Team Associated TC5
04-28-2009, 01:14 PM
#9391
It's kinda like raising and lowering the hinge pins to an extent. Lowering tends to give more grip and less response, raising removes some grip and quickens response. It also interplays with the hinge pin height somewhat as well. It is a fine tuning thing, if your car is "stuck" in the middle of the corner for example, raising the rear diff can help free it up.
05-01-2009, 11:46 AM
#9392
alright this is a 13.5 10.5 gearing question. i have heard from from serious onraod guys that the tc5 should be geared around 4.0 final drive. has anyone got any comments on this. if this is the case then i would need to gear about 37/75 in order to get that drive.
05-01-2009, 12:04 PM
#9393
depending on the size of track you are running on a 4.55 should be more than enough. i run mine on a 120x60 track with a 120 foot straight and i am running a 13.5 xcellerin with a 30 pinion and a 75 spur which puts me at 4.55 which is more than enough.
05-01-2009, 12:28 PM
#9394
Yes we do have a full ceramic bearing set for the Associated TC5. It's $89.99 and we don't use grease, only our SIN very light synthetic oil.
Thanks!
Thanks!
05-01-2009, 01:01 PM
#9395
). Anyone looking should give them a try, price isnt horrible and they seem to be very nice
05-01-2009, 07:11 PM
#9397
Raising the diff will result in more onpower traction in the end you raised the diff. For example, putting the front diff to
the highest position and rear diff to the lowest position will give you the most onpower steering and vice versa. I normally
run mine mid low both ends, sometimes mid high in the front. If the driveshafts are straight your car will the more neutral
on and off power. The driveshafts try to straighten out when accelerating which causes the handling effects.
The center of gravitys effect is minimal. The diffs weigh less than 10g. Try taping a 10g lead weight on the topdeck and see
if it makes a difference That is 10x bigger change on the center of gravity than the diffheight and you probably wont be
able to tell a difference.
05-01-2009, 11:08 PM
#9399
Tech Initiate
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Too close to the great mouse house known as Disney World.
Posts: 34
Juho Levanen from AE said this when asked about diff heights:
Raising the diff will result in more onpower traction in the end you raised the diff. For example, putting the front diff to
the highest position and rear diff to the lowest position will give you the most onpower steering and vice versa. I normally
run mine mid low both ends, sometimes mid high in the front. If the driveshafts are straight your car will the more neutral
on and off power. The driveshafts try to straighten out when accelerating which causes the handling effects.
The center of gravitys effect is minimal. The diffs weigh less than 10g. Try taping a 10g lead weight on the topdeck and see
if it makes a difference That is 10x bigger change on the center of gravity than the diffheight and you probably wont be
able to tell a difference.
Raising the diff will result in more onpower traction in the end you raised the diff. For example, putting the front diff to
the highest position and rear diff to the lowest position will give you the most onpower steering and vice versa. I normally
run mine mid low both ends, sometimes mid high in the front. If the driveshafts are straight your car will the more neutral
on and off power. The driveshafts try to straighten out when accelerating which causes the handling effects.
The center of gravitys effect is minimal. The diffs weigh less than 10g. Try taping a 10g lead weight on the topdeck and see
if it makes a difference That is 10x bigger change on the center of gravity than the diffheight and you probably wont be
able to tell a difference.
05-01-2009, 11:41 PM
#9400
so what does anyone think if i run 34/74 with a 10.5?
05-03-2009, 06:14 PM
#9404
Just got the TC5 back together with a new rubber / asphalt setup and wanted to report back on it. I'm running the Rick Hohwart Worlds SU seen here.
First impression was excellent! Car felt very predictable, easy to drive with plenty of steering. The back seems well planted even though this is a 2.5 deg. rear tow setup. I've always had trouble getting away from 3.0 degs rear tow...this seems to have solved that.
One note...the SU uses the upper "B" arm mounts and 6 deg caster blocks. I have the Diggity 6 deg. caster blocks and found that there is not enough clearance on the inside lower angle cut...it hits the arm before you can get to 2.5mm (7.5 on gage) droop. In fact I was lucky to get 1mm droop from it.
After tearing alot of stuff back down trying to find the problem, grinding some clearance on the blocks and getting back together...it was well worth the effort. Need to get back on the timed track to tell for sure but wanted to report the potential issue. I'm very excited about this car again after trying this setup!! Thanks Rick and team AE for another great option.
First impression was excellent! Car felt very predictable, easy to drive with plenty of steering. The back seems well planted even though this is a 2.5 deg. rear tow setup. I've always had trouble getting away from 3.0 degs rear tow...this seems to have solved that.
One note...the SU uses the upper "B" arm mounts and 6 deg caster blocks. I have the Diggity 6 deg. caster blocks and found that there is not enough clearance on the inside lower angle cut...it hits the arm before you can get to 2.5mm (7.5 on gage) droop. In fact I was lucky to get 1mm droop from it.
After tearing alot of stuff back down trying to find the problem, grinding some clearance on the blocks and getting back together...it was well worth the effort. Need to get back on the timed track to tell for sure but wanted to report the potential issue. I'm very excited about this car again after trying this setup!! Thanks Rick and team AE for another great option.
05-03-2009, 10:32 PM
#9405
Anyone have any suggestions on gearing for a TC5 with an spx on power mode 8 and a 13.5?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance