Team Associated TC5
11-10-2008, 08:31 PM
#7831
Tech Regular
Use the included black shock tool too force that piece in, It's a pain to push in and and even bigger pain to remove. This is an area where ae should have clarified in the manual but they did not.
11-10-2008, 11:00 PM
#7832
As long as we're asking questions, I'm having a helluva time keeping my lipo in place.
Yes I know, I shouldn't be hitting things but I'm a noob and I do bump the pipes on occasion.
The battery will either move outwards pushing the front fender out or it will shift inwards, rubbing the belt and putting excess tension on it.
I'm using the intellect 3800 packs which have the "bumps" on the bottom. They aren't wide enough for one thing so the pack can slide left/right about a 1/4 inch. I'm using the stock hold-down strap and screws. Is there a solid alternative or method to keep the battery in place? I don't expect it to stay put if I really clock something hard, but I'd like it to stay put with a small or moderate bump.
Yes I know, I shouldn't be hitting things but I'm a noob and I do bump the pipes on occasion.
The battery will either move outwards pushing the front fender out or it will shift inwards, rubbing the belt and putting excess tension on it.
I'm using the intellect 3800 packs which have the "bumps" on the bottom. They aren't wide enough for one thing so the pack can slide left/right about a 1/4 inch. I'm using the stock hold-down strap and screws. Is there a solid alternative or method to keep the battery in place? I don't expect it to stay put if I really clock something hard, but I'd like it to stay put with a small or moderate bump.
11-11-2008, 02:23 AM
#7833
battery
Heres what I did so I could run lipos and standard battery strap.
The battery strap holes need to be tapered so the nut fits flush .
The screws in the post -undo so its slightly above the battery strap and the nut fits well.
The battery plate has a strip of lead length of the battery glued in place slight off centre so the battery fits correctly and plugs line up ok through the top deck.
The battery will never slide out this way!
The battery strap holes need to be tapered so the nut fits flush .
The screws in the post -undo so its slightly above the battery strap and the nut fits well.
The battery plate has a strip of lead length of the battery glued in place slight off centre so the battery fits correctly and plugs line up ok through the top deck.
The battery will never slide out this way!
Last edited by yeahyeah; 11-11-2008 at 03:03 AM.
11-11-2008, 06:02 AM
#7834
gearing
Hey, im sure it was somewhere in the 262 posts that this topic has, but thats really alot to go through. Just wondering what some of you are running gearing wise, whats the internal gear ratio of the TC5r? Also what seems to be the best way to gear it for a 13.5 and a 17.5?
thanks for the help,
Tenpins77
thanks for the help,
Tenpins77
11-11-2008, 07:03 AM
#7835
Hey, im sure it was somewhere in the 262 posts that this topic has, but thats really alot to go through. Just wondering what some of you are running gearing wise, whats the internal gear ratio of the TC5r? Also what seems to be the best way to gear it for a 13.5 and a 17.5?
thanks for the help,
Tenpins77
thanks for the help,
Tenpins77
Gearing depends on track size and what type of motor and speedo.
With that being said......I gear my Trinity duo 13.5 at 100/41 which is 4.88 this is on a 100 x 50 track
For a Trinity 17.5 duo I gear at 100/45 which is a 4.44
I use an lrp speedo with full punch.
Josh Hohnstein
11-11-2008, 07:30 AM
#7836
If anyone is looking for an ITF chassis and topdeck, I have 'em available in the "for sale" section: http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-top-deck.html
11-11-2008, 12:17 PM
#7837
I've read page 1 to 160ish and the most recent pages, did a search.. and somewhere between post 160 something and now I've found alittle info but trying to determine the exact diffrences in the org, f & r kits...
30103 TC5 original
30104 TC5F
30105 TC5R
I'm guessin the org kit is the F kit and the R kit has the itf top plate, spool? Are there more diffences? any part updates (incase I find a deal on an org kit)? I'm running on foams/carpet but want to know everthing different. AE site isn't much help...they usually have a compare link on there models.
Thanks guys.
30103 TC5 original
30104 TC5F
30105 TC5R
I'm guessin the org kit is the F kit and the R kit has the itf top plate, spool? Are there more diffences? any part updates (incase I find a deal on an org kit)? I'm running on foams/carpet but want to know everthing different. AE site isn't much help...they usually have a compare link on there models.
Thanks guys.
11-11-2008, 12:50 PM
#7839
I've read page 1 to 160ish and the most recent pages, did a search.. and somewhere between post 160 something and now I've found alittle info but trying to determine the exact diffrences in the org, f & r kits...
