TC3 Assembly Tips, Factory Team Kit
01-26-2003, 07:57 AM
#106
Setup Changes for Cold Weather
Kenneth-This did not work in my case. There is no real movement of the braces possible because of the tight fit to the screw boss seats on these braces to the chassis.
Tirbolag-The advantage of putting the post on front of the shock tower is that they end up in a better place on the rear window. Foward of the seam between the window and the trunk lid. If you have already mounted the body I would leave them alone and change them to the front when you mount your next body.
Losi Front Hubs- I noticed that I was driving the car with the dual rate set for maximum steering. It looked like I could use a little more steering travel. Losi front hubs provided this extra travel. Still trying this mod out.
Setup Changes for Cold weather.
My setup and gearing seemed ill suited for cold weather (less than 55 F or so on indoor asphalt in Houston). The 7.55 gears would heat Sorex 28's or CS 27's too much and they never seemed to hook up for me around the corners. I upped the pinion to a 7.2 gear today on a Chamelion II motor. This produced about 10 seconds faster race times for me over Thursday which had similar conditions, as it allowed me to use the CS 27 tire at 54 F. The downside is brush life is much reduced. About 2-3 heats instead of 5. My fastest lap time was as good as in warmer conditions. I also added a little more steering to get rid of a push produced by the softer tires. Went back to the stock front shocktower with the blue spring upper mount in the middle hole. This in addition to the Losi hubs gave me good steering for the race.
Tweak Report
I have raced the car with the new motor support twice now. It comes off the tweak station with collars even left and right just like it was when new. The support seems to be working well.
Tirbolag-The advantage of putting the post on front of the shock tower is that they end up in a better place on the rear window. Foward of the seam between the window and the trunk lid. If you have already mounted the body I would leave them alone and change them to the front when you mount your next body.
Losi Front Hubs- I noticed that I was driving the car with the dual rate set for maximum steering. It looked like I could use a little more steering travel. Losi front hubs provided this extra travel. Still trying this mod out.
Setup Changes for Cold weather.
My setup and gearing seemed ill suited for cold weather (less than 55 F or so on indoor asphalt in Houston). The 7.55 gears would heat Sorex 28's or CS 27's too much and they never seemed to hook up for me around the corners. I upped the pinion to a 7.2 gear today on a Chamelion II motor. This produced about 10 seconds faster race times for me over Thursday which had similar conditions, as it allowed me to use the CS 27 tire at 54 F. The downside is brush life is much reduced. About 2-3 heats instead of 5. My fastest lap time was as good as in warmer conditions. I also added a little more steering to get rid of a push produced by the softer tires. Went back to the stock front shocktower with the blue spring upper mount in the middle hole. This in addition to the Losi hubs gave me good steering for the race.
Tweak Report
I have raced the car with the new motor support twice now. It comes off the tweak station with collars even left and right just like it was when new. The support seems to be working well.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 02-03-2003 at 08:43 AM.
01-27-2003, 12:25 AM
#107
Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.
JOHN S AND ANYBODY ELSE THAT'S INTERESTED.
i have been thinking about this tweak problem, or the lack of it in our case, and have been wondering why we don't suffer so much.
I have come up with a possible solution. I remember we did have tweak problems when we first started out with the TC3. However about a year and a half ago I rebuilt son Josh's TC3 from scratch and used 3mm titanium screws all round - absolutely everywhere. Now 3mm is slightly bigger than the standard TC3 screws so everything went together alot tighter. I also use alloy suspension mounts front and rear. I am wondering if the combination of all these things has in fact helped make the chassis stiffer. Could well be.
Just a thought!
In fact in 7 meetings all I have done to the car was tightened up the rear diff a bit, and replaced a front hub a couple of weeks ago.
This weekend we race on a much tighter circuit with lots of tight left to right flicks. I have run the Yoke on it already and find I need more front end grip to get the back end to rotate easier. Now we need to run the TC3 one evening this week to adjust it accordingly too.
Will keep you posted.
regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
JOHN S AND ANYBODY ELSE THAT'S INTERESTED.
i have been thinking about this tweak problem, or the lack of it in our case, and have been wondering why we don't suffer so much.
I have come up with a possible solution. I remember we did have tweak problems when we first started out with the TC3. However about a year and a half ago I rebuilt son Josh's TC3 from scratch and used 3mm titanium screws all round - absolutely everywhere. Now 3mm is slightly bigger than the standard TC3 screws so everything went together alot tighter. I also use alloy suspension mounts front and rear. I am wondering if the combination of all these things has in fact helped make the chassis stiffer. Could well be.
