Team Orion CRF Wasp Rev X-Dyno results
04-05-2007, 09:26 PM
#1051
Tech Regular
Well, I've run the motor for two races so far. Im pretty satisfied with the motor, tunning the motor hasn't been a real challenge yet, but its been running very fine. Last race I ran it well, and I think I can still go leaner, the only slight weirdness i was having was the high gurgling sound at idle indicating (on a regular motor) that your running too hot, tho I temped my motor when it runs like that, and its only at 250 or so. I've been getting that on my motor, but a few blips on the throttle and it goes away. Im pretty sure leaning out the low speed will make it go away, cause I tried richening it and it bogs. so other way. 
one thing though, Its very different in the engagement of the clutch, so I have to really adjust the way I throtle on the radio. I cant gradually accelerate because there is nothing for the clutch to grab onto yet, its weird, but im getting there. Oh, one tip is you should really be adjusting your head shims. im running 20% mugen fuel, and I HAD to take out the .1mm shim, leaving a total of .2mm. with all the shims, I could not lean out the motor to make decent power without breaking the 260 degrees. RMDHawaii, did you adjust your shims?
one thing though, Its very different in the engagement of the clutch, so I have to really adjust the way I throtle on the radio. I cant gradually accelerate because there is nothing for the clutch to grab onto yet, its weird, but im getting there. Oh, one tip is you should really be adjusting your head shims. im running 20% mugen fuel, and I HAD to take out the .1mm shim, leaving a total of .2mm. with all the shims, I could not lean out the motor to make decent power without breaking the 260 degrees. RMDHawaii, did you adjust your shims?
04-05-2007, 10:22 PM
#1052
I did not adjust my shims. I'm running 30% O'Donnell with either a 6 or 7 plug, depending on how it's running. I know that Justin is running O'Donnell, but I think he is running 20%. You would have to check with him.
When I had my clutch nut at 0.8mm, I had gradual acceleration. I've been running it at 1.2mm this year, but it generates way too much wheel spin, so I'm switching back to 0.8mm - although most people in here would not recommend that setting.
BTW... Did you see Nano's post about Byron's?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...on#post3050210
When I had my clutch nut at 0.8mm, I had gradual acceleration. I've been running it at 1.2mm this year, but it generates way too much wheel spin, so I'm switching back to 0.8mm - although most people in here would not recommend that setting.
BTW... Did you see Nano's post about Byron's?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...on#post3050210
04-05-2007, 11:51 PM
#1053
Just ordered 2 of the new CRF Wasp Rev Discovery Sets.
Seeing that the engine has been through its initial sales and has had some revisions i thought now would be the time to give it a try.
Saw this link on Redrc and it looks like a bargain at the price
http://www.redrc.net/2007/04/crf-was...discovery-set/
Seeing that the engine has been through its initial sales and has had some revisions i thought now would be the time to give it a try.
Saw this link on Redrc and it looks like a bargain at the price
http://www.redrc.net/2007/04/crf-was...discovery-set/
04-06-2007, 01:04 AM
#1054
Originally Posted by Quark
Well, I've run the motor for two races so far. Im pretty satisfied with the motor, tunning the motor hasn't been a real challenge yet, but its been running very fine. Last race I ran it well, and I think I can still go leaner, the only slight weirdness i was having was the high gurgling sound at idle indicating (on a regular motor) that your running too hot, tho I temped my motor when it runs like that, and its only at 250 or so. I've been getting that on my motor, but a few blips on the throttle and it goes away. Im pretty sure leaning out the low speed will make it go away, cause I tried richening it and it bogs. so other way. one thing though, Its very different in the engagement of the clutch, so I have to really adjust the way I throtle on the radio. I cant gradually accelerate because there is nothing for the clutch to grab onto yet, its weird, but im getting there. Oh, one tip is you should really be adjusting your head shims. im running 20% mugen fuel, and I HAD to take out the .1mm shim, leaving a total of .2mm. with all the shims, I could not lean out the motor to make decent power without breaking the 260 degrees. RMDHawaii, did you adjust your shims?
one thing though, Its very different in the engagement of the clutch, so I have to really adjust the way I throtle on the radio. I cant gradually accelerate because there is nothing for the clutch to grab onto yet, its weird, but im getting there. Oh, one tip is you should really be adjusting your head shims. im running 20% mugen fuel, and I HAD to take out the .1mm shim, leaving a total of .2mm. with all the shims, I could not lean out the motor to make decent power without breaking the 260 degrees. RMDHawaii, did you adjust your shims?
