cplus

iTrader: (11)

It's, umm, very plastic.

Quite a few of the parts are not up to race standard. The front spool comes to mind, I've seen those break under very mild impact situations.

evochick

iTrader: (5)

ok they were an orange shade of red

all but finished, just waiting for a delivery so I can build the shocks (awaiting Ti shafts)

looking forward to giving it a run tomorrow either way

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

+1

As the saying goes - Race on Sunday, sell on Monday.

mick355

iTrader: (14)

Had my first run with the new car last night. Seems very planted but struggles a little to turn in for the slow tight corners.
I feel a lot more comfortable with this thing staight out of the box vs my T4'14.
Need to get myself some soft springs.

Bar

iTrader: (1)

From what I'm reading it sounds like the standard red/orange o-rings are too big, like with the old diff as they protruded quite a bit making the diff really tight. Can't believe they can't sort out their gear diff

evochick

iTrader: (5)

Why they don't ship with the 500gob seals ?? I don't know
Hopefully It wont leak with those installed.....

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

Red and orange orings are different materials. I had a few nitro mugen cars which use red orings in diff and shocks.

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

The orange P5 orings are better IMO, the kyosho P5 orings I put in my diff are still perfectly smooth without leaking after 9 or so months of use.

The 500gob orings swelled and went very hard in my car creating bind after a few weeks.

Les

iTrader: (2)

Ok thanks for your input.
Cheers

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

There is certainly variation in the diff casings. There is visual and measurable differences in the oring recess in the 3 diffs I have.

One casing was beyond use and the other 2 were fine.

The P5 orings are the lowest friction with decent seal I have tried. The original orings are a tight fit on the outdrive shafts but don't fit the recess. They leak like a sieve, not to mention went hard and created bind.

The 500gob orings were slightly larger than the originals appeared to be the same size as the used P5 orings I swapped them with but as per my previous post swelled went hard and created bind.

I agree great car in many aspects but the variation in the diff and crap orings are a big let down.

On the upside once leaking and binding is sorted the gear diff is silky smooth.

niznai

Yep. Good value for money (hard to beat by anything else).

The front spool is a joke, but you can get the alloy one if you want, plus DCJ shafts (you can use the Tamiya ones if you think they're better) and other bits and bobs and you're still miles ahead of the price for a full blown kit (price confirmed in Aus it's going to be 650AU$ which is extortionate).

Upgrade kits might come on the market too, there were about 4 versions for the '14, so you can get whatever you think you need according to your needs.

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

Locally the BD7 2014 blue was about $480, black $520.

BD7 2015 only place I know that has one is $600 which I can only hope will quickly come down in price to something more reasonable. Same place as the T4 15 for $529...

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

I'm pretty sure GOB and P5 are the exact same oring, TRF also resell them. Like you I've had inconsistent results across the board with orings and cases and my new (2015) diff was no better. Very frustrating.

You can find the new car locally for ~$550

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

Hi Craig,

The 500GOB oring that arrived was black in colour and appeared to be neoprene. Whilst the 500GOB appear to be the same dimensions as the kyosho P5 oring it was not the same material. Worked fine at first but didn't last.

Kyosho P5s are orange in colour and I have not yet seen one effected by diff oil.

AllyITA

hi, i didn't want to open a new thread so i'll ask here.
i'm thinking of buying an used BD7 2014 (lots of people switching to the new one so i can find it at reasonable price), i'm completely new to on-road and no experience whatsoever with touring cars, i usually race nitro 8th scale buggys.

i'll be driving it on an 8th scale asphalt track (no carpet tracks nearby) with no real intention of racing, just practice laps.

1) i'm thinking of using (for now) the electronics of my 2wd buggy:
tekin rs pro + tekin 7.5 motor
is it ok? what pinion should i use? do i need a fan to cool the motor?

2) can a standard servo be fitted insted of a low profile?

3)what spares should i have?
belts, arms, c-hubs?

4)do i need tire additive?

5)is double sided tape enough to hold the esc? (in the buggy it always detaches itself with the heat)

thanks for the answers!
english is not my first lenguage, sorry for any mistakes