Rcgman

Cool... Never thought of that

Thanks

VenturaDC

iTrader: (32)

I put back about 1200mah after a 7min main with no real noticeable drop in punch, I've never run it to the cutoff but have ran some decently long practice sessions with it.

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

In fact they used to carry an even smaller one!
A 3000mAh, I have one and its almost like running without a battery!
Wonder why they stopped selling that one?

juicy74

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys, what grade sandpaper do u use to sand the rings?

triplesix

So I finally got my B5m yesterday. The build was great so far, good fitment of the parts, no missing or defective parts - obviously the guy at QC had'n fallen asleep when my kit was produced My rear arms needed a washer to remove some slop (~ 2mm) on the inner hinge pins, at least the slop was equal left and right.

One question so far:
I'm quite familiar with all these geometry adjustments like caster, camber, anti-squat, etc.
but what's the difference between running 25° kick-up with 5° caster block inserts versus 30° kick-up und 0° inserts? Both cases result in a total 30° caster but does it drive differently?

Ruffy

iTrader: (3)

All of the kits, including mine, seem to have this large amount of play in the rear arms. I heard that AE are going to address it, most likely by including spacers for the inner hinge pin. This is only my assumption.
The front will also develop a lot of play in the front axle plastic bearing holders ( the ones listed for 2mm, 3mm, or 4mm trailing axle) as the plastic itself seems to move around in the steering spindle. I think in time we will see them address this as well, but just wanted to let you know this is normal so far in the kits.

ALSO! The rear ball stud, that threads into the rear wheel hubs, by going through the plastic part and then threading into the blue aluminum rectangle... make sure to clean this ballstud and the blue rectangle with like motor spray to remove any lite oils it may have and then thread using a thread adhesive like Loctite 242 (blue loctite thread adhesive compound) to prevent the ball stud from backing out during a run and your loss of the small blue rectangle.

skoalisbad4me

iTrader: (155)

I personally use 400

celt

iTrader: (5)

A 10mm ballstud with an aluminum locknut eliminates any chance of failure permanently.

Stanfsu

iTrader: (294)

Are the B5 bodies interchangable? Can you use the B5R on the B5M?
Assuming that you change the cut.

Eaglesrx

iTrader: (11)

+1. I did this during the initial build. No issues with the ballstud coming out.

Mason

Either way, CHECK YO BALLS MAN!

Mxer59

iTrader: (114)

What kind of temps are ppl seeing? In 17.5 my car seems to run a little hotter over my Kyosho trying to figure out if it's a weight issue or gearing

Fyrmed2

iTrader: (8)

I use one of these. http://shop.leadfingerrc.com/Diff-Co...l-LFR10089.htm Great for slipper discs too!!

Ruffy

iTrader: (3)

Our LHS hasn't had any ballstuds to buy yet, so yeah if you can find them buy them longer, add also a metal 1mm washer to the front side to protect the plastic part as well, then a locknut to the backside as mentioned...if you can find longer ballstuds to buy!

I've been looking for ballstuds and waiting for them from my LHS as some of my ballstuds (4 of them) have stripped out the hex on the top in less than 3 or 4 times removing them to make adjustments. They seem to be made of a "soft" alloy, or at least the secondary operation to make the hex may have left them soft in this area.

Ruffy

iTrader: (3)

I use the Leadfinger tool as well. It is very good for both rings and slipper pads!