Just a thought!
In fact in 7 meetings all I have done to the car was tightened up the rear diff a bit, and replaced a front hub a couple of weeks ago.
This weekend we race on a much tighter circuit with lots of tight left to right flicks. I have run the Yoke on it already and find I need more front end grip to get the back end to rotate easier. Now we need to run the TC3 one evening this week to adjust it accordingly too.
Will keep you posted.
regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
01-27-2003, 01:37 AM
#108
Originally posted by johnbull
I have come up with a possible solution. I remember we did have tweak problems when we first started out with the TC3. However about a year and a half ago I rebuilt son Josh's TC3 from scratch and used 3mm titanium screws all round - absolutely everywhere. Now 3mm is slightly bigger than the standard TC3 screws so everything went together alot tighter. I also use alloy suspension mounts front and rear. I am wondering if the combination of all these things has in fact helped make the chassis stiffer. Could well be.
I have come up with a possible solution. I remember we did have tweak problems when we first started out with the TC3. However about a year and a half ago I rebuilt son Josh's TC3 from scratch and used 3mm titanium screws all round - absolutely everywhere. Now 3mm is slightly bigger than the standard TC3 screws so everything went together alot tighter. I also use alloy suspension mounts front and rear. I am wondering if the combination of all these things has in fact helped make the chassis stiffer. Could well be.
When you said rebuilt using 3mm screws, does it mean that you took out all the imperial screws and did a direct replacement with 3mm screws while using the existing parts? Do the rethreaded parts hold up well? Thanks.
Kenneth
01-27-2003, 06:42 AM
#109
Tech Apprentice
Hey everyone. At last, i drove a big test session last weekend with my TC3 Ft after when i got that new IRS spool from Tower Hobbies and i have to say... it was awsome to drive with that.
Front:
Take-off cs-22 with M insert
Rear shocktower, up and inner pos. and wheel side link rise
0,5mm higher than normal.
Shocktower middle hole
New a-arms, outer pos.
No sway bar
Droop 4
Gold spring
50 wt
Ride height 5.5mm
2-holes piston
Kickup 0*
Toe-in 0*
Caster 4*
Camber 2*
Rear:
Take-off cs-22 with M insert
Inner link up and in. Shocktower middle hole
No sway bar
Droop 1
Blue spring
40wt
Ride height 5.5mm
2-holes piston
Anti-squat 0
Toe-in 2
Camber 2*
Wheelbase medium
Batterys front
Our club carpet track has a lots of grip and it`s quite technical, so the car was so, so.. calm and nice to drive with those rubber tires and set-up
Front:
Take-off cs-22 with M insert
Rear shocktower, up and inner pos. and wheel side link rise
0,5mm higher than normal.
Shocktower middle hole
New a-arms, outer pos.
No sway bar
Droop 4
Gold spring
50 wt
Ride height 5.5mm
2-holes piston
Kickup 0*
Toe-in 0*
Caster 4*
Camber 2*
Rear:
Take-off cs-22 with M insert
Inner link up and in. Shocktower middle hole
No sway bar
Droop 1
Blue spring
40wt
Ride height 5.5mm
2-holes piston
Anti-squat 0
Toe-in 2
Camber 2*
Wheelbase medium
Batterys front
Our club carpet track has a lots of grip and it`s quite technical, so the car was so, so.. calm and nice to drive with those rubber tires and set-up
Last edited by Proto pilot; 01-28-2003 at 10:34 AM.
01-27-2003, 12:17 PM
#110
Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.
KENNETH TAN.
Yes you are correct. All I did was remove all the imperial size screws and replaced them with metric 3mm ones of the same length.
Because they are that tiny bit bigger it has made the car alot more solid and I suspect this is why it doesn't tweak so much.
The 3mm will thread into the same holes - just a bit tighter, which is ideal. And they never loosen which is an added bonus.
I did a couple of packs with my Yoke this afternoon and have just changed the top plate on it to make it a bit more responsive on this niggly circuit we willbe racing on this weekend.
You can see some pics of our track on our club website; www.irmcc.com
Regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
KENNETH TAN.
Yes you are correct. All I did was remove all the imperial size screws and replaced them with metric 3mm ones of the same length.
Because they are that tiny bit bigger it has made the car alot more solid and I suspect this is why it doesn't tweak so much.
The 3mm will thread into the same holes - just a bit tighter, which is ideal. And they never loosen which is an added bonus.
