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Old 12-15-2002, 07:17 AM
  #31  
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Not to be a wise ass or anything but isn't stainless, steel,they hold up just as well as the kit screws.
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Old 12-15-2002, 07:57 AM
  #32  
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I would also recommend using TiR screws. I use then in my offroad cars and XXXS Graphite and love them.

I also use the Trinity spur adapter but with RW Spur Gears. They are the hardest and truest spurs I ever used.These are alot thinner than most 64p standard spurs and work well with the Losi car. They are imported by Power International I believe.I would give them a try.
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Old 12-15-2002, 04:05 PM
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There are different grades of steel screws. The screws included in associated and losi kits are grade 10.9, it isn't any stronger then grade 18-8 stainless.
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Old 12-15-2002, 04:38 PM
  #34  
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Originally posted by futureal
It's important that you use the tapping screw on all of the chassis and bulkhead holes before screwing in the steel screws, otherwise you will definitely see some stripping, no matter how careful you are.
Yes, what happens if you dont use a tapping screw on some cars is the screw pushes the dug out material to the bottom of the hole, then the screw hits on that and cant go any deeper, so when you turn it more is strips the threads...

Josh
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Old 12-15-2002, 05:48 PM
  #35  
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Right, that is especially true on set screws that are made for anchoring things like hinge pins. Always run the set screw all the way through the hole first to thread it, BEFORE inserting the pin (or whatever is to be captured). This will drive the excess material out, which you can then clean up. If you don't, you will strip the piece right away. This holds very true for the Losi cars with the captured hinge pins.
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Old 12-15-2002, 06:01 PM
  #36  
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Originally posted by futureal
Right, that is especially true on set screws that are made for anchoring things like hinge pins. Always run the set screw all the way through the hole first to thread it, BEFORE inserting the pin (or whatever is to be captured). This will drive the excess material out, which you can then clean up. If you don't, you will strip the piece right away. This holds very true for the Losi cars with the captured hinge pins.

i learned that the hard way, i stripped the hole in the rear hub where the pin goes that holds the hinge pin. . i havent even run my car now i have to buy parts already
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Old 12-15-2002, 06:15 PM
  #37  
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I don't use the set screws on my hubs ..I picked up small eclips that fit the pins, never have to worry about the set scrw dealie again
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Old 12-15-2002, 06:21 PM
  #38  
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anyone of u guys using spool? is there an advantage over ball?
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Old 12-15-2002, 07:45 PM
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Messed around with it today. Has more pull comming out of the turns and the sense of a little more speed going in (not sure)... Give it a try... takes 5 minutes to do... You can just tighten your front diff all the way down for a few laps... feels the same.

It's a little different to control though. (kinda twitchy comming out of turn)
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Old 12-15-2002, 08:36 PM
  #40  
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have u tried the overdrive/underdrive setup? how was it? ive seen a lot of setups with standard 42/42.
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Old 12-15-2002, 09:21 PM
  #41  
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Hey all

Havent got my kit yet am waitting for kits to get to NZ

But a question.

Do you use the tapping screw for every screw that goes in?

Eg i havent seen it so please bear with me is it a quite fine thread or course thread and do you use it for tapping fine screws if its a course tapping screw.

Thanks for ya help but am getting a bit confused when reading ya postes.

Thanks Ryan
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Old 12-16-2002, 08:47 AM
  #42  
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Ryan C - yes every hole, although it's easier (IMO) to user a "real" 4-40 tap and t-handle.
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Old 12-16-2002, 01:22 PM
  #43  
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Anyone have a killer setup on carpet with out the use of a oneway or post the oneway setup I just need something else to try.
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Old 12-16-2002, 01:50 PM
  #44  
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Jesse, what tires are you running?
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Old 12-16-2002, 05:44 PM
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Futureal-

I was thinking this thread should be merged into the other...
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