1/8th scale buggy brushless motor/esc recommendations?
09-24-2006, 08:19 PM
#16
6mm carbon fiber... two 3mmm pieces glued together actually. It's just what I was able to get my hands on.
I would have picked some nice aluminum, like 4-6mm.... but I don't have any. I kinda like working with the graphite. But I should find some aluminum and try that. I found some 7075 small pieces online pretty cheap once.
I would have picked some nice aluminum, like 4-6mm.... but I don't have any. I kinda like working with the graphite. But I should find some aluminum and try that. I found some 7075 small pieces online pretty cheap once.
09-25-2006, 04:15 PM
#17
You can get a motor mount from us at TEAM Fcr, you can see pics of the mount here...
http://s112.photobucket.com/albums/n178/charancon/
You will see a small video as well. I'm afraid that the FD mount would kinda hurd the fins or not be solid when using a finnned designed motor. It also seems to be limited to one motor diameter ! And the motors, don't seem to have a normal diameter when using heatsinks around them. And believe me, the heatsink is a good thing to have, no matter how efficient the motor is ! The motor I have is a Plettenberg HP220 maxximum and sells around 250-300 as well. Its got a built in fan and NEVER overheats. I also have the Quark 125B Monster as an ESC and that is very good as well. It coggs a little bit from a standing start, sometimes. But really nothing to be worried about. A VERY good reference for online brushless equipment would be starluck rc !! www.starluckrc.com
The motor mount is really solid and sells by its own around 45$. You can get the ESC/FAN mount for around 30 by itself. Or do like most of our clients and buy both for 60$ !
Please contact me by email at [email protected] if you have any questions !
Thanks !
David
http://s112.photobucket.com/albums/n178/charancon/
You will see a small video as well. I'm afraid that the FD mount would kinda hurd the fins or not be solid when using a finnned designed motor. It also seems to be limited to one motor diameter ! And the motors, don't seem to have a normal diameter when using heatsinks around them. And believe me, the heatsink is a good thing to have, no matter how efficient the motor is ! The motor I have is a Plettenberg HP220 maxximum and sells around 250-300 as well. Its got a built in fan and NEVER overheats. I also have the Quark 125B Monster as an ESC and that is very good as well. It coggs a little bit from a standing start, sometimes. But really nothing to be worried about. A VERY good reference for online brushless equipment would be starluck rc !! www.starluckrc.com
The motor mount is really solid and sells by its own around 45$. You can get the ESC/FAN mount for around 30 by itself. Or do like most of our clients and buy both for 60$ !
Please contact me by email at [email protected] if you have any questions !
Thanks !
David
09-28-2006, 04:46 AM
#18
Tech Addict
iTrader: (75)
Hey Glass,
What do you think about this setup for an MBX5?
Mamba Max(on the way)
Neu 1512 2.5d/f
(2) Maxamps 2s 6000's
UBEC
46t Kyosho spur
14t or 16t mod1 spur
I want to do the same thing you are doing.
Race competitely in at least a 15 minute main.
What do you think about this setup for an MBX5?
Mamba Max(on the way)
Neu 1512 2.5d/f
(2) Maxamps 2s 6000's
UBEC
46t Kyosho spur
14t or 16t mod1 spur
I want to do the same thing you are doing.
Race competitely in at least a 15 minute main.
09-28-2006, 02:23 PM
#19
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Paul_67
Hey Glass,
What do you think about this setup for an MBX5?
Mamba Max(on the way)
Neu 1512 2.5d/f
(2) Maxamps 2s 6000's
UBEC
46t Kyosho spur
14t or 16t mod1 spur
I want to do the same thing you are doing.
Race competitely in at least a 15 minute main.
What do you think about this setup for an MBX5?
Mamba Max(on the way)
Neu 1512 2.5d/f
(2) Maxamps 2s 6000's
UBEC
46t Kyosho spur
14t or 16t mod1 spur
I want to do the same thing you are doing.
