52LikesTeam Losi JRXS Type-R
08-25-2009, 04:53 PM
I ran the stock spool in 10.5 and 13.5 for a season at a time with NO damage to my spool, the outdrives or anything else for that matter. You do not need an after market spool that can possibly mess with the handling of your car in these classes.
A sticking spool outdrive can serverly affect the handling of a car, the outdrives were not designed to take a solid hit and will get damaged easily if the spool doesn't give like the stock one.
If you build the stock one right the first time it shouldn't give you any trouble in anything but mod.
A sticking spool outdrive can serverly affect the handling of a car, the outdrives were not designed to take a solid hit and will get damaged easily if the spool doesn't give like the stock one.
If you build the stock one right the first time it shouldn't give you any trouble in anything but mod.
I rather have a light spool tube with zero slip with some filing maintanance.
but I always like that "box stock" spirit from gold tub RC10 days.
Last edited by SweepRacingUSA; 08-25-2009 at 07:03 PM.
08-26-2009, 12:39 AM
well, everything got upside and down, I didnt want any slip at all in my spool from the beggining, I knew there were design to be slip little to protect my car but I think that little slip is kinda uncontrallable amount, tight em little too much snaps a halve, tight little less, now I dont have a spool on the corners.
I rather have a light spool tube with zero slip with some filing maintanance.
I rather have a light spool tube with zero slip with some filing maintanance.
08-26-2009, 01:30 AM
Larry I never understood why nobody listens to you in this thread. You've contributed so much to what the car is today.
Personally I love the concept of the slipper spool and find it to work perfect. Never had problems ever with it other than the first inital few runs when I realized it was too tight and broke pins/lcd couplers. We've even contemplated trying to make one for a different car since it worked so well. Love the dual d rings instead of the copper and regular diff ring. Thanks for that. I've been running the car with all losi parts other than the Parma bumper, lunsford 1' turnbuckles and mcmaster thrusts. Oh wait. You contributed most of these.
For those running the solid spool. Here ya go. Stock up. LOSA3335
Personally I love the concept of the slipper spool and find it to work perfect. Never had problems ever with it other than the first inital few runs when I realized it was too tight and broke pins/lcd couplers. We've even contemplated trying to make one for a different car since it worked so well. Love the dual d rings instead of the copper and regular diff ring. Thanks for that. I've been running the car with all losi parts other than the Parma bumper, lunsford 1' turnbuckles and mcmaster thrusts. Oh wait. You contributed most of these.
For those running the solid spool. Here ya go. Stock up. LOSA3335
08-26-2009, 03:45 AM
I've gone for the FF Spool mainly as it's a new product and something to try. The Losi spool assembly is great, never had a problem but with the car being relatively old I'm running out of things to try.
08-26-2009, 05:01 AM
Larry I never understood why nobody listens to you in this thread. You've contributed so much to what the car is today.
Personally I love the concept of the slipper spool and find it to work perfect. Never had problems ever with it other than the first inital few runs when I realized it was too tight and broke pins/lcd couplers. We've even contemplated trying to make one for a different car since it worked so well. Love the dual d rings instead of the copper and regular diff ring. Thanks for that. I've been running the car with all losi parts other than the Parma bumper, lunsford 1' turnbuckles and mcmaster thrusts. Oh wait. You contributed most of these.
For those running the solid spool. Here ya go. Stock up. LOSA3335
Personally I love the concept of the slipper spool and find it to work perfect. Never had problems ever with it other than the first inital few runs when I realized it was too tight and broke pins/lcd couplers. We've even contemplated trying to make one for a different car since it worked so well. Love the dual d rings instead of the copper and regular diff ring. Thanks for that. I've been running the car with all losi parts other than the Parma bumper, lunsford 1' turnbuckles and mcmaster thrusts. Oh wait. You contributed most of these.
For those running the solid spool. Here ya go. Stock up. LOSA3335
08-26-2009, 05:33 AM
The new FF lay shaft is a cool idea and had I not switched all my cars over to the JRXS layshaft with a PRS adapter I may have bought one. The FF spool looks cool, but I am having no issues with the stock one and will stick to that. I do agree that maybe the slipper portion of the diffs is probably not needed and I believe was developed more for Mod then stock driving. I don't know that I agree with the flex mod either and remember what Schreff told me once when I asked him about flex in the car, do they build full scale race cars with flex in the chassis? That made total sense to me.
