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Old 06-11-2005, 08:50 AM
  #106  
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Here is a big one.

Make sure the surface that you are cuttign on is stable and does not wobble.
I found out this the hard way a amost destroyed a comm at the track one day. If you are on a flat stable table then make sure you are not trying to take so much off. Here is how I start. I lube my V blocks strap in the comm adn make sure the belt is snug but not tight, Line the bit up with the very outside edge of the comm and bring it almost to where it is touching. I hook up power to the motor, if your running a standard 540 then set the voltage to 3V now while the comm is spinning move the bit ever so slightly to the comm, when you hear that the bit is touching back the bit a tiny bit off and try to make you first pass, if the bit isn't touching completely then on your second pass move the bit a tiny bit more then make youe second pass do this until the come is even and not pitted or groved. The trick to cutting a comm is patience and take only the very least amount off. Alot of guys get over zealous and take too much off, when you do there is line left or pits or what not.
I personally cut my comm after two -three runs. As to not have to take so much off. And when I am racign a larger race I cut my comm and change my brushes after every run. Just what I do...Do what works for you but heed the advice about a sturdly table to cut on. Plastic tables stink. I would rather cut my comm on the asphalt. LOL
Take Care, GOD Bless and Good Luck,
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Old 06-11-2005, 08:59 AM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by dakrat
also try using a cutting fluid. it should give u a smooth finish
I've tried most of of the popular cutting fluids. For me, nothing works as good as a sharpie. The oil in the ink is enough lubricant, and you only need to cut enough to take off the ink. Anything more is too much copper. I've prob spent $50 on just trying to get that perfect cut, then to realize that the plain old Sharpie was the ticket.
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Old 06-11-2005, 09:55 AM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by Pro4Capece
I've prob spent $50 on just trying to get that perfect cut, then to realize that the plain old Sharpie was the ticket.
Those Sharpies are excellent. They should be included in the box when you buy a comm lathe.
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Old 06-11-2005, 12:33 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by Paul_TC4
Those Sharpies are excellent. They should be included in the box when you buy a comm lathe.
AMEN....
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Old 06-11-2005, 12:36 PM
  #110  
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also try comm drop on the surface, always gives me that shine
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Old 06-11-2005, 02:58 PM
  #111  
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here is one old lathe com true I bought it in 1987 still cuts good but when dimond goes i have no opition but to have it retuled
I have one of those too and still use it I noticed that the motor on it is one of Mike's Haven't thought of him in many years. Warms my heart to see quality stuff still being used. I started in 1988. Still having fun with R/C
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Old 06-11-2005, 09:03 PM
  #112  
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Looks like a lathe for lefties
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Old 06-11-2005, 09:04 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by Pro4Capece
Looks like a lathe for lefties
Oh yeah, try saying that 5 times fast
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Old 06-11-2005, 09:14 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by Pro4Capece
Looks like a lathe for lefties
i just noticed that. good eyes
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Old 06-18-2005, 08:32 PM
  #115  
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hudy lathes, how much volts do u guys use to run this lathe? im used to a 12v lathe. just wondering
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Old 06-19-2005, 01:02 AM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by dakrat
hudy lathes, how much volts do u guys use to run this lathe? im used to a 12v lathe. just wondering
4.8V
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Old 06-19-2005, 07:19 AM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by dakrat
hudy lathes, how much volts do u guys use to run this lathe? im used to a 12v lathe. just wondering
3V
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Old 06-19-2005, 08:46 AM
  #118  
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i know the hudy website says 4.8v but has anyone tried different volt settings and have great results? i might try 3v
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Old 06-19-2005, 11:57 AM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by NVisible
So, what kind of sound should be heard when cutting? I have some hi pitched sounds, which arent consistant across the comm. Is this from the comm being mishaped? Im also getting some scratches. My manual says lines are ok, but im not sure to what extent

**edit, damn i sure bumped an oldie
I have only seen what you describe when a lathe motor has been connected backwards. Check to make sure that your lathe motor is running in the correct direction.

The armature should be rotating away from you as you look downward at it. Which is clockwise when looking at the armature from the comm end.

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Old 06-19-2005, 11:58 AM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by dakrat
i know the hudy website says 4.8v but has anyone tried different volt settings and have great results? i might try 3v
Hudy instructions actually say 4.8v is using battery power AND at least 5.0v if using power supply.
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