Yokomo MR-4 TC Thread
#676
Tech Initiate
I know how that is,
I use the hardened Yoke Fronts, and the blue aluminums for the back. I've hit some boards that I know would have bent the alum fronts. Hardened Yoke fronts working well for me. Someone here posted before that they use the MIP's . I also have a set of the MIP's but I have not had to use them yet. Look sturdy though. Plus you know the quality of MIP.
I use the hardened Yoke Fronts, and the blue aluminums for the back. I've hit some boards that I know would have bent the alum fronts. Hardened Yoke fronts working well for me. Someone here posted before that they use the MIP's . I also have a set of the MIP's but I have not had to use them yet. Look sturdy though. Plus you know the quality of MIP.
#677
Traction rolls
We have a lot of grip on our carpet and the car wants to roll over, most fast guys are running stiff springs with heavy weight oil and their cars are planted (no Yokomo's).
We are running CS22,CS27 with standard inserts. Orange 80wt front Green 60wt rear, no sway bars. The TC3's are using 35lbs/30lbs springs! Do I go softer or stiffer? HPI green inserts seem to be the hot ticket as far as inserts go. I think the grip of the Take Off's are similar to Sorex.
We are running CS22,CS27 with standard inserts. Orange 80wt front Green 60wt rear, no sway bars. The TC3's are using 35lbs/30lbs springs! Do I go softer or stiffer? HPI green inserts seem to be the hot ticket as far as inserts go. I think the grip of the Take Off's are similar to Sorex.
#678
I wouldn't think the Take-offs would be quite as good as sorex, but go with whatever the fast guys are using. Orange is the stiffest MR-4 spring, try the GT4 springs, same length but stiffer. kentech has a chart on his site.
I'm the one who uses the shiny MIP's. I was using them all round, but have recently switched to using them only in the front. The quality I think is a little better, and they are cheaper. I also find that with the MIP's on carpet, the pick up less carpet hair. WIth the MIP's I get none, but with the yoks I have to pull carpet hair out of them. I think it is due to the MIP's cup design, but the yok ones are open.
Josh
I'm the one who uses the shiny MIP's. I was using them all round, but have recently switched to using them only in the front. The quality I think is a little better, and they are cheaper. I also find that with the MIP's on carpet, the pick up less carpet hair. WIth the MIP's I get none, but with the yoks I have to pull carpet hair out of them. I think it is due to the MIP's cup design, but the yok ones are open.
Josh
#679
Question for you guys. I need to make the car more responsive, just a little. Currently I'm running 40wt and #3's all around. Would switching to 50wt with #2's make the car more responsive? Rather, would the change in piston have a bigger effect than the change in oil?
Josh
Josh
#680
Run 30wt. It'll make transitions faster. If you use 50wt, it'll react slower. Think of it like water vs. syrup. Water in your shocks will rebound super fast. Syrup will be like turtle slow rebound time. Hope this helps some. Remember, if you up the oil wt., it'll take more time for the car to rebound back to center. So goin into a fast chican, you turn left and then right, but your car hasn't reacted yet and your car still wants to go left. Blah blah blah, am I making sense here? Want some candy! (Preditor 2) Happy Halloween!
Jimmy
Jimmy
#681
Yeah, I know all that. I'm on carpet though, and we run a heavier weight fluid. What I am asking is if 50wt and #2's will make the car more responsive than 40wt and #3's. So, does the smaller piston have a bigger difference than the heavier oil, or vice versa? Because my car is almost there, but I need a little bit more responsiveness. However, not a lot, so I though I would try 50 and #2's, thinking it will allow the shocks to rebound faster with the larger pistons. I would put 50wt oil in so that the effect wouldn't be as pronounced as 40wt with #2's, because I only need a little more responsiveness.
#682
Tech Regular
Da4head: Just go for the MIP's.
#683
Speedo,
I have extensively tested all the Sorex and all the Take Off compounds and the Take Offs are better on just about every surface.