30103 TC5 original
30104 TC5F
30105 TC5R
I'm guessin the org kit is the F kit and the R kit has the itf top plate, spool? Are there more diffences? any part updates (incase I find a deal on an org kit)? I'm running on foams/carpet but want to know everthing different. AE site isn't much help...they usually have a compare link on there models.
Thanks guys.
30103 TC5 original
30104 TC5F
30105 TC5R
I'm guessin the org kit is the F kit and the R kit has the itf top plate, spool? Are there more diffences? any part updates (incase I find a deal on an org kit)? I'm running on foams/carpet but want to know everthing different. AE site isn't much help...they usually have a compare link on there models.
Thanks guys.
30104 is the F kit and comes with the new diff cams, aluminum out-drives, the thick top deck and chassis, and two diffs (I think it comes with the hard plastics).
30105 is the R kit and comes with the new diff cams, aluminum out-drives, and the ITF top deck and chassis, and one diff and one slipper spool (comes with the regular plastics).
If you are gonna run foam buy the TC5F...you could but the 30103, but you should probably upgrade to the aluminum out-drives at the least.
11-11-2008, 01:20 PM
#7840
30103 kit is the orignal kit
30104 is the F kit and comes with the new diff cams, aluminum out-drives, the thick top deck and chassis, and two diffs (I think it comes with the hard plastics).
30105 is the R kit and comes with the new diff cams, aluminum out-drives, and the ITF top deck and chassis, and one diff and one slipper spool (comes with the regular plastics).
If you are gonna run foam buy the TC5F...you could but the 30103, but you should probably upgrade to the aluminum out-drives at the least.
30104 is the F kit and comes with the new diff cams, aluminum out-drives, the thick top deck and chassis, and two diffs (I think it comes with the hard plastics).
30105 is the R kit and comes with the new diff cams, aluminum out-drives, and the ITF top deck and chassis, and one diff and one slipper spool (comes with the regular plastics).
If you are gonna run foam buy the TC5F...you could but the 30103, but you should probably upgrade to the aluminum out-drives at the least.
Yep, I'll go w/ the F for the newer goodies..was also wondering the cost differences but alum & parts explain it!Thanks!!!!
11-11-2008, 01:51 PM
#7841
I bought a one-way brand new. I ran it for practice and 1 heat, and don't remember hitting anything real hard, and it was very twitchy, so I took it out.
I put it back in, and now only one side is spinning freely ... the other has noticable drag.
Does anyone have any suggestions? Did I mess it up? How do you clean the bearings inside?
Thanks in advance....
I put it back in, and now only one side is spinning freely ... the other has noticable drag.
Does anyone have any suggestions? Did I mess it up? How do you clean the bearings inside?
Thanks in advance....
11-11-2008, 02:23 PM
#7842
Hey, I am trying to figure out everything and things are going pretty well, I tried a spool and hated it, so I put the diff back in and liked that much better...I would like to try a one way but now i hear talk of the slipper spool. Are a 1 way and a slipper spool the same thing? If not whats the difference?
11-11-2008, 02:29 PM
#7843
A one-way (bearing) lets either wheel spin independently of the other, so the outside wheel can accelerate faster than the inside one in a turn, it only allows the wheels to turn forward. A slipper spool acts like a very very tight diff, but has some give (wheels can be turned in opposition to each other) unlike a locked spool.
11-11-2008, 07:17 PM
#7844
The internal for the tc5 is 2.0
Gearing depends on track size and what type of motor and speedo.
With that being said......I gear my Trinity duo 13.5 at 100/41 which is 4.88 this is on a 100 x 50 track
For a Trinity 17.5 duo I gear at 100/45 which is a 4.44
I use an lrp speedo with full punch.
Josh Hohnstein
Gearing depends on track size and what type of motor and speedo.
With that being said......I gear my Trinity duo 13.5 at 100/41 which is 4.88 this is on a 100 x 50 track
For a Trinity 17.5 duo I gear at 100/45 which is a 4.44
I use an lrp speedo with full punch.
Josh Hohnstein
tenpins77
11-12-2008, 01:58 PM
#7845
I am having trouble burning up rear diff's and am in need of some suggestions on a possible fix. I have the original TC-5 and was having problems melting the rear plastic diff. Yes it would actually melt the diff rung to the outdrive. I switched to aluminum on both front and rear and am still having probs with only the rear diff! I do not beleive it's a tightening issue and the bearings are fine. This is the second season I have run the car and I honestly thought the alum diff would solve the problem. Again I am having no issues with the front diff at all. If it helps we run 13.5 LiPo on Jaco Greens.