mr crum

iTrader: (5)

run no shims in front if you do run them you will break alot of bone blades and have alot of axle problems cause the axles are at the outer most part of the outdrive

robsryd

Did somebody say TC6 thead?

spongerX

I ran the 2 degree shims (2mm?) each side in front for a while and didn't have any blade breakage or axle problems. I took them out when I went to an Exotek chassis. I've seen others break blades without any shims installed but in almost a year I haven't managed to break any yet.

When I ran my diff in a very low position, using the B cam holder, the plastic blades really cut into my aluminum diff outdrives badly. I got new outdrives and put the diffs back to the A holder and wear is noticeably less.

When is the best time to change the blades? The outer surface that touches the diff outdrives doesn't seem to wear much. Is it the hole that goes around the axle pin that wears?

Tha Skinny

iTrader: (8)

I'm trying to find more rear grip. I have did everything all day to try to find more. I had loads of front grip but wanted to KINDA step out on good throttle. I just started running on asphalt and ended up getting good results at the end of the day, I just felt I could get the car to handle better in the rear. My links are maxed and I was running 6 & 4 in droop.( lol.. Don't know what else would help bresides my whole setup!) just asking for suggestions. I haven't tried a sway bar though....Thanks guys!

Rick Hohwart

you will need at least 3 degrees of toe. Also make sure you are using a spool and that it is tight.

Tha Skinny

iTrader: (8)

Yeah I'm running 4 degrees of toe in the rear, plus a spool. I even tried 4.5, but had best results at 4.

Scooter79rs

iTrader: (9)

Whats with the crazy amounts of toe-in? I'm running at 2, I found it really twitchy at 3.5. I guess its also affected by the rest of the setup as well.
I've only driven rubber/ashphalt

Josh Hohnstein

iTrader: (3)

Make sure your rear diff is smooth and not in need of a rebuild, also make sure its not too loose.
Try running your rear camber link close to level (no shims at the outer hub) this usually helps with forward bite.

Tha Skinny

iTrader: (8)

Thanks, my diff was great all day..running a lower turn motor I thought I would have problems with it. I did remove the shims under the rear links and helped the front to my feel. Ultimately I trying to just find more rear. The front of the car has been pretty easy to get where i want it I will try more droop this weekend and possibly a rear sway bar.

Tha Skinny

iTrader: (8)

What roll center settings are you running? What are your track temps and tires being used?

Scooter79rs

iTrader: (9)

Camber links in position 3 with black bull-stud with 1mm washer. Tyres have been either 32's or 36's (its all I've got) probably should be using 27's or 22's. About 3 weeks at my local track (low bite) I was running 32's and my tyre's were cooling down while racing. I was heating my tyres up to 70 degrees Celsius after 4 laps (about 18.5seconds per lap) they were 19.

BlueEagle

Rick do you run a heatsink/fan on your motor? Temps here in TX are easily over 100F.

MoonTrap

Does anyone know of a Gear Diff that will fit the TC5 ?

Rick Hohwart

I don't in modified but if you are already adding ballast to make weight a fan would be a good idea.

IL_AudiRacer

iTrader: (58)

Can anyone recommend a good base asphalt setup for RCGT ? been struggling with my car mainly rear grip as mentioned above early in heats car would just spin out when getting on throttle. got a little better as the tires came to temp but still had to really feather the throttle. TIA