Losi Truggy
10-13-2007, 04:05 PM
#706
Im going to be owner of a 8t. I have heard there are 4-5 things you have to do to it to make it true race ready and Im wondering what they are? Also what are most of you guys running in the diffs as far as fluid? Im completly new to truggy, Im going to be buying some premount proline tires and it says 1/2 inch offset or standard wheels. Which should I get and why? Thanks, sorry for the newbie questions
10-14-2007, 12:41 PM
#708
You don't HAVE to do a lot of stuff to make it race ready. That's why they call it the Race Roller. LOL. If you are talking about bullet proofing there is not much to do.
1. Some people put lexan/extra foam in the bottom of the battery box cause they hade problems with the plastic screw boss breaking the battery.
2. Outer tie rod ends will pop off (like they are designed to do) after tagging pipes or walls. I am one of those people and there is a captured rod end mod. I used the 6.6mm inner steering balls (A6050), a 5-40X1/2" screw, and 5-40 washer.
3. The next weak link will be the front inner hinge pin plastic cover. I put an aluminum plate from King Headz on.
4. For convenience a quick change engine mount makes life simple. Clutch maintenance/tuning is easier. Losi and several others make a QC mount and they are expenisve but worth it.
5. For the diffs the stock oil works great. some people like a certain feel to their stuff and they change it to suit their needs. but the stock setup works well enough to not need to mess with it.
6. The Losi rims are 1/2" offset. some tires need the beads trimmed down to fit in the bead of the rims. Proline tires fit well for me. It was a little difficult to get the tires over the rims but when they are on they are sweet. A friend of mine had to modify the GRP tire beads to fit in the Losi rims.
Other than these simple steps the truck is very bullet proof. Never hear about broken arms, bent shock shafts or shock towers, hardly anything breaks. Just be sure to space the servos off of the chassis and set the EPA's and the truck will be awesome.
1. Some people put lexan/extra foam in the bottom of the battery box cause they hade problems with the plastic screw boss breaking the battery.
2. Outer tie rod ends will pop off (like they are designed to do) after tagging pipes or walls. I am one of those people and there is a captured rod end mod. I used the 6.6mm inner steering balls (A6050), a 5-40X1/2" screw, and 5-40 washer.
3. The next weak link will be the front inner hinge pin plastic cover. I put an aluminum plate from King Headz on.
4. For convenience a quick change engine mount makes life simple. Clutch maintenance/tuning is easier. Losi and several others make a QC mount and they are expenisve but worth it.
5. For the diffs the stock oil works great. some people like a certain feel to their stuff and they change it to suit their needs. but the stock setup works well enough to not need to mess with it.
6. The Losi rims are 1/2" offset. some tires need the beads trimmed down to fit in the bead of the rims. Proline tires fit well for me. It was a little difficult to get the tires over the rims but when they are on they are sweet. A friend of mine had to modify the GRP tire beads to fit in the Losi rims.
Other than these simple steps the truck is very bullet proof. Never hear about broken arms, bent shock shafts or shock towers, hardly anything breaks. Just be sure to space the servos off of the chassis and set the EPA's and the truck will be awesome.
10-14-2007, 12:56 PM
#709
Tech Regular
I have been running 55 pistons and 35wt in the front and 40wt in the rear shocks.It feels really balanced over the stock setup to me.
10-15-2007, 05:31 AM
#711
alright i just got my 8ight-t and the thing hammers just threw my radio tray and engine set up out my buggy in it for now.
first truggy so im not quite sure what to look out for on em .
anyway after readin what needs to be done on em i cant find the captured tie-rod ends anywhere.
can somone link me to some.
also is there anything else that needs to be done apprt from those few things listed above.
and what servos should i get for it, i got a jr ds 8745 steerin it now and that does the job but its gota go back in the buggy.
i been lookin at gettin a JR Z9000T for the steering, will this be fine in a truggy? if not which one should i get
and for the throttle ill just get one to match the steering one
first truggy so im not quite sure what to look out for on em .
anyway after readin what needs to be done on em i cant find the captured tie-rod ends anywhere.
can somone link me to some.
also is there anything else that needs to be done apprt from those few things listed above.
and what servos should i get for it, i got a jr ds 8745 steerin it now and that does the job but its gota go back in the buggy.
i been lookin at gettin a JR Z9000T for the steering, will this be fine in a truggy? if not which one should i get
and for the throttle ill just get one to match the steering one
10-15-2007, 09:27 AM
#712
Tech Regular
Noah and I were cracking up at that one too Chris.
10-18-2007, 01:35 AM
#715
hi all losi truggy owner
hi to all losi truggy owner.
does any1 here faces a burn servo with their 8t?
parts like arm n linkages wear n tear extremely fast??
kindly advice me on this. i m quite keen in geting one. thanks
does any1 here faces a burn servo with their 8t?
parts like arm n linkages wear n tear extremely fast??
kindly advice me on this. i m quite keen in geting one. thanks
10-18-2007, 10:41 AM
#716
Parts breakage!?! I wouldn't know where to begin. I haven't broke anything yet. It's hard to resist buying spare arms for some people. But I drive the buggy also and have never broke an arms on it. so I didn't buy any for the T. I can describe this truck a bulletproof (check post #708). You just need to spend time cleaning, inspecting clutch shoes/bearings, driving, having fun. I think this truck would be a good addition for most people.
