Yokomo MR-4 TC Thread
03-20-2002, 08:38 PM
#1396
Chassis must be somewhere around 100 bucks in NZ? Send an email off to yokomo and ask them if it has been fixed.
03-20-2002, 10:20 PM
#1397
Yup, 'bout a Hundy for a chassis.
03-20-2002, 10:30 PM
#1398
Whew! Well, if you get one, let us know if it is tweaked.
Someone to ask would be johnbull...johnbull, on the more recent special kits you have recieved, have the chassis been perfectly flat, or is the front right hand edge by the battery raised a little?
Speedo
Someone to ask would be johnbull...johnbull, on the more recent special kits you have recieved, have the chassis been perfectly flat, or is the front right hand edge by the battery raised a little?
Speedo
03-21-2002, 04:05 AM
#1399
Tech Adept
hi guys, been experimenting with my yoke for days now. i have problem with my back that always push or slide when turning but when i put the rear sawy bar, the back hook alot but this has made my car to understeer. my set up is 70/60 yellow/blue f/r ride ht is 6/6.5. anybody got a set-up that uses a rear swaybar? i've noticed all your set-ups never had a rear swaybar on it though this makes the car more stable after the turn!
though i can turn better without the rear swaybar, i can't figure out how to minimize oversteering or pushing of my back when turning! by the way i race on asphalt and unfortunately its slippery beacuse of the dust! help me guys!
though i can turn better without the rear swaybar, i can't figure out how to minimize oversteering or pushing of my back when turning! by the way i race on asphalt and unfortunately its slippery beacuse of the dust! help me guys!
03-21-2002, 05:39 AM
#1400
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
Yorkie: Although my chassis is molded with a slight tweak, I'm able to tune it out easily enough. Additionally, I don't find that my chassis tweaks as result of collisions. Like you, I find that my Special is very neutral in it's handling. I love the way that it drives. When I got the car, I thought that I was going to have a world of difficulties adjusting to driving with dual oneways, however, I was blown out of the water by how easy the car is to drive.
03-21-2002, 09:10 AM
#1401
Masaki- if you are running on dusty asphalt then you are WAY too stiff on the shock oil. If you are still running the standard camber links, then use Masami's basic set up (meaning the hinge pin locations and camber link locations) along with your current ride height. All you have to do now is put 40/30 shock oil in it (Yok #3 pistons) and exchange the springs front to rear. Blue on front and yellow on rear. Use the silver front swaybar and no rear swaybar. Start off with around -1.5 camber. Oh, your shocks should have the short shock ends and be 61/60mm long. Josh will probably say this is a little soft, but you are better off starting too soft than too hard.
Josh- before you say I told him to set the shocks too long, remember that his ride height is 6mm and he needs to compensate in shock length.
One last thing Masaki- if the car is just a little too loose in the rear (with this set up), you could do one of two things; try the pink spring in the rear or move the rear camber link to the bulkhead. One or both will solve the problem if the car is loose in the rear.
If it's pushy (it shouldn't be) then lengthen the rear shocks .5mm
Hey- one note for all you Yok guys- I couldn't tell it on asphalt very much, but down in Orlando I noticed my Special seemed to turn just a hair better one way than the other on carpet. I assumed it was out of tweak (it was, but that wasn't the problem). After sitting down and taking a long hard look at the car, I remembered the set up pamphlet that comes with the X-Ray. It says to check the tweak on the swaybars by disconnecting the shocks and checking the droop at a given height with the swaybar connected from side to side. Well, what do ya know? It was like 3 mm off!!! The thing is, that the sway bar wasn't bent and it didn't look like anything was wrong with it. The problem is that when lying on a perfectly flat surface it had one tip raised a hair more than the other. Surprisingly, that hair difference made a TON of difference once on the car. The way I fixed it was to leave the high side connected and hold the arm down while pulling up on the low side while still on the car. Then I would reattatch it and check it. Here's the kicker: I got home and checked it on my other car and then my extra swaybars that I bought new seperately and almost all of them needed a little tweak. Needless to say, it fixed the steering differences from left to right.
BTW- both of my newer chassis' were pretty close to flat... a lot better than the first one that's for sure!
Josh- before you say I told him to set the shocks too long, remember that his ride height is 6mm and he needs to compensate in shock length.
One last thing Masaki- if the car is just a little too loose in the rear (with this set up), you could do one of two things; try the pink spring in the rear or move the rear camber link to the bulkhead. One or both will solve the problem if the car is loose in the rear.
If it's pushy (it shouldn't be) then lengthen the rear shocks .5mm
Hey- one note for all you Yok guys- I couldn't tell it on asphalt very much, but down in Orlando I noticed my Special seemed to turn just a hair better one way than the other on carpet. I assumed it was out of tweak (it was, but that wasn't the problem). After sitting down and taking a long hard look at the car, I remembered the set up pamphlet that comes with the X-Ray. It says to check the tweak on the swaybars by disconnecting the shocks and checking the droop at a given height with the swaybar connected from side to side. Well, what do ya know? It was like 3 mm off!!! The thing is, that the sway bar wasn't bent and it didn't look like anything was wrong with it. The problem is that when lying on a perfectly flat surface it had one tip raised a hair more than the other. Surprisingly, that hair difference made a TON of difference once on the car. The way I fixed it was to leave the high side connected and hold the arm down while pulling up on the low side while still on the car. Then I would reattatch it and check it. Here's the kicker: I got home and checked it on my other car and then my extra swaybars that I bought new seperately and almost all of them needed a little tweak. Needless to say, it fixed the steering differences from left to right.
