V-spec problems with top end.
05-18-2009, 09:30 AM
#1
V-spec problems with top end.
Raced my V-spec this weekend and was having problems getting any top end speed out of it. It's always run fine, and has about 2 gallons thru it. Here's the set up: ST-RR with 13 tooth bell/50 tooth main gear; answer-RC aluminum shoes with 2 black & 1 gold spring (recommended by Jaz); Losi RE-11 pipe. It was running about 240-250 on a very hot 100 degree day, and the tune seemed fine. Had plenty of low end punch, no hesitation what-so-ever, just lacked straightaway speed. Any suggestions??
05-18-2009, 09:47 AM
#2
Raced my V-spec this weekend and was having problems getting any top end speed out of it. It's always run fine, and has about 2 gallons thru it. Here's the set up: ST-RR with 13 tooth bell/50 tooth main gear; answer-RC aluminum shoes with 2 black & 1 gold spring (recommended by Jaz); Losi RE-11 pipe. It was running about 240-250 on a very hot 100 degree day, and the tune seemed fine. Had plenty of low end punch, no hesitation what-so-ever, just lacked straightaway speed. Any suggestions??
05-18-2009, 09:54 AM
#3
Sorry, actually it was 13/48. Run time was about 9 minutes with a scosh left in the tank.
05-18-2009, 10:28 AM
#4
try going up a tooth and see what happens. I dont' know what kind of pipe the losi RE 11 is, but I run the OS speed 2060 sc on my spec and that thing is a bullet. if gearing doesn't help then maybe try another pipe.
05-18-2009, 10:29 AM
#5
strr need a 14 bell
05-18-2009, 10:49 AM
#7
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
I've also had issues with my Vspec the last two weekends. I'm wondering if someone can share some insight. Here are my symptoms
The engine will turn on, but if I blip the throttle it dies. If I slowly give it gas and then clean it out, it sounds great, but when I close the throttle it dies.
If I manage to get it running, it is very inconsistent. Sometimes it has no low end power and no top end and sometimes it has good low end snap and no top end. I tried resetting all the needles and tuning from there and nothing helps. The engine also never seems to get hotter than 200 degrees.
When I replace the plug, it seems to actually run for a heat or two without stalling. But I've changed at least 3 plugs in the last two race days even though the fillament seems to glow red.
I'm finding the carb to be wet under the carb boot (the slide).
Any ideas? Oh, it is a gen 1 Vspec that I've had for about 2 years, but it's probably got only about a gallon through it. I thought it was a carb leak, so I reseated the carb and it worked amazing for one practice night, but it went back to it's old self this weekend and I'm at a loss. I'm thiking of buying a Werks B7 or something else...
The engine will turn on, but if I blip the throttle it dies. If I slowly give it gas and then clean it out, it sounds great, but when I close the throttle it dies.
If I manage to get it running, it is very inconsistent. Sometimes it has no low end power and no top end and sometimes it has good low end snap and no top end. I tried resetting all the needles and tuning from there and nothing helps. The engine also never seems to get hotter than 200 degrees.
When I replace the plug, it seems to actually run for a heat or two without stalling. But I've changed at least 3 plugs in the last two race days even though the fillament seems to glow red.
I'm finding the carb to be wet under the carb boot (the slide).
Any ideas? Oh, it is a gen 1 Vspec that I've had for about 2 years, but it's probably got only about a gallon through it. I thought it was a carb leak, so I reseated the carb and it worked amazing for one practice night, but it went back to it's old self this weekend and I'm at a loss. I'm thiking of buying a Werks B7 or something else...
05-18-2009, 10:52 AM
#8
I liked the springs JAZ240, had good punch and took very little run-up to clear most jumps. I'm fairly sure that the clutch was not contributing to my problems. What kind of internal problems would result in the absence of top speed but good low-mid speed? Perhaps the RE-11 was a problem, but many have posted that it's a 2050 clone and great for top end. I was using a JP-3 before on smaller tracks and it was very fast.
