Tub Cyclone `S`
07-01-2010, 09:50 PM
#1141
Gearing for Novak motors is here, you can start from there:
http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/index.html
64 pitch works fine indoor...for outdoor move to bigger spaced tooths, 48 pitch as it is more resilient to small rocks.
http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/index.html
64 pitch works fine indoor...for outdoor move to bigger spaced tooths, 48 pitch as it is more resilient to small rocks.
07-01-2010, 11:39 PM
#1142
Most guys are running 88/54 or 55 (64p) with the TC and the 18t pulleys for that setup. It's around about 3.5 to one. Not sure how to get that ratio without changing the 16's for 18's and new belts.
How small of a spur can we go on these? 88/55 is good on the TC, I see they offer 80-82, doing some quick math it's in the ball park with 16t. Will this work?
How small of a spur can we go on these? 88/55 is good on the TC, I see they offer 80-82, doing some quick math it's in the ball park with 16t. Will this work?
Last edited by markw; 07-01-2010 at 11:57 PM.
07-01-2010, 11:49 PM
#1143
When I push the car down like when checking the ride height, it stays in the down position. The shocks are fine and this did not do it with my ball diff that I just took out. If I hold the car and squeeze the shocks, they go up, but don't come down on their own. I took the shocks off and tried it and sure enough, there is some pretty tight resistance between the end of the dogbone and where it goes into the solid axle. It does it to both sides of the car too.
07-11-2010, 08:59 PM
#1144
When I push the car down like when checking the ride height, it stays in the down position. The shocks are fine and this did not do it with my ball diff that I just took out. If I hold the car and squeeze the shocks, they go up, but don't come down on their own. I took the shocks off and tried it and sure enough, there is some pretty tight resistance between the end of the dogbone and where it goes into the solid axle. It does it to both sides of the car too.
Last edited by markw; 07-11-2010 at 09:27 PM.
07-30-2010, 05:49 PM
#1145
I'm thinking of changing my Woven Graphite Chassis for S Tube Chassis. How much flex is in the Tube Chassis?
07-30-2010, 05:57 PM
#1146
tub chassis
There is a far amount of flex in the tub.. but its not as strong as the carbon fibre chassis obviously.. Just the other night my g/f tub chassis snapped from a very slight knock on the rear wheel ... this is the 2nd chassis in a month to snap.. one good thing though the electrics are allot more protected and even if you have the setup wrong the car is very easy to drive as there is so much flex.. where as the TC.. its allot more noticable if you have the wrong setup..
07-30-2010, 06:05 PM
#1147
tube chassis
Warnos, is the problem in the design of the chassis?
07-30-2010, 07:15 PM
#1148
It just seems to be a weak point.. the chassis is still awsome for the price has some advantages over the c/f chassis as everything is protected and is easy to setup...But just once the tub breaks I would get a carbon fibre chassis.. even the 3 racing one.. I would not go from c/f to tub..
Cheers
Cheers
07-30-2010, 07:37 PM
#1149
It just seems to be a weak point.. the chassis is still awsome for the price has some advantages over the c/f chassis as everything is protected and is easy to setup...But just once the tub breaks I would get a carbon fibre chassis.. even the 3 racing one.. I would not go from c/f to tub..
Cheers
Cheers
There is a fix we found though that returns it to kit standard breakage levels, that would seriously strengthen the weak spot on all plastic Cyclone - S's.
In the gap where the rear chassis comes back in from the main body drop epoxy resin into the hole in the chassis, mainly this is on the Left side of the car for clockwise tracks and the rightside for anti clockwise tracks. The Tub chassis handles MUCH better on lower grip surfaces and is a lot more forgiving, drives like a Pro 3 lol.
Just my tuppence ...
07-31-2010, 09:30 AM
#1150
I need some spool advice... I ordered #61045 "Front Solid Axle Set" and tried to install it. The ends of the drive shafts won't fit in the cups??
I know the drive shafts are universals, I just have no idea what part number. They are black and feel like steel, with no marks on the shafts.
The only other spool/solid axle part number I have seen is the #61375. Is that the goods? Is there another part num?
I know the drive shafts are universals, I just have no idea what part number. They are black and feel like steel, with no marks on the shafts.The only other spool/solid axle part number I have seen is the #61375. Is that the goods? Is there another part num?
07-31-2010, 09:33 AM
#1151
I need some spool advice... I ordered #61045 "Front Solid Axle Set" and tried to install it. The ends of the drive shafts won't fit in the cups?? I know the drive shafts are universals, I just have no idea what part number. They are black and feel like steel, with no marks on the shafts.
The only other spool/solid axle part number I have seen is the #61375. Is that the goods? Is there another part num?
I know the drive shafts are universals, I just have no idea what part number. They are black and feel like steel, with no marks on the shafts.The only other spool/solid axle part number I have seen is the #61375. Is that the goods? Is there another part num?
07-31-2010, 04:38 PM
#1152
tube chassis
There is a screw hole that is marginally too close to the outside of the chassis, when running aluminium hingepin hangers and rear bulkheads the lack of 'flex' in the Ally makes the liklihood of a breakage quadruple .
There is a fix we found though that returns it to kit standard breakage levels, that would seriously strengthen the weak spot on all plastic Cyclone - S's.
In the gap where the rear chassis comes back in from the main body drop epoxy resin into the hole in the chassis, mainly this is on the Left side of the car for clockwise tracks and the rightside for anti clockwise tracks. The Tub chassis handles MUCH better on lower grip surfaces and is a lot more forgiving, drives like a Pro 3 lol.
Just my tuppence ...
There is a fix we found though that returns it to kit standard breakage levels, that would seriously strengthen the weak spot on all plastic Cyclone - S's.
In the gap where the rear chassis comes back in from the main body drop epoxy resin into the hole in the chassis, mainly this is on the Left side of the car for clockwise tracks and the rightside for anti clockwise tracks. The Tub chassis handles MUCH better on lower grip surfaces and is a lot more forgiving, drives like a Pro 3 lol.
Just my tuppence ...
08-01-2010, 08:40 PM
#1153
Next to tackle will be tossing a prodiff in the rear and doing TC shocks.
07-14-2011, 07:39 PM
#1155
It looks like the local on-road is coming back to life so I will dust out my Tub Cyclone! TTT