Knight Rider

Thanks. Not to sound like a d!ck but I realize that. I should have been more specific, my bad.

How do you adjust for that with the foams and bladder?

B4Bandit

iTrader: (10)

Actually, I'm with you there. I find it difficult to get small amounts of rebound even with the small piece of foam/no foam. I imagine I have too much oil...

Anyone have tips on how they build their shocks? I'm so used to the standard AE shocks?

B4Bandit

iTrader: (10)

I notice on the U.S. set up sheets that the rear arm mounts are 3A Rear and 2A front. This is pro squat correct?

(edit)
Whoops, I think that I read this wrong... Both the rear arm mounts are 3A I think...

Rommel

iTrader: (3)

I use the Platinium Lipos in my TC5 and use these on the front part of battery tray to secure batteries:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LX2778

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

Unreel.... Got my kit and start to put the diffs together... The nut piece that the nut goes into... Well when you put the nut in the diff and tighten it, it breaks off the ears... both of them, so now I have two broken diffs.

Any ideas????

I attached a picture to show you what broke right off, with hardly any pressure.

B4Bandit

iTrader: (10)

Are you sure that you had the nut properly seated? It has to go into the T-holder quite snugly and it is hard to get in.

If the "t" bits snapped off while you were tightening the diff, this may have been the case because the t's would have gotten to their stop point well before the bolt was tightened.

Maybell

iTrader: (2)

I think B4bandit is correct...something wierd must of happened when you put the diffs together...sorry that happened man, that sucks...when you get new nut-retainers, use a medium sized phillips head to push the nut all the way into the retainer...you probably did this...but something strange happened...can you explain how you build diffs in detail? maybe that might help all of us solve this so you can get back out on the track again...

Sean

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

Sorry to hear of that...they are available though as I got spares. 2 things to check. As pointed out, I used a dowel pin to seat mine and even a slight tap with small hammer to be certain. And also, DO pre compress the spring to help pull it in some before putting the diff together. If you didn't do that you are pulling extra torque against those tabs, that could possibly contribute to your problem. Other then that... over tightening, and defective nut retainer is about all thats left.

Cyclone Charlie

Breaking off those ears can happen if you install the bolt and t-nut on the wrong sides of the diff halves. I almost did it and caught myself before I did any damage to the t-nut.

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

Thanks guys, the problem I did not have the nut all the way in, so I thought I could pull it into place... Opps....

What I did is cut the tabs out and used an allen wrench (the same size as the nut) and it work great, so I have a T-nut with out the tabs...

Building the shocks... boy that was fun... Does any one have any suggestions how to get the top foam in place, following the directions it wrong when I take the cap off and look at it... I'm thinking of using a socket to push all the parts for the top in place first...

JuhoL

If you want almost no rebound forget about the foams. I never use them myself.
Here's how I build mine:

1. Fill the shock with oil
2.Push the shaft almost all the way in(about as far as how much rebound you want)
3. Put the bladder on the shock and press all the extra oil out so it sits nicely on the shock. You can use your finger or an allen wrench to get the extra oil out. It's a bit easier to get the cap on if you pull the shaft out at this point. It's easy to get air into the shock though, since you get negative pressure in the shock.
4. Put the black piece on the shock
5. Put the rest of the cap on. I normally put the threaded piece over the black one and hold the black piece against the shock with my finger while tightening the threaded(blue) piece.

I hope this helps

B4Bandit

iTrader: (10)

Hey thanks Juho, that sounds good, I'll fix them this week.

Any big races for you coming up soon? Good luck man

Cheers,
Warwick.

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

the real question is, why does the car have that same nut in cup system that HPI had 10 years ago,and prooved to be such a problem,that the pro 4 and cyclone went to the moulded nut like associated?...


and while I'm at it,I'm really thinking of this car....I will get the chance to drive one next week...among a field of 07's......and I looked at one real close for an hour yesterday......

I found the slop in the car,esp the front hubs and ball bearings,to be little disconcerting......compared to the 07 sitting right next to it.....

why no rubber pin sleeves to get some life out of the outdrives,and take up slop?....

also,I didn't notice any place for screw on weights.....

I thought the sway bar system to be very nice,I esp like the lower mounting points......and the car looks less complicated than the 07...a little cleaner,if you will......

balance is critical for me.....has anyone weighed the car,side to side,with a 4800 in it?.........

anyway,these aren't flames....just looking for a new car to replace the pro 4........which,BTW,with a brushless 4.5.is proving to be way less maintenance than the 07's I'm running against........I've been using the same set of rd 30's since the HPI challenge in oct last year,and have 20 heats on the tires in the last 3weeks........the 4.5 comes off the track at 122 degrees.....thethe diffs,now that I've shimmed them....(and went to the CYCLONE nut)...are great....

from what I can see,the 07's are a bear on tires....and no one seems to be able to gear the car with a 4.5....the guys are coming off the track at 170 degrees...

BTW,how are the gearing options on the car for brushless?.....do all the gears fit?.....and tire wear on asphalt?......

thanks

B4Bandit

iTrader: (10)

Het Fast Harry,

I can see where you are coming from in regard to the slop, and I don't know what Associated plan on doing. Frankly I can't see that much of an issue because the cars are doing very very well. And pin sleeves - I don't know but I don't think that they are necessary.

In regard to balancing etc, you need to read throught the past 20 pages or so of these posts (and also check out the 5 cell threads) because it seems that many people aren't worrying too much about exact balance and it isn't costing them much in lap times. There are some weights of the car posted earlier but I don't know if it factored in the batteries, also discussion about gearing. I don't think any of the mod guys are having trouble.

Wait until you wheel the car. Everyone has found that with the right setup, this car is really very good - quite easy to work on (pinion gears are a little tricky to change). Good luck!!!

Warwick.

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

the slop does bother me,I have to admit....when my PRO4 seems like a better car quality wise,It makes me think thunder tiger RTR quality has hit AREA 51....

even my TC3 nitro,and B4 seem way better plastic wise.....

but,if you guys are happy,its worth a shot...

I read the last 20 pages,but didn't see anything as to adding weights,or if there is a place to screw on weights(I read the manual also)....

and as far as gearing,I noticed on the o7 xray,the higher drive ratio combos don't work.......the spurs get to big and stick out the chassis,and the motor wont take a 13 tooth with the biggest spur....so I wanted to know,if anyone is having problems with gearing the car so it can run a 4.5 bl at a COMFORTABLE temp,,,,,

btw,how easy is it to change those roll center blocks for the roll center and anti squat?...