phillypete

I had this problem too. I'm still not sure what caused it, but I replaced everything including the motor plate and housing. No issues since then.

tobamiester

iTrader: (360)

Hard to say, alot of variables. I run a 23T with an 8.5.

Scrad

iTrader: (16)

Chansharp, This may sound stupid, but make sure all your bearings are in the diff case and that they are good. Somehow I just recently must have had a bearing fall out while putting a diff back together.

MrHistory

iTrader: (2)

Got car together with Zach Rogers setup. Need to know a starting ride height for high grip track with small jumps.

I used the long shock ball ends on Rr shocks as in the sheet but really need to back the spring adjuster way up to lower rearend. Should I try the medium shock ball ends?

Jgins13

I'm hoping someone can shed some light: I bought a few spare wheels (and tires/inserts), and got the "EVO" style rear wheels from AKA which are listed as Kyo compatible. I went to track yesterday to put them on, and noticed that the axle doesn't stick out far enough past the wheel for the nut to fully seat. I took a closer look at the stock wheels that came with the kit and noticed the center is recessed allowing the nut to be flush with the outside of the wheel, and the nut to be fully seated on the axle. Can anyone confirm if they use the EVO wheels and have solved this problem? Or should I only get the stock Kyosho wheels (and do the stock wheels work with EVO tires)?

Thank you for your patience with this newbie to buggy racing.

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html

or get low profile serrated lock nuts. I would go with #1 for security (I myself just avoid any other wheels than kyosho).

ThePanda

iTrader: (68)

Yes on serated locknuts. A cheaper option are the Durango ones. 10 for only a few bucks.

dpcardoza

iTrader: (83)

Question for those running the v2 rear hubs. Are you guys running the inserts and smaller bearings or just running the larger bearings?

rosko

Just order the rb6 going to b running mm on indoor med to high bite clay. R the stock piston worth trying?

FallenAllDay

iTrader: (1)

Do these fit the rb6 http://www.amain.com/jconcepts-4mm-l...lack-4/p273896
Had the avid setup and the clamping hex fits poorly and binds up the drivetrain, tried shimming it and still no success, save yourself 20-30bucks and get some serrated wheel nuts.

Jason.Dias

You can also run these axles instead, http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Wheel-S...cs_p_4618.html use these to get the correct hub spacing, http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Aluminu...u_p_10868.html

Jaz406

iTrader: (50)

I have the avid axle set up on my rb6 and it works great. The longer axle allows me to run any wheel and they have lifetime replacement!

I did notice that they bind up like all hubs when you forget the gold spacer between the bearings.

I run the serrated nylocks from traxxas. Cheap and they work great

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

I ran the smaller bearings until I was able to get my hands on the larger bearing. For me, the larger bearing seemed to last longer that is why I went with that size.

If you can I would get 1.6mm x 2 and the 1.4mm x 3 hole pistons when you can. You can use the kit pistons but I think you will find the car not having enough pack in the shocks. You could try and compromise with heavier oil but even that has some drawbacks.

rosko

Ok thanks I did order those pistons with the kit so I'll just put the 3h1.4 in the front and the 1.6 n rear. Not going to try the sideways lipo thing yet I will b running mod. just not sure if I want to go servo, esc,lipo, motor or servo lipo, esc motor....which one gives more rear bite or is it not much difference?

dpcardoza

iTrader: (83)

Does anybody know if the associated avid 12mm shock tool works on the kyosho shocks to bleed the shocks?