I did a couple of packs with my Yoke this afternoon and have just changed the top plate on it to make it a bit more responsive on this niggly circuit we willbe racing on this weekend.
You can see some pics of our track on our club website; www.irmcc.com
Regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
01-27-2003, 10:50 PM
#111
Tech Apprentice
Continue.....
Just piece of my mind. If that IRS spool is strong enough to me i`m really happy, because earlier (almoust one year ago) when i drove FTTC3 i managed to destroy three one-ways and i was very mad with them. It was almoust the price of the car!!!! Now i think that spool is my way to go now and future, we`ll see
01-28-2003, 08:18 AM
#112
Proto pilot-Thanks for the carpet setup for rubber tires.
Locked Diff
One problem with running a locked diff is that there is increased wear of the dogbone at the CVD pin. The pin tends to tear out of the aluminum. Plan on having some spare axles setup and ready to go. Replace the axle when there is a bulge that appears on the dogbone cup at the CVD pin.
Locked Diff
One problem with running a locked diff is that there is increased wear of the dogbone at the CVD pin. The pin tends to tear out of the aluminum. Plan on having some spare axles setup and ready to go. Replace the axle when there is a bulge that appears on the dogbone cup at the CVD pin.
01-28-2003, 10:22 AM
#113
Tech Apprentice
John. Sorry, i forgot to tell you, at i also got those set of IRS composite dog bones with pin cushions. I decided to use them only front and two of them are spare
Those composite dog bones are very light vs Mip steel shine ones!
Btw: I made some correct to my earlier set-up.
Those composite dog bones are very light vs Mip steel shine ones!
Btw: I made some correct to my earlier set-up.
Last edited by Proto pilot; 01-28-2003 at 10:36 AM.
01-28-2003, 01:07 PM
#114
i use the irs pin cushions as well, but for mod with a spool would you guys run the composite bones or switch to aluminum. i always run aluminum in mod and with a spool in there i would think the need would be even greater. one idea i like is the "blade" that xray uses on the t1 one the dogbone pins and i think shumacher uses them as well. i was looking at my xray's and not sure if they would fit but ill take them out and compare...
01-28-2003, 01:42 PM
#115
I use the oversized IRS aluminum dogbones when I run the spool. Very strong...
01-31-2003, 05:44 PM
#116
Reading the Tire
You can use the appearance of the tire to help you select the proper heat range of tire. The tire should show ripples lined up along the circumference like in the photo below if it is the right heat range of tire. This is a Sorex 32 tire used on indoor asphalt with traction compound with 32 runs on it. It was hooked up today at 65 F running a Chamelion II geared at 7.20. The wear pattern is most apparent when you wet the tire with traction compound. When you slide your finger across the dry tire it feels rough.
When the tire is too soft you will tend to get a tire that is scuffed smooth and it will show some small rubber marbles scattered on the surface of the tire. The marbles occur also if you leave traction compound on too long on a soft tire. The marbles reduce traction and make the car slide around instead of gripping. A new tire that is too soft may show a torn ledge where the center of the tire is ripped away.
In stock a tire that is too soft may produce too much cornering traction and slow the car down on the corners too much, or produce too much steering traction and make the car oversteer.
A tire that is too hard will be smooth also, but will not show any of the rubber marbles. It will just slide around too easy.
With the proper heat range, grip is amazing but the car slides smoothly and in control in the corners.
When the tire is too soft you will tend to get a tire that is scuffed smooth and it will show some small rubber marbles scattered on the surface of the tire. The marbles occur also if you leave traction compound on too long on a soft tire. The marbles reduce traction and make the car slide around instead of gripping. A new tire that is too soft may show a torn ledge where the center of the tire is ripped away.
In stock a tire that is too soft may produce too much cornering traction and slow the car down on the corners too much, or produce too much steering traction and make the car oversteer.
A tire that is too hard will be smooth also, but will not show any of the rubber marbles. It will just slide around too easy.
With the proper heat range, grip is amazing but the car slides smoothly and in control in the corners.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 02-01-2003 at 10:22 AM.
02-01-2003, 10:23 AM
#117
Corner weigths- The addition of the heavier KO digital servo and motor mount strap eliminated the need for the rear practice transponder mount. I now have about 1.2 ounces of lead just to the right of the motor.
Trinity Blue Bumper
The holes in the stock bumper tend to elongate. Eventually this causes the bumper to drag on the tire. I replaced it with the trinity blue bumper which is firmer foam but cut out so that it is still light weight.