08-26-2009, 06:58 AM
Larry I never understood why nobody listens to you in this thread. You've contributed so much to what the car is today.
Personally I love the concept of the slipper spool and find it to work perfect. Never had problems ever with it other than the first inital few runs when I realized it was too tight and broke pins/lcd couplers. We've even contemplated trying to make one for a different car since it worked so well. Love the dual d rings instead of the copper and regular diff ring. Thanks for that. I've been running the car with all losi parts other than the Parma bumper, lunsford 1' turnbuckles and mcmaster thrusts. Oh wait. You contributed most of these.
For those running the solid spool. Here ya go. Stock up. LOSA3335
Personally I love the concept of the slipper spool and find it to work perfect. Never had problems ever with it other than the first inital few runs when I realized it was too tight and broke pins/lcd couplers. We've even contemplated trying to make one for a different car since it worked so well. Love the dual d rings instead of the copper and regular diff ring. Thanks for that. I've been running the car with all losi parts other than the Parma bumper, lunsford 1' turnbuckles and mcmaster thrusts. Oh wait. You contributed most of these.
For those running the solid spool. Here ya go. Stock up. LOSA3335
. My thing is that everyone is different, it's funny but Scooby was SUPER fast w/ the car, he'd set it up for me and i'd be in the wall on the first turn. Larry is super fast with the car, I'd use his setup and be in the inside board in the first turn. That is when it dawned on me, these guys are driving at a level that I haven't gotten to yet (and may never hahaha both are friggin fast!). Slowly but surely i'm getting to understand what these changes do.
On the issue w/ flex, i am of the same mind on flex. Formula 1 cars are some of the stiffest cars on the track and they have redamdiculous levels of performance, but not all things are for all people. Xray introduced that whole idea of flex as a tuning aid and i say well, if you want to try it variety is the spice of life people get bored of the same old same old.
So I say if you like flex or want to try flex, it's nice to have the option, if you are one with your chassis and don't need it well it's nice to have the option. I like options
. The spool well i blew out quite a few screw side parts assembling them incorrectly AND running hot mod motors at the Blue Diamond. I had one that lasted for a whole season once but i had to take it apart when my spool chipped and it never went back together right. Recently i've noticed veering right on the straight under power until i changed to the FF spool. I rebuilt it with stock parts and had the same luck, so i changed to the FF spool and it goes straight now. I hit things a little less now than i used to so i'd prefer to have the lower maintenance of the FF part.
Lastly i'm terrible when it comes to maintenance and keeping up w/ some of this stuff i wrench my car and my sons car and we both run 2 or 3 classes in electric and nitro so it gets to be like work. If i can set and forget .... i'm happy
.
08-26-2009, 07:00 AM
08-26-2009, 07:24 AM
I see the aftermarket parts as the natural progression of a car that is still competitive needing some development. Its not that the factory stuff doesn't work or can't win in the right hands. At the local shop, they tear up drive cups every other run in 13.5 rubber with the factory spool adjusted properly and they still complain about inconsistent slips when its working right. It usually breaks when they get forced off the racing line or make an individual mistake and end up sideways into a barrier. Its better to strip a drive cup than sheer an axle in my opinion. I still believe this car still has what it takes to win until someone comes up with some new technology that revolutionizes the whole industry.
Last edited by liljohn1064; 08-26-2009 at 07:53 AM.
08-26-2009, 07:37 AM
Tech Apprentice
Hi all
Original spool for 10.5 and 13.5 class, probably work really great, but with hot motors like 4.0 or less...... some problem there is
ciao ciao
Original spool for 10.5 and 13.5 class, probably work really great, but with hot motors like 4.0 or less...... some problem there is
ciao ciao
08-26-2009, 07:40 AM
08-26-2009, 09:23 AM
Larry I never understood why nobody listens to you in this thread. You've contributed so much to what the car is today.
Personally I love the concept of the slipper spool and find it to work perfect. Never had problems ever with it other than the first inital few runs when I realized it was too tight and broke pins/lcd couplers. We've even contemplated trying to make one for a different car since it worked so well. Love the dual d rings instead of the copper and regular diff ring. Thanks for that. I've been running the car with all losi parts other than the Parma bumper, lunsford 1' turnbuckles and mcmaster thrusts. Oh wait. You contributed most of these.
