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Old 10-23-2006, 08:07 PM
  #346  
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Now that I'm a working man again, i think my next major rc purchase is going to be a 3200 lipo pack(or 4800 if i can find one for cheap, though will they fit into tamiya chassis' designed for stickpacks, like the m-chassis?). i'm pretty interested in the cheaper avionics charger, but i dont have a DC power supply handy, is there a cheap DC power supply alternative for it? or perhaps an ac version of it?
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Old 10-23-2006, 08:13 PM
  #347  
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Here is the 3200 in the xray T2. I took out the battery corner things (I don't know what they're called?) and it fit perfectly.

Sorry for the suck camera phone pic. You get the idea though.

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Old 10-23-2006, 08:51 PM
  #348  
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Originally Posted by SSJChar
Now that I'm a working man again, i think my next major rc purchase is going to be a 3200 lipo pack(or 4800 if i can find one for cheap, though will they fit into tamiya chassis' designed for stickpacks, like the m-chassis?). i'm pretty interested in the cheaper avionics charger, but i dont have a DC power supply handy, is there a cheap DC power supply alternative for it? or perhaps an ac version of it?
The 4800 will fit most tamiya kits with minor dremeling of the battery brackets. Wont fit the mini chassis though coz the slot is rounded. Get the 3200 if you want to use it on your mini.
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Old 10-23-2006, 09:01 PM
  #349  
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its actually for a ta03f pro, which i guess i should have said instead of the mchassis since its probably designed differently, but ya, it probably will still have the same problem, so ill stick to the 3200 as my lipo choice.
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Old 10-24-2006, 07:59 AM
  #350  
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Some cars will still require slight modifications to the battery mounting mechanisms but for the most part the 3200 will fit in every car. We are still in a state of compromise. Once batteries are legalized for competition, the sales number should increase and we can become more specific with designs for different applications. Right now we still have to look at the big picture and design based on what works in most cars.

LiPo is gaining accpetance and people are realizing that the batteries are as safe as NiMH. You may see a big announcement from the prominent race series about LiPo legality in the near future.

There are also talks about changin some of the competion rules so that 4 cells will become the standard rather than 6 cells. This will mean that LiPo will have no place in the standard racing structure. As hard as it is to get LiPo integrated into racing, it will be impossible if the battery rule is changed. So make sure you fight to keep 6-cell the norm as this is the only chance to make LiPo the future standard.
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Old 10-24-2006, 10:38 AM
  #351  
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Hey Rick,

I am right on board with the whole 4 cell debate...........
But I think what could save Lipo is the regulators.
They have them for 1V through 6V for lots of applications.
I am using the 6V on my Lipo receiver packs in my Truggy, 12th scale and Xray 12th scale TC.
They work great and aren't that expencive.
I know 4X 1.2V is only 4.8V but I think someone could make a regulator to maybe make 5V which would not only work but heck make huge runtime.
Now I am not making excuses for the the whole 4 cell thing, as I think it is major step backward in the hobby.
All the cars/truck/buggies are already setup for 6 cell, to go and mess with it would be a travisty. But it the sanctioning bodies have to mess, I think Lipo would still have a place. Lets just hope that the 4cell thing dies out before someone actually makes it a rule...
I know peeps will be looking to make their cars faster even with 4cell (i.e. 3 & 4T motors) simply put RETARDED thinking..
-Shookie <><
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Old 10-24-2006, 11:01 AM
  #352  
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A regulator would work. It would be more complicated than one for a receiver battery because of the increased current, but it is a possibility.
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Old 10-24-2006, 11:05 AM
  #353  
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart
A regulator would work. It would be more complicated than one for a receiver battery because of the increased current, but it is a possibility.
Yea that was my only thought about it.
Maybe a regulator with some sort of fet control to allow for all the current and low IR to not get lost inside of the regulator. Wouldn't want to loose the benifits of LIPO either way.
I am just trying to lay enough lead/brass weights on my car to keep everything nice and balanced as these 3200 lipo's are nuts.
-Shookie <><
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Old 10-24-2006, 11:14 AM
  #354  
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Originally Posted by flying G.E.O.
The 4800 will fit most tamiya kits with minor dremeling of the battery brackets. Wont fit the mini chassis though coz the slot is rounded. Get the 3200 if you want to use it on your mini.
The 3200 doesn't fit on mini chassis and TL01 too. (I have tried already)
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Old 10-24-2006, 11:18 AM
  #355  
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The 3200 DOES fit in ALL M-Chassis. I have personally run it and put into several other people's Mini's and TLO-1's and F2-01's to show them how easily it fits. If the 3200 does not then that would meam any stick pack larger then a 3300 would not fit as well as they carry the same shape and dimension?

How where you trying to put it in?
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Old 10-26-2006, 09:41 PM
  #356  
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This may a dumb question but I'd rather ask and be safe. Per the quote below from the instruction insert if I use the pack at all, even for 30 seconds, and then let it rest does it need to be recharged before using again? Or does this only pertain to running down the pack until the motor looses power or you hit the cut-off?

NOTE: If your electronic speed controller allows, set the cut-off to 6.0v. If not, stop driving when your motor loses power, remove the
battery from the car, and recharge it. NEVER let the battery rest for a few minutes and then continue driving without first re-charging.
Hopefully that's clear.
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Old 10-27-2006, 03:27 AM
  #357  
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Originally Posted by SlamMan
Or does this only pertain to running down the pack until the motor looses power or you hit the cut-off?
I would guess that they mean don't drive again after it has hit the cutoff once.

Cells regain voltage after resting for a short while, but there isn't actually any more energy in there.

I've seen lots of beginners getting their sub-C powered cars around one more lap by pumping the throttle of a car that is already so flat it comes to a standstill at every corner.

This hurts sub-C's, so could be dangerous with Lipo.

You may get an official clarification though.
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Old 10-27-2006, 06:41 AM
  #358  
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Originally Posted by SlamMan
Or does this only pertain to running down the pack until the motor looses power or you hit the cut-off?
This is correct.
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Old 10-27-2006, 07:09 AM
  #359  
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That's good news. Thanks for the info guys.
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Old 10-27-2006, 11:11 AM
  #360  
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It would be nice to have somebody having tried them to comment !
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