04-06-2007, 03:48 AM
#1056
Tech Regular
LoL I actually got the name from physics, you know, the sub atomic particles smaller then a electron. but anyways, that gave me a good laugh.
RMDhawaii, yeah, I read the Byron fuel thing, but we don't have it here do we? I use the Mugen fuel, I dunno, I've tried Odonell before and it used to be really strong on the chemicals and stuff, the smoke stings your eyes way more then any other fuel, and it leaves this yellow crap on all the surfaces, so yeah, I never liked it. Wow, I dunno what clutch parts your running, but my spring preload is different. Im using stock kyosho clutch with drilled out weights and the red evolva spring, with a preload of like 2.2mm or so. yes its a little hard to control with such a late engagement, but I've been making up for it in the radio. setting the throttle acceleration to the point where the clutch engages. I'll probably play with the clutch some more, see what i can do.
RMDhawaii, yeah, I read the Byron fuel thing, but we don't have it here do we? I use the Mugen fuel, I dunno, I've tried Odonell before and it used to be really strong on the chemicals and stuff, the smoke stings your eyes way more then any other fuel, and it leaves this yellow crap on all the surfaces, so yeah, I never liked it.
Wow, I dunno what clutch parts your running, but my spring preload is different. Im using stock kyosho clutch with drilled out weights and the red evolva spring, with a preload of like 2.2mm or so. yes its a little hard to control with such a late engagement, but I've been making up for it in the radio. setting the throttle acceleration to the point where the clutch engages. I'll probably play with the clutch some more, see what i can do.
04-06-2007, 05:23 AM
#1057
Originally Posted by Quark
LoL I actually got the name from physics, you know, the sub atomic particles smaller then a electron. but anyways, that gave me a good laugh.
RMDhawaii, yeah, I read the Byron fuel thing, but we don't have it here do we? I use the Mugen fuel, I dunno, I've tried Odonell before and it used to be really strong on the chemicals and stuff, the smoke stings your eyes way more then any other fuel, and it leaves this yellow crap on all the surfaces, so yeah, I never liked it. Wow, I dunno what clutch parts your running, but my spring preload is different. Im using stock kyosho clutch with drilled out weights and the red evolva spring, with a preload of like 2.2mm or so. yes its a little hard to control with such a late engagement, but I've been making up for it in the radio. setting the throttle acceleration to the point where the clutch engages. I'll probably play with the clutch some more, see what i can do.
RMDhawaii, yeah, I read the Byron fuel thing, but we don't have it here do we? I use the Mugen fuel, I dunno, I've tried Odonell before and it used to be really strong on the chemicals and stuff, the smoke stings your eyes way more then any other fuel, and it leaves this yellow crap on all the surfaces, so yeah, I never liked it.
Wow, I dunno what clutch parts your running, but my spring preload is different. Im using stock kyosho clutch with drilled out weights and the red evolva spring, with a preload of like 2.2mm or so. yes its a little hard to control with such a late engagement, but I've been making up for it in the radio. setting the throttle acceleration to the point where the clutch engages. I'll probably play with the clutch some more, see what i can do.Wow! You did a lot to your clutch setup. I'm just using the stock RRR clutch parts, radio at 100%. I'm not sure how much you're off throttle or braking, but I'm doing quite a bit of both. I like the way 0.8mm spools up and if I need some extra speed, I just punch it. Good thing our races are short and we're not running full-throttle all the time, otherwise I think I would have some serious problems.