05-18-2009, 11:08 AM
#9
I liked the springs JAZ240, had good punch and took very little run-up to clear most jumps. I'm fairly sure that the clutch was not contributing to my problems. What kind of internal problems would result in the absence of top speed but good low-mid speed? Perhaps the RE-11 was a problem, but many have posted that it's a 2050 clone and great for top end. I was using a JP-3 before on smaller tracks and it was very fast.
Top speed means more heat, more heat means more expansion..witch make little tiny air leaks into big giant air leaks..Just saying. it dont mean that's what's happening to you..Personally I think its your gear ratio...but you may want to check the rod and crank pin for play also, and the front engine bearing..V-specs need a little more TLC than other Mills, especially after break in..Good luck..Keep us posted
05-18-2009, 11:17 AM
#10
I've also had issues with my Vspec the last two weekends. I'm wondering if someone can share some insight. Here are my symptoms
The engine will turn on, but if I blip the throttle it dies. If I slowly give it gas and then clean it out, it sounds great, but when I close the throttle it dies.
If I manage to get it running, it is very inconsistent. Sometimes it has no low end power and no top end and sometimes it has good low end snap and no top end. I tried resetting all the needles and tuning from there and nothing helps. The engine also never seems to get hotter than 200 degrees.
When I replace the plug, it seems to actually run for a heat or two without stalling. But I've changed at least 3 plugs in the last two race days even though the fillament seems to glow red.
I'm finding the carb to be wet under the carb boot (the slide).
Any ideas? Oh, it is a gen 1 Vspec that I've had for about 2 years, but it's probably got only about a gallon through it. I thought it was a carb leak, so I reseated the carb and it worked amazing for one practice night, but it went back to it's old self this weekend and I'm at a loss. I'm thiking of buying a Werks B7 or something else...
The engine will turn on, but if I blip the throttle it dies. If I slowly give it gas and then clean it out, it sounds great, but when I close the throttle it dies.
If I manage to get it running, it is very inconsistent. Sometimes it has no low end power and no top end and sometimes it has good low end snap and no top end. I tried resetting all the needles and tuning from there and nothing helps. The engine also never seems to get hotter than 200 degrees.
When I replace the plug, it seems to actually run for a heat or two without stalling. But I've changed at least 3 plugs in the last two race days even though the fillament seems to glow red.
I'm finding the carb to be wet under the carb boot (the slide).
Any ideas? Oh, it is a gen 1 Vspec that I've had for about 2 years, but it's probably got only about a gallon through it. I thought it was a carb leak, so I reseated the carb and it worked amazing for one practice night, but it went back to it's old self this weekend and I'm at a loss. I'm thiking of buying a Werks B7 or something else...
Possibly leaky carb Boot...they dont do well sitting around, the rubber gets dried out..Try a new boot on the slide, if that dont work, seal up the base of the carb, the backplate, the HSN housing, and the pinch bolts..but not until after you check the engine bearings..its possible that sitting around for so long your bearings have rusted
05-18-2009, 01:29 PM
#13
Yes, airtight, no holes! But dont seal it with anything, you need to replace it..be careful when you pop the ball link on and off the throttle, that's usually when peeps puncture the carb boot, and you wont know it till tuning gets difficult..not a bad idea to have a spare or two lying around..If it needs new bearings don"t buy stock, get the TKO ceramics..good luck, keep us posted
05-18-2009, 03:36 PM
#15
No problem buddy, it's all good here in da hood! I've actually learned something...i might just have to check my carb boot as well. Hey JAZ, at the end of my A main saturday the rear diff seemed to be real gritty, almost like the gear mesh was off. i noticed one of the diff case screws was about 1/2 out. Is it possible that the rear diff going out might have created the problems I was having speed-wise as the race went on? I ask only because that V=spec has been money up till now with absolutely no problems at all, and it's just weird that all of a sudden it would start going bad only on the top side. Your thoughts gentlemen...