Also, the inserts that come with the Take Offs are perfect for those tires. Takes a lot of hassle out of it and makes it cheaper.
I have extensively tested all the Sorex and all the Take Off compounds and the Take Offs are better on just about every surface.
Also, the inserts that come with the Take Offs are perfect for those tires. Takes a lot of hassle out of it and makes it cheaper.
#684
Even carpet?
#685
Setups
I've been going through some of the links in this thread and I'm finding a lot of useful information, thanks to all. I have notice that we have been running the castor block in the 2 position in the front a-arms. I am planning to go to the 1 position and perhaps this will tone the car down in the corners. Also we are using #2 pistons when most setups are recommending the #3 so we'll try that. I'll start with 70wt front 60wt rear and green spring all around.
We have had our car come around going into corners, so I think I have to play with the rear shock and get a bit more down travel to keep the tire in contact with the carpet. I have the new rear a-arms with the lower shock mounting position, I am presently on position 5 on the tower 2 on the arm. If I use the 4 hole on the arm I could get more down travel and spring possibilities. Has anyone tried?
I have some Sorex on order 24R and 28R, but I think the Take Off's are good as well.
We have had our car come around going into corners, so I think I have to play with the rear shock and get a bit more down travel to keep the tire in contact with the carpet. I have the new rear a-arms with the lower shock mounting position, I am presently on position 5 on the tower 2 on the arm. If I use the 4 hole on the arm I could get more down travel and spring possibilities. Has anyone tried?
I have some Sorex on order 24R and 28R, but I think the Take Off's are good as well.
#686
Tech Initiate
Speedo,
Using a heavier oil will make the car more responsive. The energy will be sent to the tires faster because of the slightly stiffer suspension. This is what I've been told and actually experimented with. Notice on the special, oil weights have come down to calm the car down. If you have a thinner oil more of the energy is spent through spring compression, before it "hits the tires". Thickening up the oil but keeping the same springs will send the energy to the tires faster. After reading your post again, it sounds like we are thinking alike.
Steve
Using a heavier oil will make the car more responsive. The energy will be sent to the tires faster because of the slightly stiffer suspension. This is what I've been told and actually experimented with. Notice on the special, oil weights have come down to calm the car down. If you have a thinner oil more of the energy is spent through spring compression, before it "hits the tires". Thickening up the oil but keeping the same springs will send the energy to the tires faster. After reading your post again, it sounds like we are thinking alike.
Steve
Originally posted by Speedo
Yeah, I know all that. I'm on carpet though, and we run a heavier weight fluid. What I am asking is if 50wt and #2's will make the car more responsive than 40wt and #3's. So, does the smaller piston have a bigger difference than the heavier oil, or vice versa? Because my car is almost there, but I need a little bit more responsiveness. However, not a lot, so I though I would try 50 and #2's, thinking it will allow the shocks to rebound faster with the larger pistons. I would put 50wt oil in so that the effect wouldn't be as pronounced as 40wt with #2's, because I only need a little more responsiveness.
Yeah, I know all that. I'm on carpet though, and we run a heavier weight fluid. What I am asking is if 50wt and #2's will make the car more responsive than 40wt and #3's. So, does the smaller piston have a bigger difference than the heavier oil, or vice versa? Because my car is almost there, but I need a little bit more responsiveness. However, not a lot, so I though I would try 50 and #2's, thinking it will allow the shocks to rebound faster with the larger pistons. I would put 50wt oil in so that the effect wouldn't be as pronounced as 40wt with #2's, because I only need a little more responsiveness.
#687
Tech Initiate
Originally posted by StMedina
Speedo,
Using a heavier oil will make the car more responsive. The energy will be sent to the tires faster because of the slightly stiffer suspension. This does not have to do with returning to center. This is what I've been told and actually experimented with. Notice on the special, oil weights have come down to calm the car down. With the added response that the special offers because of chassis design, to calm some of that down, oil weights have come down. If you have a thinner oil more of the energy is spent through spring compression, before it "hits the tires". Thickening up the oil but keeping the same springs will send the energy to the tires faster. The faster the energy hits the tires, the more responsive the car will be. After reading your post again, it sounds like we are thinking alike.