You're making me really want to race the CRF next time around, but I still want to get in one more race with the MTX-4/TZ before I switch back to the RRR/STI. I will be doing some setup and engine testing with the RRR/CRF in open practice - so if you want to feel how it drives, just let me know.
04-07-2007, 09:45 AM
#1058
Nano
Whats the exhaust timing for the CRF? I need to know so I calculate the tuned pipe length
Cheers
Whats the exhaust timing for the CRF? I need to know so I calculate the tuned pipe length
Cheers
04-07-2007, 11:10 AM
#1059
04-07-2007, 01:59 PM
#1060
163 deg?? Jeez that makes the tuned pipe length around 7.2" for 37,000 rpm or the pipe I have got is tuned to 48,000 RPM.
04-07-2007, 05:03 PM
#1061
Best Pipe an Header
The pipe that gives you ,i think the best all around power is the 2630 novaroosi fatpipe,with novarossi ,short or medium conical header.You can play around with the headers to get what your lookin 4.If im not mistaken the long header gives you torque,the short topspeed i might hve it backwards.But i prefer the shortheader.
04-08-2007, 11:29 PM
#1062
impalabob64,
do you think that the Novarossi 2630 pipe is better that CRF pipes ? I have a EFRA-2626 and I was looking for a new pipe to try in my CRF engine. Thanks
do you think that the Novarossi 2630 pipe is better that CRF pipes ? I have a EFRA-2626 and I was looking for a new pipe to try in my CRF engine. Thanks
04-09-2007, 12:32 AM
#1063
The new 2647 is supposed to be the best pipe for this engine
04-09-2007, 01:52 AM
#1064
pipes
I tried the 2626 ,the engine just didnt perform at its best to me ,ziggy do hve a pic of 2647 the 2630,2601 are the pipes that seen to work.Just my 2cents ,also the 2630 with Murnan Full Ceremic CRF is very dangerous on the tracks.I will try an takes some video footage this weekend at the Region 4 race.
04-09-2007, 07:00 PM
#1065
Tech Rookie
Thanks for all the advice
Thanks Nano et al.
Took the WASP to Lilydale on Easter Monday for tuning run, 25 deg C and low humidity. CRF Clutch three weights and 1.3 mm tension on spring. Tried rebuilt Ver. 2007 carby at Team Orion settings with NovaRossi 2632 pipe. Just about ready to give up, when after about 20 minutes, finally cracked a setting that worked! HSN out 2.75 turns, LSN out 4.75 turns and finally the RRR is performing like it is on rocket power. Plug temp 125 degrees. No run on and ideling just fine for fuel stops. Let's see how it goes next race meeting!
Just a brief note: the Team Orion setting for the LSN is based on a caliper measurement. This is easy to do, but at what idle screw adjustment?
About the crank pin I understand the purpose of the smaller size to reduce rotational speed but do think it is small and subject to high loadings. At any rate have three motors, one brand new for parts, plus ceramic bearings etc so as long as the WASP does not revert to its running-on, I should be able to to campaign them for a good while!
Thanks all.
Took the WASP to Lilydale on Easter Monday for tuning run, 25 deg C and low humidity. CRF Clutch three weights and 1.3 mm tension on spring. Tried rebuilt Ver. 2007 carby at Team Orion settings with NovaRossi 2632 pipe. Just about ready to give up, when after about 20 minutes, finally cracked a setting that worked! HSN out 2.75 turns, LSN out 4.75 turns and finally the RRR is performing like it is on rocket power. Plug temp 125 degrees. No run on and ideling just fine for fuel stops. Let's see how it goes next race meeting!
Just a brief note: the Team Orion setting for the LSN is based on a caliper measurement. This is easy to do, but at what idle screw adjustment?
About the crank pin I understand the purpose of the smaller size to reduce rotational speed but do think it is small and subject to high loadings. At any rate have three motors, one brand new for parts, plus ceramic bearings etc so as long as the WASP does not revert to its running-on, I should be able to to campaign them for a good while!
Thanks all.