For those running the solid spool. Here ya go. Stock up. LOSA3335
Personally I love the concept of the slipper spool and find it to work perfect. Never had problems ever with it other than the first inital few runs when I realized it was too tight and broke pins/lcd couplers. We've even contemplated trying to make one for a different car since it worked so well. Love the dual d rings instead of the copper and regular diff ring. Thanks for that. I've been running the car with all losi parts other than the Parma bumper, lunsford 1' turnbuckles and mcmaster thrusts. Oh wait. You contributed most of these.
For those running the solid spool. Here ya go. Stock up. LOSA3335
hmmm lets see, I got a Parma bumper, lunsford 1' turnbuckles and mcmaster thrusts, D ring mods on my car then I got FF fox shaft and a spool to try for myself and I liked it better.
with Larry, Jason and Mike opinion + Lucas and mine makes things lot better for me
my philosopy is you never know until see it for yourself.
no worry mates we didnt snub Larry yet. hahaha
On the issue w/ flex, i am of the same mind on flex. Formula 1 cars are some of the stiffest cars on the track and they have redamdiculous levels of performance, but not all things are for all people. Xray introduced that whole idea of flex as a tuning aid and i say well, if you want to try it variety is the spice of life people get bored of the same old same old.
So I say if you like flex or want to try flex, it's nice to have the option, if you are one with your chassis and don't need it well it's nice to have the option. I like options.
.
So I say if you like flex or want to try flex, it's nice to have the option, if you are one with your chassis and don't need it well it's nice to have the option. I like options
. .
actually flex thing came out in 70-80's, X ray didnt invent anything as far as I know.
remember RC10 box stock gold tub chassis handles better than other stiff chassis or gold chassis with a stiffners? that s when TQ tire from AE was king.
and Losi came out with flat carbon chassis with lots of flex to dominated the offroad scene (losi 5row tires then x patter was king), of cos Losi moved on to "Stiffzel" molded chassis and become standard off road chassis up to today.(thats when all these soft fuzzy, RED/proline start to showing up)
you see all this tires debut and chassis change ? There is one big cycle in RC racing scene. everything got a cycle like the fashion industry or Music, (hey Disco will come back to us soon!
)the cycle of RC trand is very connected with hide and sick game played by power source & tire company, when a new motor come out or bigger battery debut (all equal more power) tires have to get softer or better to handle that power but it takes time, for that time bieng other method of traction gain technic have to be developed by racers, such as flex chassis.
then stickier tires debut. now faster car + sticker tires=understeer car, now a stiffer chassis and smoother shcok is in order
thats the cycle of RC I been observed, and that cycle has been spin last 20 years on race track.
I think it's natural thing for all this hop up to available today, power source get better and we need to adjust our car according to that (specialy TC tire didnt get any better than 2002, or maybe got worse)
offroad chassis got stiffiest as possible till BL motor got popular than now AE packaging theere FTRC10B4 with a flexible plastic chassis instead of graphite one even thought they got softest tire that can only last a 5min race.
but for rest of us need little bit more help
Last edited by SweepRacingUSA; 08-26-2009 at 09:49 AM.
08-26-2009, 09:34 AM
Larry gives us a nice reality check once in a while. I'm sure he'd still drive this car if it paid the bills.
08-26-2009, 02:21 PM
Well on the subject of flex the jury is still out. Lucas proved that flex even on high grip equals a fast car. The fact that he had success with flex on a track that should suit a stiff car made me go out and try it ASAP. I wouldn't say it will win races for you but so far I don't think it will slow you down.
My brother took my losi for a few laps at one of our local tracks for me earlier this week. Its a painted/grip surface that has worn quite a bit so is starting to lack grip. He thought the car in flex form worked very well compared to his Cyclone in back to back runs. He currently smashes the 17.5 field at local clubbies by considerable margins so his car was a good comparison. Interesting was that he said even with the flex it still refused to give up corner speed and didn't bog down in the turns. This is with 15lbs springs all round so it isn't stiff.
Personally I am hoping that this flex works out. The chassis is so much better in some ways with the flex.
My brother took my losi for a few laps at one of our local tracks for me earlier this week. Its a painted/grip surface that has worn quite a bit so is starting to lack grip. He thought the car in flex form worked very well compared to his Cyclone in back to back runs. He currently smashes the 17.5 field at local clubbies by considerable margins so his car was a good comparison. Interesting was that he said even with the flex it still refused to give up corner speed and didn't bog down in the turns. This is with 15lbs springs all round so it isn't stiff.
Personally I am hoping that this flex works out. The chassis is so much better in some ways with the flex.
