallon. I also like using 4 KingHeads 7075's with 2 gold & 2 silver, this set up lasted me almost 2 gallons with shoe maintainance.
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Old 02-07-2007, 11:54 AM
  #1736  
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Thanks rbmike now for the shoe maintnece I hear alot of people take a dremale and smooth the clutch shoe so it is nice and smooth. Is this what you mean by clutch shoe maintence if so let me know.
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Old 02-07-2007, 12:16 PM
  #1737  
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He prolly means knocking the excess off the sides as they wear.
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Old 02-07-2007, 12:20 PM
  #1738  
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So how would you exacley do that with out screwing up the clutch shoe's it's self. Sorry man I used to race revo's so I am new to the 4 shoe clutchs. I just want to aks questions so I know what I am doing.
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Old 02-07-2007, 12:31 PM
  #1739  
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As the aluminium shoes wear, some aluminium burrs up along the edges (sides) of the shoes. If it builds up too much it can cause the shoes to get hung up on the clutch bell ot the flywheel. You must remove the burrs before this occurs. I just pull them out and file that stuff off.
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Old 02-07-2007, 12:34 PM
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Talking Whats works best

What works best to file them down. Also do you think I can use a dremmel to file theem down.
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