Nay0k

iTrader: (1)

Yes. Not to mention, the stock one that's included with the car sucks...

Kendall Welch

Well, I think Drake runs the stock servo horn and it holds up for him. The Losi car uses more plastic than other cars, but the webbing patterns that they use make the plastic very strong. I plan on using the stock horn on my 8ight for a while.

Gordkoff

iTrader: (2)

Go with the JP3... i have run both with my EB mod and there is no comparison...

Jagger

Hey all - I hate these types of questions but I need a little advice on motor selection.

I just ordered my 8ight and I'm stoked. I've "only" read about the first 42 pages of this thread so if this was asked before please be patient!


I've narrowed it down to 4 choices:

OS V-spec (but aren't there supposedly issues with the rear bearing)

Werks Team Line B7 7 port (don't know much about this motor)

Ninja MR21 B01 (Is the carb boot too big for the 8ight?)

Novarossi P5X (which one as there are too many in this motor's family!)

I have a JP-2 at home as well for pipe. I own a different EB Modded motor and I'm impressed - is the cost worth it?

thanks for the advice - I'll take advice and form an opinion from there!!! I sure hope this buggy is worth all this work to get it!!!

SCUBA STEVE

iTrader: (89)

It does work well but Adam does not wreck very often.

kyracer

The stock servo horn for the steering stripped out on me. I am thinking about going with a Al. servo horn for the steering.

Gordkoff

iTrader: (2)

There used to be an issue, and like all top end motor companies they made running changes. Any new OS you buy unless it has been sitting collecting dust at your LHS for a year will have new bearings in it.

I run an EB mod and it rips...

Have owned and a B7 and it is a good motor but not up to speed with the OS...

My .02 worth...

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

Well, I finally got to test my car. The track was in rough shape. It's been raining for weeks, so we spent the last few days vacuuming the water off. We finaly got it mostly dry, but it was sticky in places and real dry in others making it very tricky.

Like I said, I watched another 8ight do exactly what I wanted mine to. My theory was that thinner diff fluid in the center would give me more on-power steering. It did, but it also made it a little loose in places. So I went from the stock 5 7 2, to 5 5 2. I liked it, but again the track wasn't in the best shape. Today was a little different. the track was better, but hadn't yet blue grooved again, and was dusty in places. It was doing well, but I had a throttle issue(was closing very slowly towards the end, so when I let off, it kept on and would make the car push). I got that solved, then my clutch bell wore out!(my lash was too loose, and my motor mount was WAY STUCK, so I couldn't correct it, took me 20 minutes, a blow torch and 2 bent allen wrenches to get it off!). I finally started to get it back together...and it started raining again! So racing is on hold for now, but as soon as I get some really good tests done, I'll report back what I find.

kyracer

I was told the 5k,5k,2k is a good way to go. I ran the 5,5,3 first and it pushed onpower bad. I was thinking about trying the 5k.7k,2k. I never have ran it in the Losi but now the 5,5,2 is sounding the way to go.

I would think the 7k in the middle and use the thinnest front swaybar. Any input??

SCUBA STEVE

iTrader: (89)

I like 5,6,3 ..... but there are so many other variables to ones set-up and track condition

kyracer

True Steve,

I have only ran my buggy one time on a tight hard packed clay indoor track.
The setup I am using is the basic setup other then the 3/3 rear block and the rear camber links moved all the way in on the hub.

SCUBA STEVE

iTrader: (89)

Yea, I also run indoors at crcrc, I tried the 3/3 plate but I would get way to much air off of the jumps so I went back to the 3/2... I run the stock set-up but I made alot of changes to the rear end which are:
30 wt. with 56 pistons
hole 1 on tower rr. shocks
silver springs rr.
ride height 27 front and rear
and no sway bar in the rear

It may sound a little different but it works very well especially with M3 inside jobs or the new losi 1/8 tapers (PL's later in the evening).
A few losi drivers and I were running this at the mid-west with good results, Adam is the only one that stayed close to his basic set-up but he can drive with about any set-up

Don't know if this helps you any .... just thought I'd share it with ya!

Bigedmond

iTrader: (20)

I got the eb mods one.

xxxtracer

i have been checking out my throttle servo as preventative maintainance, just wanting to be sure that i have every thing set up as close to perfect as possible. i used the post by Steve Walters on page 43 of this thread as a guideline but i do not have the extra travel on the carb at full throttle. when full throttle is applied and you pull on the carb slide to get any extra movement it is already at full open. i have my epa set to barely get full throttle yet i do not have any free play on the carb slide when at full throttle. is that absolutely necessary, and if so how do i get more movement out of the carb slide?

i have not had a servo failure but would like to have it set up correctly if possible.

this is controlled by the carb not the linkage, correct?

thanks

tex1

iTrader: (4)

The idea of the over travel of the slide was to not allow flex to damage the servo when it was holding the carb at full throttle. (punched landing a jump would be a good example.) If this is a concern for you and your carb has no over travel you can also handle this with the linkage.
Put some fuel tubing between your servo horn and the throttle collet. The rod will have to be a litttle long but the fuel tubing will absorb the flex before the servo or carb gets damaged. You may also use a spring like the ones included for the brakes.
Hope this helps,
TEX

Had a great night of racing last night. This thing gets faster every race day.