YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7
#5851
Tech Rookie
You're correct but I am just wondering from a durability / performance stand point. I wouldn't upgrade anything on th rs2 unless it broke or if the part might improve performance. My only hang up On buying the black was that I was originally going to only spend $225 on the original rs. The rs2 is already out of my optimum price range but if durability and/or performance improves with the black I would think about getting the black. I mean I am thinking about getting the black now. Just harder to swallow the larger initial cost. I already have all the electronics, tires, and body ready for my VTA class. I just need the chassis...
#5852
Tech Regular
You're correct but I am just wondering from a durability / performance stand point. I wouldn't upgrade anything on th rs2 unless it broke or if the part might improve performance. My only hang up On buying the black was that I was originally going to only spend $225 on the original rs. The rs2 is already out of my optimum price range but if durability and/or performance improves with the black I would think about getting the black. I mean I am thinking about getting the black now. Just harder to swallow the larger initial cost. I already have all the electronics, tires, and body ready for my VTA class. I just need the chassis...
#5853
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
The aluminum bulkheads are less flexible and will hold up better over time.
The floating battery strap system allows for more equal flex in the chassis. It also removes a place that the chassis can get tweaked.
The aluminum shocks are more durable than plastic.
The springs that come with the black kit are better springs.
You get front and rear sway bars. A performance item that almost all racers use.
The aluminum layshaft and spool are more durable.
The floating battery strap system allows for more equal flex in the chassis. It also removes a place that the chassis can get tweaked.
The aluminum shocks are more durable than plastic.
The springs that come with the black kit are better springs.
You get front and rear sway bars. A performance item that almost all racers use.
The aluminum layshaft and spool are more durable.
#5854
Tech Rookie
Thanks for the information guys! I was just browsing on Banzaihobby.com and saw the original RS for 174! That is right up my alley, especially because it was originally what I wanted to get! My only question now is if the RS comes with the updated bulkhead and diff that was changed for the 2015 BD7? Thanks again guys!
#5855
Tech Regular
Thanks for the information guys! I was just browsing on Banzaihobby.com and saw the original RS for 174! That is right up my alley, especially because it was originally what I wanted to get! My only question now is if the RS comes with the updated bulkhead and diff that was changed for the 2015 BD7? Thanks again guys!
#5856
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
I need help with a good motor/esc combo. Im thinking about getting the Trinity D4 17.5 maxzilla for rookie class but I dont know which ESC to get. If someone recommends another motor please let me know.I dont know if it matters but it will on a carpet track. Thanks for the help fellas.
#5857
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
I need help with a good motor/esc combo. Im thinking about getting the Trinity D4 17.5 maxzilla for rookie class but I dont know which ESC to get. If someone recommends another motor please let me know.I dont know if it matters but it will on a carpet track. Thanks for the help fellas.
#5858
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)
I need help with a good motor/esc combo. Im thinking about getting the Trinity D4 17.5 maxzilla for rookie class but I dont know which ESC to get. If someone recommends another motor please let me know.I dont know if it matters but it will on a carpet track. Thanks for the help fellas.
#5859
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)
Thanks for the information guys! I was just browsing on Banzaihobby.com and saw the original RS for 174! That is right up my alley, especially because it was originally what I wanted to get! My only question now is if the RS comes with the updated bulkhead and diff that was changed for the 2015 BD7? Thanks again guys!
I think if you're just trying racing out atm and not sure if it's something you'd enjoy, then go for it
#5860
Tech Rookie
I think for $174 that's a lot of car for the money... But if you're planning to stick around the RC scene then you should get a BLACK 15 JMRCA edition (comes with DCJ, floating servo mount, TI turnbuckles). Because in the future, you WILL be buying a brand new comp spec bd7/or upgrading your RS to comp spec and it will cost you even more.
I think if you're just trying racing out atm and not sure if it's something you'd enjoy, then go for it
I think if you're just trying racing out atm and not sure if it's something you'd enjoy, then go for it
#5862
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)
Thanks for your thoughts! I have been racing on-road for the past 3 months in a silver can class with a wobbly tt-01. I think it is something I'd like to do for awhile. I'm just not sure of the 500 dollar investment in a car. The fast guys at our track use mi1's and older model cars. I'm not sure if anyone using a top of the line car in the VTA class. As it is I have driven with the VTA guys with a tuned VTA car and I am approximately 4 laps behind them after a five minute main. So all the performance in a car won't help me right now. I really need to become a better driver. Now with all that said I am sure the bd7 black JMRCA version could help me but I wasn't quite prepared to pay for the top of the line car. I've really been gnawing this all over and trying to make a decision soon. I want to be up and running within a week. I have everything but the car at the moment.