Paul L

Hi OJ. will give you a couple set ups. no guarantees but this is what i would start with. I assume you are running boosted but i will give you a non boost set up as well just in case.

Non boost speedo with stock rotor: 4.7 overall ratio, 30 deg timing.
Non boost speedo with green rotor: 4.5 overall ratio, 33deg timing.
as always keep an eye on temps to make sure it is not getting over 90c, 80-85C is the target, I reccommend a fan on the motor, I think that the green rotor set up would be best.

For boosted i would tune the speedo to the temp (start slow and turn the speedo up until you see the target 80-85deg temp). with any of the rotors i would time the motor 25deg, gear it at 5.7 overall and start turning it up. with the LRP you can start the timing at value 4 and go up one step at a time measuring the temp all the way. Again, that is just where i would start, i could be wrong.

Thanks, good luck.

If anyone wants to jump in please feel free (40meters is 130ft) and 85c is 185f.




Hi Mike. First i would make sure that your front wheelbase is short (front arms all the way back), and make sure that your rear wheelbase is long (rear arms all the way back). also make sure that your steering bell-crank (Notches) is full short, after that i would try 2deg caster blocks and or a 1.4mm rear sway bar. All of those should help a lot. if it persists then place 14grams of weight in the front bumper (more forward weight will help).

Thanks!

I will be posting a set up soon. Thanks

yup

MD

iTrader: (136)

Paul,
Thanks.
Mike

Viking73

Hi Paul.


Thank you for your advice!
I will try setting 4 in timing and 9 in boost as a start (Itīs a boosted class).
I hope that will be ok.
I usually have 50-55 celsius - I have much fun ahead

OJ

King of B Main

iTrader: (40)

Hi Paul,
I was checking out some of your carpet setups and I was looking at your Roll center on some of the setups. You have higher roll centers in the front of the car. I was just curios why you had lower roll centers in the rear of car?

Paul L

No prob!

Good luck


Yes, normally when i run carpet i like the car to roll over the rear more, running a higher front hinge pin just gives it that balance and keeps the front end up a bit more in the corner. Although last year at the IIC and snowbirds the winners car did roll a lot over the nose and turned a lot. (Naito and alex). their cars looked to me like my car would with a lower front pin than rear. Maybe i am missing a piece of the puzzle but i still prefer the way that a car drives on carpet with the higher front pin. we will see in testing for Vegas if i can tune away from doing that this year.

Thanks

Magnet Top

iTrader: (4)

Hi Paul,

I'm thinking of running mod 1/12th on carpet ( TZ II size track ). Can you suggest which TP motor wind you'd use and if you find that it is better to run boost or not. Is there a noticeable tradeoff with efficiency ( fade ) and driveability one way or the other ( low wind vs high-er wind with "boost" ) ?

Jake

p.s. best of luck at IIC !!

Paul L

Hi Jake. I normally use a TP 4.0 motor with a stock green rotor, not stock as in what it comes with, but stock as in the optional green rotor that they make for 13.5/17.5's "stock" motors. I would boost it. if you go boosted i would start at 20deg timing at96/25 and play with boost until you are comfortable. I would also try non boosted just to see it for yourself, if you do that you will want to be at 25deg timing and 96/28 or 29 to start. PS i would put a fan on the speedo just to be safe, your speedo can get very hot. motor temp is never a issue.

Thanks

Magnet Top

iTrader: (4)

Thanks !
and I just happen to have the green rotor ! Will run an esc fan too.... very good to know....

mblgjr

iTrader: (86)

Do you run a 20 or 30g center-balance weight (or any balancing weight) on your t3 '12 when running on carpet?

traitor

iTrader: (3)

Hello Paul, when you "cycle your battery's" and you say for instance in your answer above "they lost performance in every catagory" , can you please tell me what kind or make of machine/tester your using to figure this out and what paramiters you are looking at? do the batt's need a load put on them when tested or does the machine/tester do it during test? Thanks,basicaly i would like to start doing some kind of routine to my battery's to keep an eye on their performance but have no clue what to do in this area. Thanks so much in advance for any help you can or do give me/US.

Paul L

Sometimes yes. first off i will balance the car with whatever electronics lay out i have, if i need to add weight to one side or the other to do so, i will.
Then i will add whatever other weight i need to make the minumum weight limit +10G. That weight i will use as ballast as a tuning option. move it forward for more stability, back for more rotation.

Thanks


If i am planning on running old battery's at a big race i will cycle them to make sure that they still have the needed performance to last 8min in 12th scale mod. I would never cycle a 2cell BC even the oldest 2cell battery will perform fine for me. A TurboThirtyGFX is how i cycle a battery when i need to. The charger market has gone compact. The TP610AC/DC does a great job of charging, its small, easy and plugs right in at around 100bucks. but to cycle a battery you would want 35amp or more discharge which none of the small chargers are capable of doing that.

Thanks

Nuno Gancho

iTrader: (1)

Paul,

When you say 5.7 overall for a 13.5t TP is that the big spur/motor pinion*car internal ratio?
Thanks.

Paul L

Hi. when i said 5.7 overall, i should have said 5.7FDR "Final Drive Ratio"
FDR is the spur divided by the pinion, multiplied by the cars internal ratio.

That FDR would be a starting point for boosted 13.5

Thanks

Nuno Gancho

iTrader: (1)

Thank you. Paul.

MD

iTrader: (136)

Hi Paul,
The suggestions you gave me have helped. As I mentioned I am running my 008 in VTA. What should the tension be on the belts? Currently, they are set on the factory recommended settings.
Thanks,
Mike
Hadley RC Club