AKSHUN

You cant go wrong with a 35 plus 21, especially a Murnan, i have heard good things about them , the Ninja is also good, both have awesome power, but id put my money on the Murnan.

fulcrum2

Hi there!

My dealer just offered me a Ninja for a reasonable price. The engine is from a batch that has been delivered last summer and it is since then sitting on the shelf.

Here are my questions:

Have there been any enhancements for the newer batches?

I've heared that some racers destroyed their Ninjas because of a low head clearance from the factory. What is the correct clearance for 25% nitro? 0,6mm like on the Novarossis?

Anything else I need to know or to be aware of?


Thank you very much for looking into this. Always very friendly and helpful racers around here!

THE DOCTOR

iTrader: (15)

I have heard that the new ones come with a new con rod and other bearings.

AKSHUN

I'm not sure what the exact head clearance would be, but apparently, the new ones have a little "A" engraved into the cooling head, right next to the R01.

victorcho

Can someone give me an unbiased opinion about the driveability of Mugen MRX4-R Ver II versus Kyosho Evolva 2005? Someone who has both cars can be very helpful to offer an opinion. I am buying a used one on the market to get in 1/8 and it seems like both are very competitive.

gashuffer

iTrader: (48)

Both cars are very good but you should go to the local track and see what everyone else runs and check your LHS to see what cars and parts they have available. Good Luck and don't forget to bring a dust pan

Lil Paul

I agree. Both cars are excellent. With that being said, you should survey your LHS, and local racers to see whats more popular. It is more difficult to run a car that no one else is running. Unless you have every part you would ever need, then not having resources will make racing fustrating. I actually had an Evolva, and now I run the Mugen. I gave up the Evolva because I was an early adopter, and back then parts availability was a problem. I brought the Mugen, and it is a wonderful car that is well supported when it comes to parts, and many of my fellow racers run MRX's. However, I dont sleep on the Evolvas.

cdelong

iTrader: (12)

If it's a good deal get it. Just check the piston to head clearance and set it to 0.026"- 0.028". Be prepared to buy a pack of 0.1mm shims.

I measure my clearance in US vs. Metric, but I believe you'd get something like 0.004" for every 0.1mm........ so 0.028" would be 0.7mm clearance. For most conditions (besides sea level + 95% humidity), 0.7mm would generally be good for up to 30%.

choisan

iTrader: (6)

i have owned both cars. I especially bought an used Evolva to compare after i bought a brand new Mugen. Below are just my "opinions".

Both cars were good handling. My feeling is that, Mugen parts(plastic) is much more durable to last and to keep its performance.

Evolva's is also very good to give handling when it is fresh and new, but i certainly felt the difference after i had a couple runs. It's required to refresh more often. And i did need to change to front CVD to mugen's for better and easy removel of front wheel. Plently of options. I sold it finally.

On the other hand, i do not have the same problem on my MRX4, even i have wasted a lot of the unused new parts after i upgraded mine to MRX4R. This car doesn't need a lot of options to upgrade, probably only front Kawahara's upper arm mount. This is my only changed option. Rear Sway Bar and 1 piece engine mount is only for preference only. I am still using the original. Not having so much of the after market options for this car. It is so good out of the the box.

Of course I agree, the parts supplies at your LHS is really an issue.
But make sure you buy either a Evolva 2005 WC version or MRX4R. Then you do not need spend further to upgrade it. Have fun and enjoy 1/8.

victorcho

Thank you to all of you for giving very valuable opinions. I think I am leaning towards MRX4-R

straightaway

iTrader: (52)

what is the diff btwn MRX4R Ver 2 and Ver 1 or is there such a thing? Thanks

choisan

iTrader: (6)

if i am mot mistaken, the ver2 has the option chassis.

victorcho

Based on the website at www.mugenseiki.com:

The contents of MRX4-R has been changed and new version is coming!

+ Optional Chassis <H0474>
H0474 Chassis (Optional) is now as standard for MRX4-R.

+ Front Upright <H0139-B>
The position of steering arm was lowered by 4mm. Then, it can be adjusted using different type of spacer (H0181A - D).
Wheel offset can be adjusted using H0268 Axle washers.

MRX4-R New Version Spare Parts
P/N Description
H0139-B Front Upright
H0181A 3mm Spacer 0.5mm (10 pcs.)
H0181B 3mm Spacer 1.0mm (10 pcs.)
H0181C 3mm Spacer 2.0mm (10 pcs.)
H0181D 3mm Spacer 3.0mm (10 pcs.)
H0268* Axle Washer (4 pcs.)
H0474 Chassis

AKSHUN

Just out of curiosity, where does everyone place the droop guage when measuring droop in the rear.
i have heard two different ways, one is to put the guage right under the center of the upright, and the other was under one of the cups, where the pivot ball goes.
there is a couple mm difference, just wanna make sure im setting up the car properly.

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

hey guys
i just want to know where good / cheap place is to buy tires from? im from australia so the have to do online order international.

here in australia we pay about $50au a set($40us)