Hot Bodies TCXX
#2086
To float the top deck on the older HB car, you find some scrap 1.5m graphite and made to thin short bars that go from the front to the rear screw. One on each side. Counter sink the holes and use flat head screws. This held the bearings down. Then you raised the top deck with 2m spacers. Just needed it high enough that the top deck didn't touch the bars you made. This allowed the top deck to float without attaching at the spur location. Wish I had a pic but this is Hiro and many ran it back in the day.
http://ets.redrc.net/2013/06/chassis-focus-andy-moore/
2nd photo
#2087
Tech Fanatic
You can see it here, the photo angles aren't perfect though
http://ets.redrc.net/2013/06/chassis-focus-andy-moore/
2nd photo
http://ets.redrc.net/2013/06/chassis-focus-andy-moore/
2nd photo
FMI what is the point of the floating top plate? From my way of thinking the F to R flexibilty only inhibits weight transfer to the front under deceleration (like pushing on a rope), thus taking away steering going into a corner (however, the write up says Andy is doing other mods to get more steering). Under power the floating top plate as shown would have little affect as the weight transfer to the rear since it would be like pulling on a rope - very little give.
I wait to be enlightened
#2088
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
I checked the Petit RC database and didin't find an Andy Moore setup similar to this (WRT the center drive pully).
FMI what is the point of the floating top plate? From my way of thinking the F to R flexibilty only inhibits weight transfer to the front under deceleration (like pushing on a rope), thus taking away steering going into a corner (however, the write up says Andy is doing other mods to get more steering). Under power the floating top plate as shown would have little affect as the weight transfer to the rear since it would be like pulling on a rope - very little give.
I wait to be enlightened
FMI what is the point of the floating top plate? From my way of thinking the F to R flexibilty only inhibits weight transfer to the front under deceleration (like pushing on a rope), thus taking away steering going into a corner (however, the write up says Andy is doing other mods to get more steering). Under power the floating top plate as shown would have little affect as the weight transfer to the rear since it would be like pulling on a rope - very little give.
I wait to be enlightened
#2089
Tech Fanatic
That makes sense. Back in the day people were putting rubber grumlets between the top-deck and the bulk head to get more torsional flex in the chassis. However, Airwave specifically mentioned front to back flex, which upon rethinking the problem; with no screws in the center pully holes and the top plate shimmed up from the bulk head, the F/R weight transfer should be dampened both on and off power by allowing the top plate to flex as the weight transfers in either direction - sort of like a softer center spring in a pan car.
Last edited by John Wallace2; 05-24-2016 at 03:03 AM.
#2090
Tech Fanatic
You can see it here, the photo angles aren't perfect though
http://ets.redrc.net/2013/06/chassis-focus-andy-moore/
2nd photo
http://ets.redrc.net/2013/06/chassis-focus-andy-moore/
2nd photo
#2091
Hello everybody, I'm looking for thick anti-roll bars. Thicker than the HB ones (1.6, 1.8 and 2.0). Has anybody already found and used such compatible anti-roll bars on a TCXX?
#2092
Tech Fanatic
Well the new weight limits nearly killed my TCXX based cars - but not quite!!!
I removed the Arrowmax chassis from both the VTA and USGT cars, swapped VTA components with my USGT car, changed some connectors, went to a different lighter body (no more Camaro ) and I'm down to 1452 without body clips (including front diff and 6000 MAH battery). Completely ROAR and USVTA legal. Except for the ROAR regional here they are running VTA at 1350 so after the Regionals I may have a VTA car for sale! BTW it is mostly ChrisGT's setup.
Without the Arrowmax chassis, my USGT car started off at 1392 but with the change to 1350 I bought a 5000 mah shorty pack and added some weight to rebalance the car F/R and L/R and it now comes in at 1352 ready to race. Hope my scale is correct!
I must say I was concerned about using the shorty in USGT or 17.5 but after watching Cristian Tabush nearly beat Chris Adams (nat'l champ) in 1/10th modified this weekend at Austin using a 5000mah shorty pack, I no longer have those concerns - you just have to manage your motor timing and gearing.
Let's see $80 for a shorty battery or $500 to $800 for a new car. hmmm - My TCXXs still work pretty good!
I removed the Arrowmax chassis from both the VTA and USGT cars, swapped VTA components with my USGT car, changed some connectors, went to a different lighter body (no more Camaro ) and I'm down to 1452 without body clips (including front diff and 6000 MAH battery). Completely ROAR and USVTA legal. Except for the ROAR regional here they are running VTA at 1350 so after the Regionals I may have a VTA car for sale! BTW it is mostly ChrisGT's setup.
Without the Arrowmax chassis, my USGT car started off at 1392 but with the change to 1350 I bought a 5000 mah shorty pack and added some weight to rebalance the car F/R and L/R and it now comes in at 1352 ready to race. Hope my scale is correct!
I must say I was concerned about using the shorty in USGT or 17.5 but after watching Cristian Tabush nearly beat Chris Adams (nat'l champ) in 1/10th modified this weekend at Austin using a 5000mah shorty pack, I no longer have those concerns - you just have to manage your motor timing and gearing.
Let's see $80 for a shorty battery or $500 to $800 for a new car. hmmm - My TCXXs still work pretty good!
Last edited by John Wallace2; 10-13-2016 at 03:14 PM.
#2093
Tech Fanatic
Well the new weight limits nearly killed my TCXX based cars - but not quite!!!
