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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 05-06-2014, 03:29 PM
  #9406  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I did it...
What button shims are those? Looks really nice!
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Old 05-06-2014, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Fyrmed2
What button shims are those? Looks really nice!
lol, some blue b4 axle shims from those old school pin wheels
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Old 05-06-2014, 03:38 PM
  #9408  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
that is a jc wing and it would not even go on with the stock mounts....so I didnt really have a choice. and yes, the wing is on there really good. it is s stupid stiff.
Nice. After I get some bumps and bruises on the it I'll give that mod a try.
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Old 05-06-2014, 03:38 PM
  #9409  
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Thanks Wild
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Old 05-06-2014, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
have to grind 1 mm off the steering knuckle , leave Ackermann the same

Yes ,using 4mm on the low side with the alloy rear camber brace.
Doesn't 4mm on the low side of the aluminum rear ballstud mount just equal to if you ran it on the built in +2 high side ? I know using 2mm washers on the low side puts it at "zero" (like plastic mount with no washers).
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Old 05-06-2014, 04:28 PM
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That's how Durango wings get mounted for years now. I also did that on my old 22.

The one drawback is that if you take a significantly hard spill, the wing tends to bend/crease at or around those washers. But wings are disposables so they're gonna wear out quick enough either way.
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Old 05-06-2014, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by the incubus
That's how Durango wings get mounted for years now. I also did that on my old 22.

The one drawback is that if you take a significantly hard spill, the wing tends to bend/crease at or around those washers. But wings are disposables so they're gonna wear out quick enough either way.
I know. it is so ridged that the wing will take some extra abuse. motivstion to keep it on all 4 wheels
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Old 05-06-2014, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by rigor
Doesn't 4mm on the low side of the aluminum rear ballstud mount just equal to if you ran it on the built in +2 high side ? I know using 2mm washers on the low side puts it at "zero" (like plastic mount with no washers).
Yes that is correct I think he didn't want to flip the bracket or something. You can achieve the same height if you flip the bracket with no spacers.

Low side -2mm

High side +2mm

This is what I got from reading previous posts about the alloy camber block.
Last edited by leskai; 05-06-2014 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 05-06-2014, 05:11 PM
  #9414  
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Originally Posted by Jake S


so I was right? the pic doesnt show anything different IMO. Just higher shocks.
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Old 05-06-2014, 05:15 PM
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lol. yep its all the same. you should skip the flat arms
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Old 05-06-2014, 05:23 PM
  #9416  
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Default Alloy rear camber brace
Originally Posted by rigor
Doesn't 4mm on the low side of the aluminum rear ballstud mount just equal to if you ran it on the built in +2 high side ? I know using 2mm washers on the low side puts it at "zero" (like plastic mount with no washers).
Could of just flipped it , no shims..

Or

no flip, but can adjust the amount of shim's for more tuneability.
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Old 05-06-2014, 05:28 PM
  #9417  
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My 25 degree bulk head broke and I had to use a 30 degree bulk head. I feel like I lost some steering. What differences will I see with the 30 degree from the 25 bulk head. Anybideas to get more on power steering.
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Old 05-06-2014, 05:33 PM
  #9418  
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seems like the shock eye is below the front bulk head with the gull

Flat arm shock eye is even if a little above on bulk head

Get sure the top shock eye is a whole hole different between the two.
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-06-2014 at 05:54 PM.
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Old 05-06-2014, 05:55 PM
  #9419  
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tower closer on the top, and shocks laid down more.
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Old 05-06-2014, 06:01 PM
  #9420  
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thank you. I will look into it. Didnt notice it in the pics.

ETA is anyone running hard arms? I am wondering how they handle regular racing. I am affraid they might be brittle?

ETA 2 wouldnt running your shocks on the inner hole at the top do basically the same thing?
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