Hope I'm right, because I would look like an idiot if MO came on and told me otherwise. But hey if that's the case, then that's what the message board is all about.
Steve
Speedo,
Using a heavier oil will make the car more responsive. The energy will be sent to the tires faster because of the slightly stiffer suspension. This does not have to do with returning to center. This is what I've been told and actually experimented with. Notice on the special, oil weights have come down to calm the car down. With the added response that the special offers because of chassis design, to calm some of that down, oil weights have come down. If you have a thinner oil more of the energy is spent through spring compression, before it "hits the tires". Thickening up the oil but keeping the same springs will send the energy to the tires faster. The faster the energy hits the tires, the more responsive the car will be. After reading your post again, it sounds like we are thinking alike.
Hope I'm right, because I would look like an idiot if MO came on and told me otherwise. But hey if that's the case, then that's what the message board is all about.
Steve
#688
Originally posted by StMedina
Speedo,
Using a heavier oil will make the car more responsive. The energy will be sent to the tires faster because of the slightly stiffer suspension. This is what I've been told and actually experimented with. Notice on the special, oil weights have come down to calm the car down. If you have a thinner oil more of the energy is spent through spring compression, before it "hits the tires". Thickening up the oil but keeping the same springs will send the energy to the tires faster. After reading your post again, it sounds like we are thinking alike.
Steve
Speedo,
Using a heavier oil will make the car more responsive. The energy will be sent to the tires faster because of the slightly stiffer suspension. This is what I've been told and actually experimented with. Notice on the special, oil weights have come down to calm the car down. If you have a thinner oil more of the energy is spent through spring compression, before it "hits the tires". Thickening up the oil but keeping the same springs will send the energy to the tires faster. After reading your post again, it sounds like we are thinking alike.
Steve
Josh
#689
Awww..I'm getting confused now. I'm off to the Jet Hopper thread
Front belt tension....
I noticed last night that there is a small raised piece molded into the upper rear gearbox housing where the screw that goes through to the(Pro) motor mount is. You will have to file the top deck slightly(1.5cm wide, Directly next to the motor side of the spur) otherwise this little molding will stop the top deck and rear upper gearbox getting any closer when adjusting the torque rod.
I only discovered this last night.
Front belt tension....
I noticed last night that there is a small raised piece molded into the upper rear gearbox housing where the screw that goes through to the(Pro) motor mount is. You will have to file the top deck slightly(1.5cm wide, Directly next to the motor side of the spur) otherwise this little molding will stop the top deck and rear upper gearbox getting any closer when adjusting the torque rod.
I only discovered this last night.
#690
Josh and Speedo, your both kinda right in the wrong ways;
In suspension, oil absorbs energy and springs store it. Heavier oil will absorb more (slowing or controlling the motion) and will not release it afterwards, not in motion anyway. Stiffer springs will store more and it will be release afterwards. The way the oil absorbs (dampens) is the same in compression or rebound if the piston is symmetrical which you can safely assume that it is. I know it does not 'feel' that way to you but it is so.
Heavier oil absorbs more energy but it is also more difficult to transfer it from the wheel (inertia) so it stays longer in the tires on compression.
How all this affects the handling of the car is not always so clear.
...if only I knew why my car barrel rolls...
In suspension, oil absorbs energy and springs store it. Heavier oil will absorb more (slowing or controlling the motion) and will not release it afterwards, not in motion anyway. Stiffer springs will store more and it will be release afterwards. The way the oil absorbs (dampens) is the same in compression or rebound if the piston is symmetrical which you can safely assume that it is. I know it does not 'feel' that way to you but it is so.
Heavier oil absorbs more energy but it is also more difficult to transfer it from the wheel (inertia) so it stays longer in the tires on compression.
How all this affects the handling of the car is not always so clear.
...if only I knew why my car barrel rolls...