I removed the Arrowmax chassis from both the VTA and USGT cars, swapped VTA components with my USGT car, changed some connectors, went to a different lighter body (no more Camaro ) and I'm down to 1452 without body clips (including front diff and 6000 MAH battery). Completely ROAR and USVTA legal. Except for the ROAR regional here they are running VTA at 1350 so after the Regionals I may have a VTA car for sale! BTW it is mostly ChrisGT's setup.
Without the Arrowmax chassis, my USGT car started off at 1392 but with the change to 1350 I bought a 5000 mah shorty pack and added some weight to rebalance the car F/R and L/R and it now comes in at 1352 ready to race. Hope my scale is correct!
I must say I was concerned about using the shorty in USGT or 17.5 but after watching Cristian Tabush nearly beat Chris Adams (nat'l champ) in 1/10th modified this weekend at Austin using a 5000mah shorty pack, I no longer have those concerns - you just have to manage your motor timing and gearing.
Let's see $80 for a shorty battery or $500 to $800 for a new car. hmmm - My TCXXs still work pretty good!
I removed the Arrowmax chassis from both the VTA and USGT cars, swapped VTA components with my USGT car, changed some connectors, went to a different lighter body (no more Camaro ) and I'm down to 1452 without body clips (including front diff and 6000 MAH battery). Completely ROAR and USVTA legal. Except for the ROAR regional here they are running VTA at 1350 so after the Regionals I may have a VTA car for sale! BTW it is mostly ChrisGT's setup.
Without the Arrowmax chassis, my USGT car started off at 1392 but with the change to 1350 I bought a 5000 mah shorty pack and added some weight to rebalance the car F/R and L/R and it now comes in at 1352 ready to race. Hope my scale is correct!
I must say I was concerned about using the shorty in USGT or 17.5 but after watching Cristian Tabush nearly beat Chris Adams (nat'l champ) in 1/10th modified this weekend at Austin using a 5000mah shorty pack, I no longer have those concerns - you just have to manage your motor timing and gearing.
Let's see $80 for a shorty battery or $500 to $800 for a new car. hmmm - My TCXXs still work pretty good!
I only ran against one other VTA car yesterday (test and tune day) but after some tweaking I got the lap times in my VTA car even faster than the 25.5TC despite hulling around an extra 100 grams. I have a few changes to make that should make the VTA car even faster. Now I'll go back and tweak the 25.5 some more and see what I can do to get it even better. Next I'll have to work on being a better driver!
Last edited by John Wallace2; 10-16-2016 at 05:53 PM.
#2094
I've just picked up a TCXX to use in GT, where it's 17.5 fixed timing, outdoor medium grip ashphalt, control tyre Much More 36X.
Any recommendations as a starting point for diff and shock oils? I have not run a HB car before, and there's lots of different suggestions regarding which way to go.
Currently has 2K diff oil, 450cst shock oil with kit springs and pistons.
Any recommendations as a starting point for diff and shock oils? I have not run a HB car before, and there's lots of different suggestions regarding which way to go.
Currently has 2K diff oil, 450cst shock oil with kit springs and pistons.
#2095
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
I've just picked up a TCXX to use in GT, where it's 17.5 fixed timing, outdoor medium grip ashphalt, control tyre Much More 36X.
Any recommendations as a starting point for diff and shock oils? I have not run a HB car before, and there's lots of different suggestions regarding which way to go.
Currently has 2K diff oil, 450cst shock oil with kit springs and pistons.
Any recommendations as a starting point for diff and shock oils? I have not run a HB car before, and there's lots of different suggestions regarding which way to go.
Currently has 2K diff oil, 450cst shock oil with kit springs and pistons.
#2096
I've just picked up a TCXX to use in GT, where it's 17.5 fixed timing, outdoor medium grip ashphalt, control tyre Much More 36X.
Any recommendations as a starting point for diff and shock oils? I have not run a HB car before, and there's lots of different suggestions regarding which way to go.
Currently has 2K diff oil, 450cst shock oil with kit springs and pistons.
Any recommendations as a starting point for diff and shock oils? I have not run a HB car before, and there's lots of different suggestions regarding which way to go.
Currently has 2K diff oil, 450cst shock oil with kit springs and pistons.
Start with 1.5mm under the arms everywhere, 2mm under the turnbuckes diff-side. 1.3mm antiroll bars, 3000 in the rear diff
About shocks, 450, three holes 1.1mm, 0 rebound, 1mm hole in the top plastic part, HPI silver springs everywhere.
The rest is depending on the chassis and the upper deck you are using...
#2097
Tech Fanatic
I've just picked up a TCXX to use in GT, where it's 17.5 fixed timing, outdoor medium grip ashphalt, control tyre Much More 36X.
Any recommendations as a starting point for diff and shock oils? I have not run a HB car before, and there's lots of different suggestions regarding which way to go.
Currently has 2K diff oil, 450cst shock oil with kit springs and pistons.
Any recommendations as a starting point for diff and shock oils? I have not run a HB car before, and there's lots of different suggestions regarding which way to go.
Currently has 2K diff oil, 450cst shock oil with kit springs and pistons.
#2098
Hello is below shock tower the Pro5 short shock tower thanks
part 114467
part 114467
#2099
#2100
Tech Rookie
Hi,
I'm looking for a spur & pinion combination that fit (!) in the TCXX (incl. the upgrade motor holder from 2014) to reach ca. 5.00 (48dp) and 4.50 (64dp). I tried a lot but I'm a bit tired sending stuff back to the RC shop...
Any ideas?
I'm looking for a spur & pinion combination that fit (!) in the TCXX (incl. the upgrade motor holder from 2014) to reach ca. 5.00 (48dp) and 4.50 (64dp). I tried a lot but I'm a bit tired sending stuff back to the RC shop...
Any ideas?