BTW- both of my newer chassis' were pretty close to flat... a lot better than the first one that's for sure!
03-21-2002, 05:03 PM
#1402
I was actually going to say those shock lengths may be a little short for 6/6.5 ride height.
I'm sure the setup you have is a great setup, but you have to remember it won't work well everywhere. You probably don't run on dusty ashfault...Tires also play an important role in the setup of the car also.
So You have the high roll center all around? I may try that again, but it looks like I only have one more carpet race to go, so we'll see. What castor blocks are you using?
I've gone to Pit 27/24 tires instead of sorex 24/20 becauase I was burning up a set of tires every two weekends. Anyway, with the harder tires, I think I might try white/blue springs instead of the blue/yellow I am running now.
Speedo
I'm sure the setup you have is a great setup, but you have to remember it won't work well everywhere. You probably don't run on dusty ashfault...Tires also play an important role in the setup of the car also.
So You have the high roll center all around? I may try that again, but it looks like I only have one more carpet race to go, so we'll see. What castor blocks are you using?
I've gone to Pit 27/24 tires instead of sorex 24/20 becauase I was burning up a set of tires every two weekends. Anyway, with the harder tires, I think I might try white/blue springs instead of the blue/yellow I am running now.
Speedo
03-21-2002, 05:48 PM
#1403
I've got a practice day this weekend, might try a few things to rid the car of "Tweaks"
03-21-2002, 06:12 PM
#1404
Josh- they may be a little short, but I would try that first.
Actually, we do run on medium traction unprepped asphalt. They have sweepers that sweep the track once a week, but we don't blow it off or anything.
I agree, but I would hope Masaki has enough sense to be running the same tires (at least to begin with) that the fast guys at his track are running.
I have my roll centers (hinge pin locations on the arms) the same as Chris does. The inboard camber liks are in the front- middle outside and rear- top outside. But this is with the Tossolini camber mods. Before I was running the same locations as Masami's latest base setup.
For tirs on carpet, believe it or not, there was so much traction at the Snowbirds that I went all the way up to pit 30/27s with firm yok inserts. I think I told you how fast my car was... they worked great!! Josh, I think you should try sorex 28/24 with echo yellows or HPI reds if you want the tire to last a little longer. You might find after the first few laps they are a little more consistent also.
Oh yea- if you are going to change the tires, then wait to change the springs. Two major changes will throw you off. If you go back and try Chris' arm and camber positions, do it after or before the tire change. Also, if you try it again, try the shock lengths how I posted them above. Good luck bro.
Actually, we do run on medium traction unprepped asphalt. They have sweepers that sweep the track once a week, but we don't blow it off or anything.
I agree, but I would hope Masaki has enough sense to be running the same tires (at least to begin with) that the fast guys at his track are running.
I have my roll centers (hinge pin locations on the arms) the same as Chris does. The inboard camber liks are in the front- middle outside and rear- top outside. But this is with the Tossolini camber mods. Before I was running the same locations as Masami's latest base setup.
For tirs on carpet, believe it or not, there was so much traction at the Snowbirds that I went all the way up to pit 30/27s with firm yok inserts. I think I told you how fast my car was... they worked great!! Josh, I think you should try sorex 28/24 with echo yellows or HPI reds if you want the tire to last a little longer. You might find after the first few laps they are a little more consistent also.
Oh yea- if you are going to change the tires, then wait to change the springs. Two major changes will throw you off. If you go back and try Chris' arm and camber positions, do it after or before the tire change. Also, if you try it again, try the shock lengths how I posted them above. Good luck bro.
Last edited by BigDogRacing; 03-21-2002 at 06:15 PM.
03-22-2002, 04:03 AM
#1405
Tech Adept
bigdog>
thanks alot dude! i'll try your set-up tomorrow. i already have a nice set of tires- sorex 40 since its pretty hot here. summer time!!!
as much as possible, i'll have to do away with rear swaybars.
thanks alot dude! i'll try your set-up tomorrow. i already have a nice set of tires- sorex 40 since its pretty hot here. summer time!!!
as much as possible, i'll have to do away with rear swaybars.
03-22-2002, 11:26 AM
#1406
Well, I meant that the fast tire at his track may be different than at your tracl 
I actually like Pit 27/24 with pit medium better than the Sorex 28/24. 28/24 gives my car a little bit of a push, so I like the 27/24 better because it will take that away.
I have run the 27/24 for a weekend already, with the same springs as with the 24/20 and next time I race, like I said, I want to try softer.
Speedo
I actually like Pit 27/24 with pit medium better than the Sorex 28/24. 28/24 gives my car a little bit of a push, so I like the 27/24 better because it will take that away.
I have run the 27/24 for a weekend already, with the same springs as with the 24/20 and next time I race, like I said, I want to try softer.
Speedo
03-23-2002, 10:42 AM
#1407
Got some pictures of my car up...
03-23-2002, 10:44 AM
#1408
And my chrome body...
03-23-2002, 10:48 AM
#1410
I am?