Schumacher Mi5
#2296
Tech Master
I'd stand the rear shocks up.
#2297
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
@tcboy; totally agree with what MattW says above. Stand the rear shocks up, either to middle hole, or one in from the outside. In my very limited running so far, I found that the Evo prefers the rear shocks to be more upright than the 5. Need to test this a bit more on higher traction track though.
That would be the first thing I would change anyway. If that does to solve the problem, then look at adding shims under the lower arms.
As for the cut arms, they should give more grip all round. Uncut arms are like running super stuff graphite arms with bolt on carbon stiffeners, IMO. Which are fine if your running on mega high traction, but most of us don't, which is where cutting the arms comes in.
HiH
Ed
That would be the first thing I would change anyway. If that does to solve the problem, then look at adding shims under the lower arms.
As for the cut arms, they should give more grip all round. Uncut arms are like running super stuff graphite arms with bolt on carbon stiffeners, IMO. Which are fine if your running on mega high traction, but most of us don't, which is where cutting the arms comes in.
HiH
Ed
#2298
Tech Regular
@tcboy; totally agree with what MattW says above. Stand the rear shocks up, either to middle hole, or one in from the outside. In my very limited running so far, I found that the Evo prefers the rear shocks to be more upright than the 5. Need to test this a bit more on higher traction track though.
That would be the first thing I would change anyway. If that does to solve the problem, then look at adding shims under the lower arms.
As for the cut arms, they should give more grip all round. Uncut arms are like running super stuff graphite arms with bolt on carbon stiffeners, IMO. Which are fine if your running on mega high traction, but most of us don't, which is where cutting the arms comes in.
HiH
Ed
That would be the first thing I would change anyway. If that does to solve the problem, then look at adding shims under the lower arms.
As for the cut arms, they should give more grip all round. Uncut arms are like running super stuff graphite arms with bolt on carbon stiffeners, IMO. Which are fine if your running on mega high traction, but most of us don't, which is where cutting the arms comes in.
HiH
Ed
#2299
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
In my experience (from both schumacher and previous cars) the trick with suspension arm stiffness is to get the right balance between too soft (and losing responsiveness) and too hard (losing traction). Striking the right compromise will gain time, without affecting car handling balance. 99% of the time cut arms are the best compromise for the Mi5 & 5e.
Very rarely I would run un-cut rears, but always cut fronts.
HiH
Ed
#2300
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
TryHard - Since you know a lot about suspension and geometry setup for touring cars, have you taken the opportunity look at RC Crew Chief? I think you might enjoy it
Here's the link if your interested http://www.rccrewchief.wrightdesign.ca
Here's the link if your interested http://www.rccrewchief.wrightdesign.ca
#2301
Like this. Allows the arms to flex a little more.
In my experience (from both schumacher and previous cars) the trick with suspension arm stiffness is to get the right balance between too soft (and losing responsiveness) and too hard (losing traction). Striking the right compromise will gain time, without affecting car handling balance. 99% of the time cut arms are the best compromise for the Mi5 & 5e.
Very rarely I would run un-cut rears, but always cut fronts.
HiH
Ed
In my experience (from both schumacher and previous cars) the trick with suspension arm stiffness is to get the right balance between too soft (and losing responsiveness) and too hard (losing traction). Striking the right compromise will gain time, without affecting car handling balance. 99% of the time cut arms are the best compromise for the Mi5 & 5e.
Very rarely I would run un-cut rears, but always cut fronts.
HiH
Ed
#2302
I know a lot of people cut the arms, but I can't see how the arms flex more due to the 2 mounting points.
The graphite arms on the BD7 are stiffer and I really couldn't tell the difference on the track either.
Just my 2 cents on the subject...
The graphite arms on the BD7 are stiffer and I really couldn't tell the difference on the track either.
Just my 2 cents on the subject...
#2303
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
TryHard - Since you know a lot about suspension and geometry setup for touring cars, have you taken the opportunity look at RC Crew Chief? I think you might enjoy it
Here's the link if your interested http://www.rccrewchief.wrightdesign.ca
Here's the link if your interested http://www.rccrewchief.wrightdesign.ca
More often than not, if the crash is big enough, you'll pop the arm off the ball before breaking them. And I'd prefer the arm to break than rip apart a chassis..
