TB-o1 rally suspension lift 'trick'
01-09-2003, 05:58 PM
#1
TB-o1 rally suspension lift 'trick'
I noticed the suspension on my TB-o1 99 rally impreza bottoms out with the wheels actually raised above the body(bottom of tire higher than the bottom of the frame). I simply flipped over the rear 'suspension mount'*( I haven't gotten all the "lingo " down yet) so it formed an 'n' instead of a 'u', and remounted the shocks. Uncompressed, or at least with only the body weight on it, the rear now sits a good 75-100mm higher(more clearance) and now completely compressed the tire bottom is about 75mm below the frame, versus the 25mm inside/past the frame stock.
In short the: The rear suspension is moved to a point where it is actually 100% useful versus a max of about 75% compression it could attain in it's stock form. BTW FWIW this would work a little better with 2 longer screws(same thread as the MA2's, about 1cm longer) and 2 washers.
By looking at the change in height versus the 'lever arm' distance from the center of gravity, I don't think this will have any adverse effects on driving/cornering(or at least not enough to be noticed offroad).
In short the: The rear suspension is moved to a point where it is actually 100% useful versus a max of about 75% compression it could attain in it's stock form. BTW FWIW this would work a little better with 2 longer screws(same thread as the MA2's, about 1cm longer) and 2 washers.
By looking at the change in height versus the 'lever arm' distance from the center of gravity, I don't think this will have any adverse effects on driving/cornering(or at least not enough to be noticed offroad).
01-10-2003, 05:52 AM
#2
Well, it will change the handling.
A car that's 3 inches higher off the ground will have noticeably worse cornering ability, and stability.
With a rally car, you're putting the driveshafts and suspension at extreme angles, which may well cause the driveshafts to pop out.
And now, when the car lands hard and bottoms out, all the forces will go through the shocks and shock mounts, whereas before it would go through the whole of the cars chassis.
A car that's 3 inches higher off the ground will have noticeably worse cornering ability, and stability.
With a rally car, you're putting the driveshafts and suspension at extreme angles, which may well cause the driveshafts to pop out.
And now, when the car lands hard and bottoms out, all the forces will go through the shocks and shock mounts, whereas before it would go through the whole of the cars chassis.
01-10-2003, 08:30 PM
#3
3 inches?
Do you mean to 3" to scale?
The mod I did only alters the cars suspension by a centimeter(100mm) or less
-
"With a rally car, you're putting the driveshafts and suspension at extreme angles, which may well cause the driveshafts to pop out."
-
I only altered the rear suspension, which sits lower than the front to begin with, now the rear driveshafts only extend / bend about as far as the front ones do, and since they use the same axles/cups it shouldn't be a problem.
As for bottoming out, ideally the suspension would essentially end at the point where the wheels are levels with the frame, allthough unless you are doing huge jumps the suspension should be able to handle it. As for shock, I'd rather have it go through the shocks than through my servos/motor/ etc located in the body.
I drove it today and it handles almost identically as it did before(since the rate of the suspension remains the same and CG is only altered slightly , this is not suprising) including amount of tail "hang" and drift. I also pulled the small c-clamps off the rear to level it off a litlle. I'll post pics as soon as I find a way to get my Sony digicam to work with my Mac.
The mod I did only alters the cars suspension by a centimeter(100mm) or less
-
"With a rally car, you're putting the driveshafts and suspension at extreme angles, which may well cause the driveshafts to pop out."
-
I only altered the rear suspension, which sits lower than the front to begin with, now the rear driveshafts only extend / bend about as far as the front ones do, and since they use the same axles/cups it shouldn't be a problem.
As for bottoming out, ideally the suspension would essentially end at the point where the wheels are levels with the frame, allthough unless you are doing huge jumps the suspension should be able to handle it. As for shock, I'd rather have it go through the shocks than through my servos/motor/ etc located in the body.
I drove it today and it handles almost identically as it did before(since the rate of the suspension remains the same and CG is only altered slightly , this is not suprising) including amount of tail "hang" and drift. I also pulled the small c-clamps off the rear to level it off a litlle. I'll post pics as soon as I find a way to get my Sony digicam to work with my Mac.
01-11-2003, 05:32 AM
#4
Well you confused me there - when talking about dimensions on the car, don't use the scale ones, use the real ones.
10mm shouldn't make too much difference.
10mm shouldn't make too much difference.
01-11-2003, 10:34 AM
#5
Sorry for the Confusion
I didn't mean to upscale the measurements. I just mislabeled everything as millimeters. I was thinking there were 100mm in a cm..... I was wondering where you got 3 inches from. my fault
Just talked to Sony turns out I have to return my camera, as there drivers are incompatable
Just talked to Sony turns out I have to return my camera, as there drivers are incompatable
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