Race competitely in at least a 15 minute main.
09-28-2006, 02:30 PM
#20
Obviously yes, but they would also provide you with more amps and more weight.
Thats what I run in mine.
Scy
Thats what I run in mine.
Scy
09-28-2006, 05:18 PM
#21
That's my setup basicly... yes it will work great imo.
15 minutes will be no problem, even with the hot laps. You should get around 20 minutes depending of course on how hooked the track is, how hard you puch it, etc.
I would say to gear it about 14/46... and a bit higher for a big flowing track. So 14-16 is right on imo.
I throw in a 18T pinion when I want to have some fun and show the potential the car has... but I havent' tried racing with that gearing so I don't what effect it will have on temps and runtime. But 18/46 is way too much fun....
15 minutes will be no problem, even with the hot laps. You should get around 20 minutes depending of course on how hooked the track is, how hard you puch it, etc.
I would say to gear it about 14/46... and a bit higher for a big flowing track. So 14-16 is right on imo.
I throw in a 18T pinion when I want to have some fun and show the potential the car has... but I havent' tried racing with that gearing so I don't what effect it will have on temps and runtime. But 18/46 is way too much fun....
09-28-2006, 05:49 PM
#22
How the heck do you manage to not overheat your controller by going to a 14 o 18 t pinion ?? My quark goes thermal without my 60mm fan and heatsinks with an 11t pinion !!
09-28-2006, 09:37 PM
#23
You could be undergeared.
09-28-2006, 09:53 PM
#24
You might need to open the quark and see if the thermal pad is not working right... threads at rcmonster forums detailing the issue.
It's been noted that if the fets don't make good contact with the case (heat sink) and it just gets real hot inside the case. Some are removing the thermal pad and using thermal epoxy/paste and other techinques to get the fets in good contact with the case.
And you might be undergeared... but that usually makes the motor run hot not the esc.
Or it might be the mighty power of the Mamba ha ha ha..... and the effeciency of the Neu motors he he he he
It's been noted that if the fets don't make good contact with the case (heat sink) and it just gets real hot inside the case. Some are removing the thermal pad and using thermal epoxy/paste and other techinques to get the fets in good contact with the case.
And you might be undergeared... but that usually makes the motor run hot not the esc.
Or it might be the mighty power of the Mamba ha ha ha..... and the effeciency of the Neu motors he he he he
09-29-2006, 07:03 AM
#25
I don't think that I would be undergeared. I have 9 to 15t pinions. The 15 thermals it with fan and heatsink in about 1min... And it gets better by dropping tooth. Problem is, if I open the quark, the warranty goes out the window... 
Scy
Scy
09-29-2006, 08:08 AM
#26
I forgot what motor you have in there...? 9L?
09-29-2006, 09:57 AM
#27
Plettenberg Maxximum with fan, hp220.
Very very nice motor. As effecient as the neu motors.
Here's a link to my buggy
http://s112.photobucket.com/albums/n178/charancon/
Scy
Very very nice motor. As effecient as the neu motors.
Here's a link to my buggy
http://s112.photobucket.com/albums/n178/charancon/
Scy
09-29-2006, 08:34 PM
#28
Weird ... I bet the controller has the heat sink no worky issue....
10-01-2006, 07:39 PM
#29
I just sent my 6.5 back to Novak because it stopped working after I siezed an outdrive bearing and overheated the motor. I didn't put 2 and 2 together until they told me that the rotor was shot because of overheating.
Maybe your motor is drawing too many amps and overheating because your rotor lost some magnatizem.
Maybe your motor is drawing too many amps and overheating because your rotor lost some magnatizem.
10-02-2006, 05:26 PM
#30
You probably don't know the plettys... Mine has a built in fan and heatsink, plus it's very good efficiency. It never got over 140f and plus, its impossible to spin the motor while just holding the shaft. The strenght of the magnets is really impressive. I'm leaning towards gearing and bad design of the quark. (not programming, more setup, mechanical)
Scy
Scy