SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

I measured with a ride height gauge then once in a while check with a Losi plastic gauge to make sure Left and right is equal, I found the losi guage very acurate.

vabroom

You'll find here:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...culator-5.html

Also if you use Win7 read the last page.

Greg Sharpe

iTrader: (15)

Yeah, props to Rui, he showed me how to measure droop this way even though he didn't explain it right. He drives better than he types. Hold the tires down with your pointy fingers, pull the shock tower up with your thumbs, and then slide the ride height gauge under a side of the chassis with a pinkie. We do it this way to take into account any subtle twists ans slop in the chassis, towers, bulkheads, arms, etc. If I could afford to replace parts non-stop, I'd use the plastic gauge. That roll center calculator is cool, huh?

Yeah close, the regular camber link with a long ball stud at the hub and in the #1 hole is almost dead nuts even with the JR link in the lower position and #3 hole on the tower. However, moving to the upper position on the JR link actually doubles the camber gain. It only works that way because the total camber gain is so small in these examples, 0.25' in the first case and 0.50' in the second case.

Our carpet is literally tacky from the Jack the Gripper sauce, so these low roll centers were just there to reduce the likelihood of traction rolling.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

I have a way with droop which gives me great results when setting tweak. I use setup wheels for rideheight and adjust for different worn rubbers. With setup wheels on I use my droop blocks (19mm high) and measure the gap between the setup wheels and the bench (setup board). Add that number too the rideheight setting. Then subtract that number from 19 and you have the droop. With the setupwheels on I can do my droop, swaybar tweak, rideheight and tweak all in one pass.

SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

Hey greg

i see you have a white bladder post it on your set up sheet. what brand is that? Tamiya? is it softer? I found a stock black one kida brittle in this weather, I was at the RC madness lastweek and a track Temp was 35F! shattered few parts in there skating.

Greg Sharpe

iTrader: (15)

The white bladders are LOSA5327, much softer than the black ones, which I didn't know were OE in the Type-R. Learn something new everyday! Dude, you broke a shock bladder? WTF!

SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

Losi makes 2diff bladders? thanks for the info

no I didnt brake a bladder even thought a black bladder felt like a piece of graphite.

I broke many other parts, in30F temp, one shot one killed.

Greg Sharpe

iTrader: (15)

The white ones might have been for the JRXS (mid-motor), although I'm too tired to get off the couch and check my parts list from that car. <---tired smiley

Yeti35

iTrader: (5)

The black ones actually came out before the Type R since I was using them in my JRXS when I still had it.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

Has anybody tried the different bladders back to back? Is there much of a difference?

I recently tested different rebound settings from extreme to zero and found no difference in feel or lap speed. I imagine that different bladders would only effect rebound?

SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

from my offroad time I alway feel diffrence of the compressions, rough track=more. smmooth track = less rebounds always helped me.

I wanted to try white one on the carpet ASAP

MaxRain

iTrader: (2)

I also noticed a difference. When I correctly set rebound to about 4mm, I achieved even better side to side weight transfer, this is without the use of sway bars. On a bumpy surface it is you don't want to use too soft of an oil, then your car will bottom out, which you don't want.

Pablo Diablo

iTrader: (3)

The Type R has a wide chassis at the front and rear. This causes it to bottom out more than other cars unless you have a heavier oil and or springs. With rubber tyres on asphalt it seems the type R runs better a lot stiffer than other cars.

Jerry P

iTrader: (44)

Hey guy's i'm looking for an RCGT setup for a Type R. Is there a good base setup out there?

Thanks
Jerry

Giorgio

iTrader: (1)

Well..... I'm back!

I was forced to stay awya form my Losi (and all related upgrade project) for job reason, but now the new season is approaching and I'll do my best to race as mcuh as possibile.

We will have a new class (for us...) using 13.5 motor (single brand, Lipotech).

I need all the ideas and suggestions from you 13.5 guys (I was 4.5 before...)

I gearing should be in the 4-5ish area. Will be worth use the 41 gears inestad of the 42 in the diff? Just to avoid pinions big as frying pans...