Trinity Blue Bumper
The holes in the stock bumper tend to elongate. Eventually this causes the bumper to drag on the tire. I replaced it with the trinity blue bumper which is firmer foam but cut out so that it is still light weight.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 02-01-2003 at 03:28 PM.
02-02-2003, 07:41 PM
#118
Chamelion II Setup
Chamelion II motors which are 19 turn double motors with laydown brushes are kind of a pain to keep running well. The typical setup at our track has been Reedy 767 brushes with the trinity black springs that the Chamelion comes with. On our high grip track at Reflex RC this setup is very fragile if you run toward higher gears (larger pinion). Breakin must be complete and then you never know if it's really going to take. I think a little heavier springs are neccesary. Warlock Medium Red springs seem to work well. They test at about 7.5 ounces pushing on a brush which rests on a balance in an endbell jig. (photo on next page) The trinity black spring these days test at about 7 ounces although they are discontinued it seems. The trinity green spring is supposed to be the same but tests at only 5.5 ounces. With a gear of 7.2 the Reedy 767 brushes are toast after two runs, though you might get a third if you are lucky.
We are having better luck with Trinity 4499 compound brush (the e-brush) With low gears it is a little slower than the Reedy 767. With a gear of 7.2 or so which gives the brush a real workout the 4499 brushes are faster. They come in a crosscut pattern now which is even beter because it does not trench the comm during breakin. The part# is 4504 or 4505 for the new 99 plus compound. We are getting 8-12 runs now with no brush discoloration. Nice. We still cut the comm every 4 runs.
Traction Compound
I tried applying traction compound for less an less time today. Left it on for only ten minutes before the main and ran my best lap times.
Setup Changes.
I have been adding a little more steering each week as I get used to the TC3. Ran blue springs front all the way in on top and blue springs on back all the way out today on the indoor asphalt (as did CT with different upper positions).
We both ran our fastest races. I was a lap faster than thursday night from the brush change, setup change, traction compound time change, and it was warmer which helped as well.
Bump on the Dogleg
We had a bump in the middle of a very fast dogleg after the detection loop that was making the car go almost airborne. I reduced the shock oil by 5 weight to 30 weight. Now I could go through at full throttle.
We are having better luck with Trinity 4499 compound brush (the e-brush) With low gears it is a little slower than the Reedy 767. With a gear of 7.2 or so which gives the brush a real workout the 4499 brushes are faster. They come in a crosscut pattern now which is even beter because it does not trench the comm during breakin. The part# is 4504 or 4505 for the new 99 plus compound. We are getting 8-12 runs now with no brush discoloration. Nice. We still cut the comm every 4 runs.
Traction Compound
I tried applying traction compound for less an less time today. Left it on for only ten minutes before the main and ran my best lap times.
Setup Changes.
I have been adding a little more steering each week as I get used to the TC3. Ran blue springs front all the way in on top and blue springs on back all the way out today on the indoor asphalt (as did CT with different upper positions).
We both ran our fastest races. I was a lap faster than thursday night from the brush change, setup change, traction compound time change, and it was warmer which helped as well.
Bump on the Dogleg
We had a bump in the middle of a very fast dogleg after the detection loop that was making the car go almost airborne. I reduced the shock oil by 5 weight to 30 weight. Now I could go through at full throttle.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 03-14-2003 at 02:44 PM.
02-02-2003, 08:43 PM
#119
Tech Adept
John S.
Hi,,
Have you ever tried tire warners??? we used them indoors during the winter (cold track/rubber tires) in Michigan. as we went to foam I haven't tried them out on the foams.
if you want to try my tire warmers e-mail me.
Thanks
Fakk2
Hi,,
Have you ever tried tire warners??? we used them indoors during the winter (cold track/rubber tires) in Michigan. as we went to foam I haven't tried them out on the foams.
if you want to try my tire warmers e-mail me.
Thanks
Fakk2
02-02-2003, 09:03 PM
#120
i started using tire warmers on my rubber tires about a month ago and wont be without them ever again. i dont use traction compound anymore either.
tires hook hard right from the beginning of the race
mine are the integy warmers with the solid inserts so there is no velcro or elastic to make it harder to put the warmers on.
just put the cups onto the tires and plug in the battery, simple as that!
we also sell them for $56 shipped!
tires hook hard right from the beginning of the race
mine are the integy warmers with the solid inserts so there is no velcro or elastic to make it harder to put the warmers on.
just put the cups onto the tires and plug in the battery, simple as that!
we also sell them for $56 shipped!