Regards
Ed
Last edited by TryHard; 07-10-2014 at 03:00 PM.
#2304
Tech Regular
Like this. Allows the arms to flex a little more.
In my experience (from both schumacher and previous cars) the trick with suspension arm stiffness is to get the right balance between too soft (and losing responsiveness) and too hard (losing traction). Striking the right compromise will gain time, without affecting car handling balance. 99% of the time cut arms are the best compromise for the Mi5 & 5e.
Very rarely I would run un-cut rears, but always cut fronts.
HiH
Ed
In my experience (from both schumacher and previous cars) the trick with suspension arm stiffness is to get the right balance between too soft (and losing responsiveness) and too hard (losing traction). Striking the right compromise will gain time, without affecting car handling balance. 99% of the time cut arms are the best compromise for the Mi5 & 5e.
Very rarely I would run un-cut rears, but always cut fronts.
HiH
Ed
#2305
Cheers Ed and good to know.
I put the 2 degree rear arms on yesterday and do you put the same inserts from the kit setup?
I put the 2 degree rear arms on yesterday and do you put the same inserts from the kit setup?
#2306
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Hey all, just getting back into the hobby after 8yrs and will be getting the Evo shortly. Haven't built a car since the Mi2 (I think!), so looking for any build tips, is there anywhere that has them in one place? I've seen actionrc's website and Tryhards blog.
Thanks in advance,
Iain
Thanks in advance,
Iain
#2307
Tech Adept
Hey all, just getting back into the hobby after 8yrs and will be getting the Evo shortly. Haven't built a car since the Mi2 (I think!), so looking for any build tips, is there anywhere that has them in one place? I've seen actionrc's website and Tryhards blog.
Thanks in advance,
Iain
Thanks in advance,
Iain
Other then that thard site is really good
Last edited by tcboy1983; 07-11-2014 at 03:36 AM.
#2308
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Hey all, just getting back into the hobby after 8yrs and will be getting the Evo shortly. Haven't built a car since the Mi2 (I think!), so looking for any build tips, is there anywhere that has them in one place? I've seen actionrc's website and Tryhards blog.
Thanks in advance,
Iain
Thanks in advance,
Iain
I do have a draft evo build tip blog post on the go... Just need to find time to finish it off!
Also, I note your in Brisbane. Feel free to pop down to Logan tomorrow, we've got the 6hr enduro happening, and I'd be more than happy to help run you through any tips, and can have a look over the car too. Should be there from about 2ish till late.
Cheers
Ed
#2309
Tech Champion
iTrader: (62)
Well I got my second practice day on the rug yesterday. Noticed a few things that I'm going to have to work on. First, like a few other guys who posted here I noticed the rear end of my car has started to wash out in switch backs and long fast corners. Tested most of the obvious things to fix this but ended up removing the rear sway bar and the rear top deck brace to fix the problem. I really don't feel this is the way to fix the problem but it worked and lap times dropped... Also noticed that my pistons/shocks allow a lot of "Blow by" which made my shocks feel like they have no dampening. I was using 40 and 37.5 wt oil with yok pink and blue springs. Maybe I built something wrong because they just don't feel right...
#2310
Well I got my second practice day on the rug yesterday. Noticed a few things that I'm going to have to work on. First, like a few other guys who posted here I noticed the rear end of my car has started to wash out in switch backs and long fast corners. Tested most of the obvious things to fix this but ended up removing the rear sway bar and the rear top deck brace to fix the problem. I really don't feel this is the way to fix the problem but it worked and lap times dropped... Also noticed that my pistons/shocks allow a lot of "Blow by" which made my shocks feel like they have no dampening. I was using 40 and 37.5 wt oil with yok pink and blue springs. Maybe I built something wrong because they just don't feel right...
BTW The shock oil may be a little heavy for my liking. I think the 30 Associated is the best. I looking to come down to middle river in august we can work together.
I am planning to go to vegas this year. Hope my MI5 guys are going.