137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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03-05-2014, 07:52 AM
#5161
For those of you who feel your rear end is too planted, have you even tried removing all of your ball stud washers from the rear brace? Seriously. It should be a massive difference in rotation and steering. Then add back washers until you like it.
Wayne
Wayne
03-05-2014, 07:57 AM
#5162
AE drivers with too much rear traction. Whoda' thunk it? Good post. You can always remove grip. Getting it when there's not enough is much harder.
03-05-2014, 08:05 AM
#5163
Tech Addict
Yes currently have none under the ball stud . Next will be shortening the link.
03-05-2014, 08:08 AM
#5164
Don't do that. That's too extreme imho. Try a softer front spring or a harder rear one first. Serious. Changing camber link lengths is almost always bad in the rear if the link positions you started with are used by the majority of folks who think the car is great.
03-05-2014, 08:23 AM
#5165
Just an fyi. Anyone looking for a car my lhs has 8 of them rcmadness 8607416501
03-05-2014, 08:23 AM
#5166
57
give the shorter link a try or
lengthening the car by moving the rear hubs back for more rotation.
Also on last post to you , please excuse me when I suggested to have someone test your ride.
Did not intend to sound like you needed more experience, rather when ever I get stumped with a problem having someone else's opinion and getting to drive other cars helps bring a new view . Sometimes the other car does not even drive as well as your own and this helps you buckle down on driving instead of searching for a solution that is not even going to help.
give the shorter link a try or
lengthening the car by moving the rear hubs back for more rotation.
Also on last post to you , please excuse me when I suggested to have someone test your ride.
Did not intend to sound like you needed more experience, rather when ever I get stumped with a problem having someone else's opinion and getting to drive other cars helps bring a new view . Sometimes the other car does not even drive as well as your own and this helps you buckle down on driving instead of searching for a solution that is not even going to help.
03-05-2014, 08:25 AM
#5167
Tech Apprentice
I had the taper/flat conversation with Kody the other night, he boiled it down to tapers are more responsive versus flat. So if you need more rebound go with the taper down. I have run 1.4x3 tapers on my B4.x for a year now and everyone that drives it comments on how plush it is.
03-05-2014, 08:29 AM
#5168
Check pm
03-05-2014, 08:33 AM
#5169
Why do people recommend a certain build(mm vs rm) for others. From my experience, I loved MM, until I got my B5r. It is a great car and when set up correctly, it rails 180's, sweepers, basically all the different styles of turning I have thrown at this car in 3 weeks. My bud bought a MM and my RM is hanging right there with him. I think for Stock class, it's a wash. Pick off drivers style, not preference of the masses. Mod might be better off with mm, however my other bud likes his B5r better than his Centro
03-05-2014, 08:39 AM
#5170
Bill !!!
last night sold the last mid, we did get about 50, have more coming Thursday.
Right now all we have is one rear b5.
Tip
Install a 1/2 m washer under the ball stud for the rear hub.
Will help prevent the stud being forced though the plastic and need replacing the hub.
Very common failure it seems..
last night sold the last mid, we did get about 50, have more coming Thursday.
Right now all we have is one rear b5.
Tip
Install a 1/2 m washer under the ball stud for the rear hub.
Will help prevent the stud being forced though the plastic and need replacing the hub.
Very common failure it seems..
03-05-2014, 08:42 AM
#5171
Bill !!!
last night sold the last mid, we did get about 50, have more coming Thursday.
Right now all we have is one rear b5.
Tip
Install a 1/2 m washer under the ball stud for the rear hub.
Will help prevent the stud being forced though the plastic and need replacing the hub.
Very common failure it seems..
last night sold the last mid, we did get about 50, have more coming Thursday.
Right now all we have is one rear b5.
Tip
Install a 1/2 m washer under the ball stud for the rear hub.
Will help prevent the stud being forced though the plastic and need replacing the hub.
Very common failure it seems..
03-05-2014, 08:47 AM
#5172
03-05-2014, 08:51 AM
#5173
I had the taper/flat conversation with Kody the other night, he boiled it down to tapers are more responsive versus flat. So if you need more rebound go with the taper down. I have run 1.4x3 tapers on my B4.x for a year now and everyone that drives it comments on how plush it is.
A winner...
Kudos to Bill for the best reply & answer .
taper is very useful for the rear b5, helps free the car and add steering response.
On the mid not so good as traction is more desirable.
57
try taper 1.6 front and rear
03-05-2014, 08:52 AM
#5174
Ugh, another machining problem on my kit. Was putting together my shocks right now and one of the shock shafts only has 1 groove for the e-clip to hold on the piston instead of the 2 needed. This plus one of my turn buckles not having threads on one side is getting a little irritating.
03-05-2014, 08:57 AM
#5175
Tech Addict
ok.. ran car last night at friends horse arena.. we built a rc track in there because of all the yuk weather. I have a tractor and vibra packer to make a heck of a nice track. its defin. not a high bite track but more a mid traction track. reminds me of a prepped outdoor track with the dirt.
anyway.. he has a b4.2 and t4.2 that's what he drives and they are really good.
I changed my setup a little on my b5m and shortened the rear camber links, moved rear hub forward, stiffer front springs and raised front ride height 1mm, ran a sq pack battery and slowed my steering down just a tad.. oh and ran bowties in back and ribs in front.. my car was dialed!!
on the choppy bumps the mid went thru smoother with less bouncing then the 4.2 , they both cornered well and had good traction. but I could get thru the rhythm section of the double triple double easier as the gyro effects in the air on the mid were much better. it was much easier to do faster more consistent laps with the mid then the b4.2. I did notice on 2 corners that were tighter 180's that the mid could carve the corner and the b4.2 would kind of whip the back end in the corner.. it was still good but for the smoother driver the mid was awesome.
we had one 20ft. triple that was a blast.. with the mid I just hit the brake between jump 2 and 3 land the downside and punch it.. it just squatted and rocketed away. the b4.2 would not land as smooth and maybe bounce just a tad and couldn't get on it as fast.
just thought would pass on hope as this is not going to be a high bite car only. ;-)
anyway.. he has a b4.2 and t4.2 that's what he drives and they are really good.
I changed my setup a little on my b5m and shortened the rear camber links, moved rear hub forward, stiffer front springs and raised front ride height 1mm, ran a sq pack battery and slowed my steering down just a tad.. oh and ran bowties in back and ribs in front.. my car was dialed!!
on the choppy bumps the mid went thru smoother with less bouncing then the 4.2 , they both cornered well and had good traction. but I could get thru the rhythm section of the double triple double easier as the gyro effects in the air on the mid were much better. it was much easier to do faster more consistent laps with the mid then the b4.2. I did notice on 2 corners that were tighter 180's that the mid could carve the corner and the b4.2 would kind of whip the back end in the corner.. it was still good but for the smoother driver the mid was awesome.
we had one 20ft. triple that was a blast.. with the mid I just hit the brake between jump 2 and 3 land the downside and punch it.. it just squatted and rocketed away. the b4.2 would not land as smooth and maybe bounce just a tad and couldn't get on it as fast.
just thought would pass on hope as this is not going to be a high bite car only. ;-)