fhm101

Hey folks...It's been a while since I raced 10th electric, the hottest cells at the time were 2400 nicads if that helps. Anyhow, our local track is trying to revive some interest in 10th scale and is having a big 10th only race in a month or so and I want to get a new electric truck to run. A while back I traded for a Losi XXX-T MF so I would have something for my nephew to run around when he comes over and it's still in excellent condition, but I don't have any idea how it stacks up with the current trucks from AE and Losi. What do you guys racing electric truck these days think is the better truck the T4 or the MF2, or can I just upgrade to current power/motors in the MF? The track is red clay and geared more to 8th buggy and truggy with some big air jumps and a kinda technical infield. We don't have but one real tight turn and its' followed by a mild chicane with the balance of the turns being either flat or banked sweepers. The thing I think I'm going to need most is rough track handling as it's got the usual ruts dug up by buggies and trucks. Also, what about batteries, mod motors, and speed controls? I've got an LRP V7.1 in the MF, but I'm only running some 3000 sport packs and from what little I've looked into current cell tech, it looks like they are up to 4400 and putting out some pretty high voltage numbers from what I remember about the cells I used to race with. Will the older ESC's handle the new cells or should I be thinking about a new ESC as well?

Sorry for the long winded post, but I'm way behind the curve on current 10th scale electric racing technology and I don't really have the time these days to put in the research to get current. PLEASE HELP!!!

Thanks in advance for any and all ideas, opinions, and knowledge you are willing to share on this.

AndyMoore

iTrader: (64)

If you have no preferences, then buy the brand that is best supported at the local track.

fhm101

Since 10th scale died out around here, neither is very well supported by the local shops. One shop used to have all Losi cars well covered, but they can't afford to keep a large stock of stuff that's not moving so they don't keep near the amount of Losi stuff they used to. If things pick up both brands should get some decent support from the shop closest to the track, but until then it's pretty much going to be an order situation for 10th scale around here.

rc pro

well the mf is still a good truck... i have 1 here... and race with it.. also have a evader st pro it is also just as good.... i have a t4 that is coming wednesday.. (cant wait till it comes) but i have a team truck.. so it comes down to what your lhs has the must parts.... as far a battery packs im going to get a 3800 mah battery pack hope to get 1 soon ... mod motors well it depends what kind of raceing you want to do... stock mod or pure mod

sepirts

fhm101,

Your MF is a good truck. Some new batts and motors are all you need to start. Stock truck on an open track leaves a lot to be desired in terms of speed. A good 19T will do you fine. If your skills are good, you should be pretty close to the average mod driver. Be carefull not to start off with a motor with tons of low end torque or donuts will be in your future.

Your LRP 7.1 has no min wind limits, so you should be able to run as low a turn motor that you can hookup with your track and your skills allow.

See if you can drive a fellow racers MF2 or T4. You wouldn't buy a full scale car without a test drive, so why not try a friends? I've found the MF2 setups are almost the same everyplace I go. The T4 seems to want a little more TLC, I guess that make the MF2 an easier drive. (Note: I did state that either is better or faster than the other). Both trucks are good, as long as you can get support from your LHS (even if it's by order only).

Get a truck that other people run, too. This way you can share setups and spares.

Nitroaddicts

iTrader: (8)

I say just go Nitro...

MrBoyd

The MF1 is still a good truck especially on blown out, large outdoor tracks. My son has been running a V7.1 with 4200 SHV cells with no troubles at all.
Good luck!

fhm101

Nitro???

I went nitro 6 years ago when electric died out, then went 8th and MT when 10th gas died out and now I'm on truggy. I just need some current info on electric so I can support my local track's effort to bring back some 10th scale.

Here's how I do nitro. Oh and BTW, the LSP is for sale. I just got an MBX5T

fhm101

Thanks for all the help folks. It looks like it will be the MF with some new juice and motors then. I knew the LRP would handle the motors, I just was not sure if the new cells might be too hot for it.

I the thing still has a race or two left in it.

Thanks again folks.

MrBoyd

Looking at your MF, there are a couple of issues that may come up...

First, the stock tie rods... Get some real Lundsford's if you start breaking or bending them.
Second, the ball cups... I run the Losi Whites with good results.
Third, front and rear ballstuds... Get the Losi Titanium studs for the front and rear bulks if you haven't already.

BSchorr

iTrader: (101)

Ya, I prefer Losi over AE. Losi MF2 has the VLA Arms, Aluminum rear pivot block, Trannyis easier to work on, I would put Losi Titanium ball studs in the rear shock tower forsure for the reason that if you snap a regular one, its a pain to change out and costly. Losi titanium tie rods are junk, get the real lunsord set.

WheelNut

iTrader: (5)

Just refresh your ol' MF. Its that not much different than the new MF2. I would pick up a 11t or 12t checkpoint motor for it. They have amazing brush/comm life. For batteries the newest cells are the Intellect Batery (IB) 4200WC cells which will be out right away, the IB4200SHV are the best cells avaliable at the moment.

fhm101

I just happen to have a set of lunsfords in the stuff I didn't sell or trade away when I quit running electric. I guess the original XXX BK was the only Losi XXX series to ever come with genuine Lunsford turnbuckles and hingepins. Sounds like not much has changed with the "hopups" Losi puts in their signature kits since the BK. I may even have some titanium ballstuds as well. If I remember right MIP (I think) used to sell the ti studs in 10 packs for a few bucks more than what the Losi 4 pack cost. I'm well versed in the ballstud situation with Losi trucks, it was one of the things I always picked up for any new NT Kit I built as running one with stock ballstuds was a fools play for sure. It was never much of an issue for me running stock electric, provided you replaced the stockers at the first and around the middle of the season. The way things are shaping up for this race though it looks like it's going to be a better mod class so I'll blow the cobwebs off what I remember about the XXX truck and start prepping for mod. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

What about good cells? Any pointers on what's good these days? I'm current on the 2/4A cells I use in my mini inferno, but I'm lost when it comes to what good sub C's are out these days. A bunch of guys I race mini's with are going to li-po, is that something thats found it's way into 10th electric yet? I'm not all that crazy about them, but if it's the best thing for 10th, I might as well do it right.

Thanks again for all the help folks.

sport10

One of the biggest improvements made in the MF2 is the durability. The only thing I have broken is ballstuds. The graphite that Losi uses in their MF2 is unsurpassed in strength. I would upgrade to the MF2 front hubs and arms just for durability. Also, the new steering rack for the new XXX-CR will fit the MF2 and is a nice steering upgrade.

skengines

iTrader: (226)

Even though I do not own a Losi, I really like AE because of their customer service. They are so nice, and replace parts without any questions.