08-26-2009, 05:51 PM
I am tempted myself to try the flex mod, but I think it is better to have a proper suspension first.
I recently rebuilt my shocks with the c-ring tip that john wee uses. I took extra spacers that are used for the a-arms, cut out a piece and attached it to the shock shaft. In addition, I chose to put the orange pistons #60 on. (I don't have to worry about temps to much because we run in a moderate climate). I then set the shock length to 63mm, and 12mm distance on the shock shaft.
After filling and airing out the shock, I put the bladder on and held it in place with the back end of an exacto knife, press the shock shaft in, and then the c-rings stop the shaft from going all the way in.
Next, I place the pair of shocks on the losi shock tool, without the spring. Result, a perfect pair with rebound so close, the shocks move in unison.
As for the second pair of shocks, not the same as I discovered the orange piston was rubbing against the inside wall of the shock body. Result, un-equal rebound. So I take it apart, sand down one of the pistons, put oil back in, set rebound with the c-ring. Put it back on the shock tool, result perfect rebound...
The shock tool also works well for testing worn out springs, and 0-rings. I highly recommend it.
Lastly, I have a tip for identifying shocks. Since all the shocks are the same color, I take a silver sharpie and mark the shocks with tick marks as soon as I take them out of the package. I record the results in the manual, and I never loose track of which ones I am using. Just make sure you make the marks on an inner ring, because the markings can wear off if they make contact with the shock body or bottom spring holder.
I am hoping that all this prep will make the car more stable, I assume that it will. I commented once before that a stiff chassis is better, regardless of traction, but there are many that have opinions about this. One spot the chassis flexes is the shock tower. I never noticed this until last night, while pressing down on the chassis with the newly built shocks attached. Don't know if this affects performance, but one thing I do know is that we have the ability to use different springs, shock oils and sway bars.
My next goal is to learn how to perfect the setting of sway bars. I have tested this before, but wasn't sure if I was doing this correctly. In addition, I didn't have the shocks set correctly til now. One of the things I didn't realize is that when I lifted the car of the ground or table, the shocks springs would move/shift around. They wouldn't stay in tack with the bottom holder/shock body. This is not the case any longer, with the shocks set at 63mm.
If anyone has tips on how to properly set the sway bars, please let me know.
I recently rebuilt my shocks with the c-ring tip that john wee uses. I took extra spacers that are used for the a-arms, cut out a piece and attached it to the shock shaft. In addition, I chose to put the orange pistons #60 on. (I don't have to worry about temps to much because we run in a moderate climate). I then set the shock length to 63mm, and 12mm distance on the shock shaft.
After filling and airing out the shock, I put the bladder on and held it in place with the back end of an exacto knife, press the shock shaft in, and then the c-rings stop the shaft from going all the way in.
Next, I place the pair of shocks on the losi shock tool, without the spring. Result, a perfect pair with rebound so close, the shocks move in unison.
As for the second pair of shocks, not the same as I discovered the orange piston was rubbing against the inside wall of the shock body. Result, un-equal rebound. So I take it apart, sand down one of the pistons, put oil back in, set rebound with the c-ring. Put it back on the shock tool, result perfect rebound...
The shock tool also works well for testing worn out springs, and 0-rings. I highly recommend it.
Lastly, I have a tip for identifying shocks. Since all the shocks are the same color, I take a silver sharpie and mark the shocks with tick marks as soon as I take them out of the package. I record the results in the manual, and I never loose track of which ones I am using. Just make sure you make the marks on an inner ring, because the markings can wear off if they make contact with the shock body or bottom spring holder.
I am hoping that all this prep will make the car more stable, I assume that it will. I commented once before that a stiff chassis is better, regardless of traction, but there are many that have opinions about this. One spot the chassis flexes is the shock tower. I never noticed this until last night, while pressing down on the chassis with the newly built shocks attached. Don't know if this affects performance, but one thing I do know is that we have the ability to use different springs, shock oils and sway bars.
My next goal is to learn how to perfect the setting of sway bars. I have tested this before, but wasn't sure if I was doing this correctly. In addition, I didn't have the shocks set correctly til now. One of the things I didn't realize is that when I lifted the car of the ground or table, the shocks springs would move/shift around. They wouldn't stay in tack with the bottom holder/shock body. This is not the case any longer, with the shocks set at 63mm.
If anyone has tips on how to properly set the sway bars, please let me know.