doki_doki

iTrader: (2)

here are pictures of the new carbon fiber upper deck. forgot to take pictures before i placed the servos and the receivers i have noticed that there is no set-screw to hold the atenna in place as compared to the wce. also the evo carbon fiber upper deck is much easier to work with compared to the wce especially the area where your work with the steering linkage i took time to hide away the wirings it's so nice to see when all the wirings are hidden

doki_doki

iTrader: (2)

here's a closer view of the newly designed fuel cap. i also placed a team titan fuel filter noticed that the area around the steering servo linkage has more room to work with

doki_doki

iTrader: (2)

here is a picture of the aluminum pipe holder that i placed. the carbon fiber upper deck already comes with a hole that will perfectly fit for the aluminum pipe holder upgrade

doki_doki

iTrader: (2)

here are pictures of the engine and pipe that will be bolted on to this kit. the engine is an OSSPEED 12TZ with an OSSPEED T1040 L52 in line pipe

fritzD

iTrader: (1)

doki,

that's one killer car and engine combo... hehehe

etgdpu

Hello all,
I would appreciate if you helped me with a small problem I am having with my RRR to EVO conversion. The main shaft "seems" like it is a little longer, because there is a gap a bout 1.5mm. If I move the 2 speed all the way towards the right block then the gap it is eliminated and the whole shaft does not move left and right but then the gap appears between the 2 spur gears. The first gear can move left and right. If I move the 2 speed away from the right block to eliminate the gap between the spurs then the gap appears in the whole shaft, which moves left and right.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

You're not doing anything wrong. There is no clear guidance in the instructions on where there gap should be, so it has been left to the individual to decide how to adjust it.

Upon encountering this same situation with my 2nd WCE (newer kit with the new fuel tank), I decided to tighten the 2 speed so that the shaft does not move from left to right. As a result, there is more play in the spur gears - but this ensures that the 2nd gear spur gear does not bind-up on the 2nd gear shoes when the end cap is tightend.

It would be good if others shared if they had this problem and how they decided to address the issue.

litespeed-dom

iTrader: (4)

I've compared the EVO layshaft to the stock WCE, the stock WCE shaft is indeed a little bit shorter. I haven't physically done the layshaft conversion to my own car yet so I can't tell you why or what to do.

Dom

jag

What is your opinion on the EVO 2-speed shaft vs. the WCE shaft? The only issue I have with the WCE shaft is that the plastic pulley does not last very long and the maintenance (remove/reinstall) is a little difficult. The possible downside to the EVO shaft could be additional weight and using an aluminum pulley. Are you going to convert?

Thanks

litespeed-dom

iTrader: (4)

The stock EVO shaft isn't lighter then the WCE shaft, it's almost the same. I'm using a Ti layshaft right now and that's why I didn't convert over. True, maintenance is a bit trouble right now and I have completely spun that 18T plastic pulley on the layshaft as well, that is why I'm using the optional Kyosho aluminum 18T pulley now. When I was looking at EVO shaft compare to my Ti shaft, you can actually cut a flat spot to use the EVO pulley/rotor combo where the set screw sits.

It's almost end of gas season for us up here so I'll probably just stick with what I got now and maybe do the mod next year.

Also one thing is that the EVO disc is not slotted or drilled, unlike the stock WCE disc. I do know Kyosho make APP pads and APP disc combo for the older V-one which used 2 pin pulley. I haven't really looked into that yet, but I think it'll work for our application.

Dom

doki_doki

iTrader: (2)

thanks hopefully i will be able to run it

doki_doki

iTrader: (2)

i was finally able to install the engine to the kit. here are pictures showing the meshing of the gears. also i noted that there is more clearance between the brake disk and the engine carbeurator..

doki_doki

iTrader: (2)

here are pictures of how i routed the fuel tubings to the engine i added a team titan fuel fiter for added protection for the engine

litespeed-dom

iTrader: (4)

Are you going to run this car or what?

Let's get it built and run it!

Dom

doki_doki

iTrader: (2)

yup...just finished it. just been busy lately. still waiting for my body to arrive and then run it any tips on running rubber tires on roughed cement technical track? thanks