Yokomo MR-4 TC Thread
02-13-2007, 06:17 AM
#2806
Originally Posted by smojoe
the shaft that the spur gear attaches to and has the two pullies; one that goes to the front diff and one that goes to the rear? Is that the correct one though? If it is, JACKPOT
Wayne.. yeah.. while looking in my manual.. I got mixed up.. I thought I had an 87 tooth spur on it.. it is a 78tooth... so 35t for the pinion is a bit much. I have 25/78 now.. and I will try a 27t .. I am also not running the hottest batteries, so I want speed but not at the cost of coasting to the finish.
02-13-2007, 08:34 AM
#2807
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by Bikerbob
smojoe - I looked in my manual and the SHAFT that the part you listed goes on to is termed the layshaft. But that is a different part than the one you listed. The part you listed is the pulleys and the adaptor to fit the spur gear. But if you are talking about something that is wearing down from the drive belt.. teeth.. then I woiuld assume it is the part you listed... YES!
02-13-2007, 08:37 AM
#2808
Originally Posted by smojoe
Its been a while since I have even worked on my car, so I might be confusing it with the BD. There is a metal shaft that rides on bearings and has a hole drilled in it to hold a cross-pin that keeps the spur gear adapter/center belt pullies in "place." The thing that is messed up is the spur gear adapter/center belt pullies.
EXACTLY - and the item you listed from stormer is the gear adapter/centre belt pully part!
02-13-2007, 09:10 AM
#2809
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by Bikerbob
EXACTLY - and the item you listed from stormer is the gear adapter/centre belt pully part!
The front belt is the 179 tooth, correct? Might as well replace a few drivetrain parts while I am at it
02-13-2007, 09:28 AM
#2811
Originally Posted by smojoe
Sweet, now I just need $$$
The front belt is the 179 tooth, correct? Might as well replace a few drivetrain parts while I am at it
The front belt is the 179 tooth, correct? Might as well replace a few drivetrain parts while I am at it
BTW you can still get pretty much everything for this car from Yokomo directly.. they are CA based.. might even be cheaper than mailorder elsewhere.
02-13-2007, 10:45 PM
#2812
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by Bikerbob
You mentioned the BD.. do you run that car as well?
What has made you bring this car out of the closet?
Is it the SP ver. or a Pro or older?
What has made you bring this car out of the closet?
Is it the SP ver. or a Pro or older?
02-15-2007, 09:07 AM
#2813
At the moment the thing I am looking into for this is getting the SSG stuff from Yokomo or a Penguin Chassis.
Something with a Graphite plate so that batteries and weight distribution is more adjustable..
Also have to get off my butt and buy 2 more threaded aluminum shocks... I am running two plastic and 2 threaded.. lol - cheap bastard I am.. lol
Something with a Graphite plate so that batteries and weight distribution is more adjustable..
Also have to get off my butt and buy 2 more threaded aluminum shocks... I am running two plastic and 2 threaded.. lol - cheap bastard I am.. lol
02-18-2007, 12:30 PM
#2814
Tech Regular
02-19-2007, 01:42 AM
#2815
Tech Regular
02-19-2007, 06:42 AM
#2816
Well took my car racing on the weekend.. and it sucked.
I can set this car up for rubber.. and I can get it to run pretty good.
So far on carpet with foams.. crap.
I cannot dial out enough stearing.. I have my dual rate below 50.. I have stiff springs up front( going to try stiffer). Thing runs better with no compound on it at all. Hate not having droop screws.
I did still have the centre oneway in.. so I am taking that out. I was also told that my rear diff is much tighter than the front and the difference will cause the rear to get loose.. so i am rebuilding that.
This car is LIGHT as well.. at full trim I am 100grams shy of big race weight.
I think I need to get this thing balanced.. get the weight on it.. and then try again.
GOD this car need droop screws.. lol.. YES cant complain when I am the one deciding to run it.
That is my vote for best new innovation in RC.. not rebuilding your shocks, every race day.. and I do have to because the foams wear.
I can set this car up for rubber.. and I can get it to run pretty good.
So far on carpet with foams.. crap.
I cannot dial out enough stearing.. I have my dual rate below 50.. I have stiff springs up front( going to try stiffer). Thing runs better with no compound on it at all. Hate not having droop screws.
I did still have the centre oneway in.. so I am taking that out. I was also told that my rear diff is much tighter than the front and the difference will cause the rear to get loose.. so i am rebuilding that.
This car is LIGHT as well.. at full trim I am 100grams shy of big race weight.
I think I need to get this thing balanced.. get the weight on it.. and then try again.
GOD this car need droop screws.. lol.. YES cant complain when I am the one deciding to run it.
That is my vote for best new innovation in RC.. not rebuilding your shocks, every race day.. and I do have to because the foams wear.
02-20-2007, 09:59 AM
#2817
I ran a MR4-tc early in the season in a 19t rubber tire class on carpet. It worked well in that class. I made the A-main every time which is not bad for a car that I picked up off of ebay for under $20. Don't give up on it yet. I upgraded to a BD and it is a great car. I would recomend putting your car on someone's setup station like an Integy or Hudy and see what all of the settings are at and go from there.
John
John
02-20-2007, 10:33 AM
#2818
Originally Posted by jak43
I ran a MR4-tc early in the season in a 19t rubber tire class on carpet. It worked well in that class. I made the A-main every time which is not bad for a car that I picked up off of ebay for under $20. Don't give up on it yet. I upgraded to a BD and it is a great car. I would recomend putting your car on someone's setup station like an Integy or Hudy and see what all of the settings are at and go from there.
John
John
As for the BD.. I would love to go there.. but used they are still selling in the 250-300 range.. and I can pickup a T2 or FK04 for $150...Xray is all they sell at my track (all anyone buys) so as much as I HATE being a sheep and running what everyone else does, the only car you are safe with anywhere is associated... so maybe a TC5 in my future.
James
02-20-2007, 12:02 PM
#2819
Yeah, I don't like running the same car as everyone else does either. I'm the only one at the track with a Yokomo. Another guy runs a Corally. Otherwise everyone is running a Losi or TA05. I sold my spare parts MR4-TC to a guy and now he wants to get rid of it. I'll see if he still has it and let you know. Parts are'nt really an issue with it. The only thing I've broken is the steering blocks. I upgraded to aluminum blocks and have not had a problem yet.
I got my BD from a guy on here for $220 with parts. Just watch out and you can probably get one in the $200 range.
John
I got my BD from a guy on here for $220 with parts. Just watch out and you can probably get one in the $200 range.
John
03-01-2007, 05:00 PM
#2820
Hey Jak43, any news on that $20 car?? 
I am giving up on running this car with Foams... not worth all the hassle I think. It is not like I am competing with the fast guys and I am just not sure even with a newer car if I can be bothered chasing a setup all day.. aka foams.
Anywho.. My MR4-tc is back to rubber!!!
James
I am giving up on running this car with Foams... not worth all the hassle I think. It is not like I am competing with the fast guys and I am just not sure even with a newer car if I can be bothered chasing a setup all day.. aka foams.
Anywho.. My MR4-tc is back to rubber!!!
James