10-18-2007, 02:46 PM
#717
I recieved My 8T today and went to my LHS to buy me a Lipopack.
The shop did not have the right size so I ended up with 2 humppacks.
I gues no problem for me. Then the man asked me if I brought the car with me and I sad yes I did. He asked me to take it and bring it in. So I did within 2 min the car was a showtopic and a counter Queen. All the people at the shop wanted to see it and they all liked it. Since I inported it it is one of the first in my country and I think I am the first to race it in the Truggy cup in my country.
So far I like it fery mutch I am going to test it on the 11th of november on the beatch.
I hope I have all my hop up parts by then.
mzl Hellsavage
The shop did not have the right size so I ended up with 2 humppacks.
I gues no problem for me. Then the man asked me if I brought the car with me and I sad yes I did. He asked me to take it and bring it in. So I did within 2 min the car was a showtopic and a counter Queen. All the people at the shop wanted to see it and they all liked it. Since I inported it it is one of the first in my country and I think I am the first to race it in the Truggy cup in my country.
So far I like it fery mutch I am going to test it on the 11th of november on the beatch.
I hope I have all my hop up parts by then.
mzl Hellsavage
10-18-2007, 05:10 PM
#718
Damn Hellsavage. Why wait so long to test it? I had mine running in a few hours around my house. I was too anxious. LOL. Man, you have a lot of self control. HE He Ha Ha.
I like Lipo in my vehicles. At first there is not much difference. But after being in the race for 10-15 min. the constant performance became noticeable to me. These lipos w/regulator provide very consistent servos and it helps very much to be consistent around the track.
Enjoy your truck, bud.
I like Lipo in my vehicles. At first there is not much difference. But after being in the race for 10-15 min. the constant performance became noticeable to me. These lipos w/regulator provide very consistent servos and it helps very much to be consistent around the track.
Enjoy your truck, bud.
10-18-2007, 07:21 PM
#719
i wil be using the sanwa/ airtronics servos. i think its cal the vz. its capable of 13kg output. so i assume tat its wil not be a big problem. however the guy who told me he burned such servo ,(4 high torque servos in fact). duno how true it is and he told me bout significant wear compare to mugen or kyosho.
again i wonder it it true.
i hav read the post 708. its useful to me. thanks my friend. that will make finalise either mugen mbx5t prospec or the losi 8t. mmmm stil thinking.
mugen is more costly. losi 8t is nice to get as it new design.. cheersss
again i wonder it it true.
i hav read the post 708. its useful to me. thanks my friend. that will make finalise either mugen mbx5t prospec or the losi 8t. mmmm stil thinking.
mugen is more costly. losi 8t is nice to get as it new design.. cheersss
For the servos, you just need to make sure to use good quality servos. Not the lower priced ones just to get by. You'll end up buying more of the lower priced ones. This goes for most 8th scale racing. With the 8T make sure to use the plastic servo spacers in the box to keep the servos off the chassis. The chassis is milled in several areas to let parts sit lower as well as reduce weight. Under the servos are milled out sections, there should be a slight gap between the chassis and bottom of the servo.
Parts breakage!?! I wouldn't know where to begin. I haven't broke anything yet. It's hard to resist buying spare arms for some people. But I drive the buggy also and have never broke an arms on it. so I didn't buy any for the T. I can describe this truck a bulletproof (check post #708). You just need to spend time cleaning, inspecting clutch shoes/bearings, driving, having fun. I think this truck would be a good addition for most people.
Parts breakage!?! I wouldn't know where to begin. I haven't broke anything yet. It's hard to resist buying spare arms for some people. But I drive the buggy also and have never broke an arms on it. so I didn't buy any for the T. I can describe this truck a bulletproof (check post #708). You just need to spend time cleaning, inspecting clutch shoes/bearings, driving, having fun. I think this truck would be a good addition for most people.
10-18-2007, 07:35 PM
#720
I understand having reservations about the 8T. A lot of people just don't understand the stress the servos go through. It's a big load. Anyways, the throttle servo needs to pull the carb as straight out as possible. All 8th scale vehicles need this done. The linkage needs to pull/push the carb straight in and out. Having a side load or binding of the carb can wear the servo out very fast.
On my 8-T, I burned two good servos before I realized the servos were not off the chassis far enough. I only had about half of one millimeter of clearance. 8th scale chassis will flex enough to hurt the servos with small clearances like this. I mean, someone could buy a super torque, all metal servo, and still kill it in one or two tanks if the setup is incorrect. Servos are not designed or built for improper setup.
In any 8th scale racing the servos need proper End Point Adjustments (EPA), proper alignment, and proper clearance, as well as proper voltage. Lipos without regulators can hurt the servos also. Sorry for the long post, but the more info the better in my opinion.
On my 8-T, I burned two good servos before I realized the servos were not off the chassis far enough. I only had about half of one millimeter of clearance. 8th scale chassis will flex enough to hurt the servos with small clearances like this. I mean, someone could buy a super torque, all metal servo, and still kill it in one or two tanks if the setup is incorrect. Servos are not designed or built for improper setup.
In any 8th scale racing the servos need proper End Point Adjustments (EPA), proper alignment, and proper clearance, as well as proper voltage. Lipos without regulators can hurt the servos also. Sorry for the long post, but the more info the better in my opinion.