Kyosho V-ONE RRR Evo
06-23-2007, 08:57 PM
#1936
Tech Rookie
I am curious about the performance of v one rrr Evo and v one rrr Evo WCE. How vast is the difference in their performance? It is difficult to find a baseline v one rrr. Is it still in production? So far how does it(v one rrr Evo) compare to Team Magic G4S?
06-23-2007, 09:38 PM
#1937
Eric ~
RRR does not have a gear stripping problem. You may want to read this and also the the gear stripping section in the MTX-4 KB. Some people say make sure you keep the 1st and 2nd gear tooth difference the same (i.e. 21-16 = 5, 61-56 = 5), but I've also heard people say that with the way the gears are designed on the RRR, you don't have to. IMO, it's better to live dangerously and find out the truth for yourself than live in fear that you might do something wrong.
It would be good to take out your engine and measure where your clutch nut is where you are at. You might want to try 1.5mm.
Go ahead and try the 17/22 as George suggested and see how that works for you. On my track with the STI, I switched to a 15T for 1st to offset the spool up and I was much happier with the acceleration. Length wise, my track is longer than yours, but it's more technical on the inside. I'm in the process of fine tuning the engine, so I'll have to see how the spool up changes next time I run the car.
2nd gear wise, where are you shifting on the track? Are the gears winding out at all or does it seem like you're shifting early? If haven't already, it would be good to play with the shift point.
Are you running a one-way or spool up front? Have you tried both?
RRR does not have a gear stripping problem. You may want to read this and also the the gear stripping section in the MTX-4 KB. Some people say make sure you keep the 1st and 2nd gear tooth difference the same (i.e. 21-16 = 5, 61-56 = 5), but I've also heard people say that with the way the gears are designed on the RRR, you don't have to. IMO, it's better to live dangerously and find out the truth for yourself than live in fear that you might do something wrong.
It would be good to take out your engine and measure where your clutch nut is where you are at. You might want to try 1.5mm.
Go ahead and try the 17/22 as George suggested and see how that works for you. On my track with the STI, I switched to a 15T for 1st to offset the spool up and I was much happier with the acceleration. Length wise, my track is longer than yours, but it's more technical on the inside. I'm in the process of fine tuning the engine, so I'll have to see how the spool up changes next time I run the car.
2nd gear wise, where are you shifting on the track? Are the gears winding out at all or does it seem like you're shifting early? If haven't already, it would be good to play with the shift point.
Are you running a one-way or spool up front? Have you tried both?
06-23-2007, 11:19 PM
#1938
Comparing the RRR Evo to the G4S, I would say that you would have to upgrade and mod the G4S to give you the same tuning options that you have on the Evo. There are guys that are running it stock out of the box and doing well (ZOOM). Check out my G4S KB site for more info on the car. BTW.. Raceday Hobbies is selling the G4S with free ED Transmission.
06-24-2007, 05:26 AM
#1939
Tech Elite
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Eric ~
RRR does not have a gear stripping problem. You may want to read this and also the the gear stripping section in the MTX-4 KB. Some people say make sure you keep the 1st and 2nd gear tooth difference the same (i.e. 21-16 = 5, 61-56 = 5), but I've also heard people say that with the way the gears are designed on the RRR, you don't have to. IMO, it's better to live dangerously and find out the truth for yourself than live in fear that you might do something wrong.
It would be good to take out your engine and measure where your clutch nut is where you are at. You might want to try 1.5mm.
Go ahead and try the 17/22 as George suggested and see how that works for you. On my track with the STI, I switched to a 15T for 1st to offset the spool up and I was much happier with the acceleration. Length wise, my track is longer than yours, but it's more technical on the inside. I'm in the process of fine tuning the engine, so I'll have to see how the spool up changes next time I run the car.
2nd gear wise, where are you shifting on the track? Are the gears winding out at all or does it seem like you're shifting early? If haven't already, it would be good to play with the shift point.
Are you running a one-way or spool up front? Have you tried both?
RRR does not have a gear stripping problem. You may want to read this and also the the gear stripping section in the MTX-4 KB. Some people say make sure you keep the 1st and 2nd gear tooth difference the same (i.e. 21-16 = 5, 61-56 = 5), but I've also heard people say that with the way the gears are designed on the RRR, you don't have to. IMO, it's better to live dangerously and find out the truth for yourself than live in fear that you might do something wrong.
It would be good to take out your engine and measure where your clutch nut is where you are at. You might want to try 1.5mm.
Go ahead and try the 17/22 as George suggested and see how that works for you. On my track with the STI, I switched to a 15T for 1st to offset the spool up and I was much happier with the acceleration. Length wise, my track is longer than yours, but it's more technical on the inside. I'm in the process of fine tuning the engine, so I'll have to see how the spool up changes next time I run the car.
2nd gear wise, where are you shifting on the track? Are the gears winding out at all or does it seem like you're shifting early? If haven't already, it would be good to play with the shift point.
Are you running a one-way or spool up front? Have you tried both?
06-24-2007, 07:45 AM
#1940
shift point
RMD-
Thanks for the info. Regarding gear stripping, I have had zero problems, and good to hear none are on the horizon
I have the shift point in a pretty good spot. I have also run with both a spool and a one way on this track. With the spool, I was fighting a on power oversteer from the middle of the turn thru exit. The one way felt more fluid.
I will measure my clutch settings. Having to remove the engine to take this measurement means I adjust it in the car a bunch, but don't measure it often.
Thanks for the info. Regarding gear stripping, I have had zero problems, and good to hear none are on the horizon
I have the shift point in a pretty good spot. I have also run with both a spool and a one way on this track. With the spool, I was fighting a on power oversteer from the middle of the turn thru exit. The one way felt more fluid.
I will measure my clutch settings. Having to remove the engine to take this measurement means I adjust it in the car a bunch, but don't measure it often.
06-24-2007, 12:01 PM
#1941
Just curious.. What brand and shore tires are you using?
06-24-2007, 01:06 PM
#1942
If use OS 12TZ Spec 2 engine , choice which pipe ?
06-24-2007, 03:53 PM
#1944
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Cebu City, Philippines and Ocala, Florida, USA
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A friend of mine has good results using the Skyline pipe with the regular OSTZ 3porter...
06-24-2007, 04:16 PM
#1945
06-24-2007, 06:02 PM
#1946
RMD-
Thanks for the info. Regarding gear stripping, I have had zero problems, and good to hear none are on the horizon
I have the shift point in a pretty good spot. I have also run with both a spool and a one way on this track. With the spool, I was fighting a on power oversteer from the middle of the turn thru exit. The one way felt more fluid.
I will measure my clutch settings. Having to remove the engine to take this measurement means I adjust it in the car a bunch, but don't measure it often.
Thanks for the info. Regarding gear stripping, I have had zero problems, and good to hear none are on the horizon
I have the shift point in a pretty good spot. I have also run with both a spool and a one way on this track. With the spool, I was fighting a on power oversteer from the middle of the turn thru exit. The one way felt more fluid.
I will measure my clutch settings. Having to remove the engine to take this measurement means I adjust it in the car a bunch, but don't measure it often.
onpower oversteer you can do a couple of things run less droop or change your roll center or reduce your steering dual rate most of the time I start off with dual rate & if it still persists i start with my roll center & droop is always done when you change your roll center
06-26-2007, 07:40 AM
#1949
Tech Rookie
does anyone have a problem with a stuck clutch bell? I was runing my car and the thrust race bearings fell out, and now i cannot remove my clutch bell, its stuck tight.... help!
06-26-2007, 08:41 AM
#1950
