Team Associated TC5
11-08-2009, 08:34 AM
When building shocks, you usually do not want any rebound as this adds another variable into your suspension equation. If you keep your shocks at zero rebound, it's easier to tune your car because you have at least one constant in the equation. Any rebound in the suspension should be from a combination of the spring rate, shock piston, and shock oil and not from rebound within the shock due to air bubbles or too much oil. The bleeder hole drilled into the top of the shock cap helps to relieve the unwanted rebound.
11-08-2009, 08:37 AM
Stock up on extra diff bolts/nuts. Associated part # 6575. Around $2.90 or less at most places.
Put the diff spring in a vice grip or some sort of clamp for 1-2 hours to reduce the tension in it. It makes doing up the diffs a lot easier.
When putting the stock nylock diff nut in the plastic T piece make sure its fully seated at the bottom before trying to do up the bolt. Tap the nut in place with another tool first to fully seat it.
Be really careful tightening this bolt/nut combo. They strip super easily so it's good to have a couple spares on hand. Associated part # 6575 comes with the nut seated in the T piece already.
Other than the diff the car goes together really easily. I found drilling the shock caps with a really small drill bit helped me get zero rebound on the shocks. Theres a molded area on the cap that looks like this was planned but not done for some reason. Shocks work ok with just the bladder minus the foam pieces.
Put the diff spring in a vice grip or some sort of clamp for 1-2 hours to reduce the tension in it. It makes doing up the diffs a lot easier.
When putting the stock nylock diff nut in the plastic T piece make sure its fully seated at the bottom before trying to do up the bolt. Tap the nut in place with another tool first to fully seat it.
Be really careful tightening this bolt/nut combo. They strip super easily so it's good to have a couple spares on hand. Associated part # 6575 comes with the nut seated in the T piece already.
Other than the diff the car goes together really easily. I found drilling the shock caps with a really small drill bit helped me get zero rebound on the shocks. Theres a molded area on the cap that looks like this was planned but not done for some reason. Shocks work ok with just the bladder minus the foam pieces.
+1
That's pretty much it. Also, if you plan to race on asphalt, use the top deck option screws/o-rings on the rear four screws of your top deck. This will give you a little more chassis flex.
11-08-2009, 08:48 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
11-08-2009, 09:59 AM
Thanks...
Stock up on extra diff bolts/nuts. Associated part # 6575. Around $2.90 or less at most places.
Put the diff spring in a vice grip or some sort of clamp for 1-2 hours to reduce the tension in it. It makes doing up the diffs a lot easier.
When putting the stock nylock diff nut in the plastic T piece make sure its fully seated at the bottom before trying to do up the bolt. Tap the nut in place with another tool first to fully seat it.
Be really careful tightening this bolt/nut combo. They strip super easily so it's good to have a couple spares on hand. Associated part # 6575 comes with the nut seated in the T piece already.
Other than the diff the car goes together really easily. I found drilling the shock caps with a really small drill bit helped me get zero rebound on the shocks. Theres a molded area on the cap that looks like this was planned but not done for some reason. Shocks work ok with just the bladder minus the foam pieces.
Put the diff spring in a vice grip or some sort of clamp for 1-2 hours to reduce the tension in it. It makes doing up the diffs a lot easier.
When putting the stock nylock diff nut in the plastic T piece make sure its fully seated at the bottom before trying to do up the bolt. Tap the nut in place with another tool first to fully seat it.
Be really careful tightening this bolt/nut combo. They strip super easily so it's good to have a couple spares on hand. Associated part # 6575 comes with the nut seated in the T piece already.
Other than the diff the car goes together really easily. I found drilling the shock caps with a really small drill bit helped me get zero rebound on the shocks. Theres a molded area on the cap that looks like this was planned but not done for some reason. Shocks work ok with just the bladder minus the foam pieces.
Also, was reading the directions and it was recommended that you file the battery slots, any kind of file is ok, or a specific one/number.
I dont have an Lipo's yet, just battery packs and i remember from the past that the carbon will cut into the batteries.
11-08-2009, 10:09 AM
hey guys which pistons are the same as losi #56. is it #2 or #3 thanx
11-08-2009, 11:50 AM
11-08-2009, 01:35 PM
11-08-2009, 03:47 PM
11-08-2009, 03:51 PM
Pretty sure Keven used the losi pistons in Vegas.
11-08-2009, 03:55 PM
11-08-2009, 04:25 PM
Tech Master
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: im 4rm a far away place called 1st
Posts: 1,849
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do you guys have any tips to help get the car to transition faster? im currently running on high bite asphalt.
11-08-2009, 08:39 PM
Problem with Shocks...
Just starting building my shocks tonight and I think I ran into a problem.
I am about to insert the shock shaft into the shock body but it does not seem to fit. It seems the seal retainer is to big unless I really force the seal retainer in the shock body.
Is this normal? I have attached a picture of the set-up.
Thanks in advance.
I am about to insert the shock shaft into the shock body but it does not seem to fit. It seems the seal retainer is to big unless I really force the seal retainer in the shock body.
Is this normal? I have attached a picture of the set-up.
Thanks in advance.
11-08-2009, 08:43 PM
Just starting building my shocks tonight and I think I ran into a problem.
I am about to insert the shock shaft into the shock body but it does not seem to fit. It seems the seal retainer is to big unless I really force the seal retainer in the shock body.
Is this normal? I have attached a picture of the set-up.
Thanks in advance.
I am about to insert the shock shaft into the shock body but it does not seem to fit. It seems the seal retainer is to big unless I really force the seal retainer in the shock body.
Is this normal? I have attached a picture of the set-up.
Thanks in advance.
11-08-2009, 10:50 PM
Tech Adept
Are people swapping out the belts to so called "low friction" variants?. I saw on Keven Hebert's TC5 from the IIC that he ran normal TC5 belts. Are "low friction" belts necassary, or people even cutting the teeth on the belts?
11-08-2009, 11:49 PM
I used the Exotek lower layshaft and what some people do is cut the every other teeth on the pulley to free it up. I soaked my belts to wd-40 for 4 days before installing it.