xtrememadness

iTrader: (2)

hey everyone. we just got 2 itf chassis at my hobby shop. i went to put one on my car and i noticed that i couldnt tighten my bulkheads. upon further inspection i found that the chassis is countersunk two deep and the countersunk part of the screw sticks above the chassis. both chassis are this way. has anyone else had this problem? maybe josh or rick can shed some light. are they just defective maybe? thanx alot

jag88

iTrader: (1)

Yea, your the one that got me thinkin' that way ....... but I'll give it another chance this Tuesday.

bob o

iTrader: (2)

Extrememadness
Do to the ITF chassis plates being a little thinner, the counter sunk screws will be exposed more.
All I did was take a counter sink tool and do the bulkheads slightly. That should fix your problem and it will NOT hurt the threaded portion at all.
Bob Oaks

xtrememadness

iTrader: (2)

that will work but im wondering if the chassis is too thin in those areas now because this isnt a problem in the tc5r kits or are the bulkheads countersunk in the kits. im just wondering if there was a screw up on the chassis because they seem to be ok in the rubber car kits

Takt

iTrader: (15)

Went out and bought an 88 spur ... and tried the 41 ... and I couldn't get mesh. I would need a 5 tooth larger pinion. What did I do wrong?

PartTime

iTrader: (10)

Cool, see you tue.

DK

Josh Hohnstein

iTrader: (3)

That looks to be a mistake on my part.........A 98 spur and 46 pinion will definitly work

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

I've been running a 94t spur in both 17.5 and 13.5 foam classes. I think a smaller spur is needed for 17.5 when using a pinion larger than 56t - you run out of space when tightening the motor.

xtrememadness

iTrader: (2)

has anyone else had the countersinking problem on the itf chassis. just wondering if i should send it back or modify the bulkheads. thanx

naggalowmo

iTrader: (5)

Use a shorter screw. Mine is flush and perfect. No need to mod anything.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

The ITF Chassis is 2mm thick. When any company countersinks 2mm carbon they can choose to partially countersink and let all the screw heads stick out the bottom of the chassis or make them flush and have part of the scews taper pop out the top of the chassis and hit all the alloy parts. If they chose the latter you will need to get a countersink and relieve the bottom of all the alloy parts that screw to the chassis if the manufacturer has not done so already.

mr crum

iTrader: (5)

hey guys im having trouble with breaking bone blades i know the ultimate way to quit from breaking them is to not hit stuff but im not that good so does anybody make a spool that doesnt take bone blades or should i run the slipper spool thanks in advance for the help

islander360

iTrader: (42)

Mr crum,

I recommend running the slipper spool.

xtrememadness

iTrader: (2)

thanx adrian. i agree with you, but i just dont think you should have to do this modification. it should of been done by associated unless its a defect. i cant imagine associated expecting everyone with a rubber kit and itf chassis to have to counter sink a relief in the bulkheads. for example the tamiya 415msxx has a 2mm chassis and the screws fit flush and perfect so maybe they just need screws with a smaller countersunk shoulder?? i mean its no big deal for me cause i have access to a machine shop but alot of people might not or have the countersink bit. just my 2 cents.

mr crum

iTrader: (5)

thanks sherwin other than that ive been workin on getting smoother i kept breaking rear hubs but i moved the camber link to the whole further out on the wheel so the force is more up and down instead of the whole closest to the bulkhead thats where i had it when they kept breaking