Originally Posted by hacker07

Hey guys, well, we said we would keep working on it some and boy have we figured some stuff out. You will have plenty of traction and plenty of steering with this one or at least should. A couple things, its hard to find space on the sheet to place more notes. This setup fixes the poor bump in condition the truck has, that is why you can run toe in and it doesn't do weird things.

-you will see witness marks on the front of the arms where the wheel turns in further now and on the steering links. Just dremel those until you get no new witness marks, doesn't take much.
-You want to use metal washers under the outer steering link balls for the additional 2mm of shimming.

Originally Posted by crazyhog

Hey Ryan, What are you referring to when you say "you will see witness marks on the front of the arms" where exactly are you dremeling?
Thanks

Originally Posted by Casper

The plastic rod end will hit the rim with raising the link on the spindle. A little dremel on the plastic rod end were it rubs gives some clearance.

Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer

Ryan,
I see casper is running those same ESC numbers for timing with the 4600. is that correct that I could run those same numbers with my 4600?

What difference will I see in performance with running the timing at 35 and changing the start and end curve to those RPM numbers?

Thanks for all your work.
Regarding the PM from a while ago, I'm waiting for my wife to schedule her next trip

Originally Posted by crazyhog

Hey Ryan, What are you referring to when you say "you will see witness marks on the front of the arms" where exactly are you dremeling?
Thanks

Originally Posted by hacker07

Hey guys, well, we said we would keep working on it some and boy have we figured some stuff out. You will have plenty of traction and plenty of steering with this one or at least should. A couple things, its hard to find space on the sheet to place more notes. This setup fixes the poor bump in condition the truck has, that is why you can run toe in and it doesn't do weird things.

-you will see witness marks on the front of the arms where the wheel turns in further now and on the steering links. Just dremel those until you get no new witness marks, doesn't take much.
-You want to use metal washers under the outer steering link balls for the additional 2mm of shimming.

Originally Posted by Casper

Setup works great. You do not need to remove the front droop "pad/screws" with this setup. that is only needed if you run max front kickup. This setup goes back to 0/0 settings and the screws can be left in place. Since we are not using the droop screws it does not matter if they are there or not though so....

Originally Posted by hacker07

Turk, The primary major issue with the steering on the SCTE is that when the tire travels up, it bumps IN, this is a big no no and makes for a vehicle that is inconsistent under braking and under landing. What these changes do (learning from the 8 3.0), help us be able to get the car to land better, steer in and out of a turn, and brake better. Overall, the car is more consistent. The reason we lowered the amount of front kick is to get more turn in, now that we could go to some toe in, to get the steering out of the turn for a more balanced steering and vehicle.

Originally Posted by hacker07

The outer ball always has to be run ball up so this is how we left it but placed an additional 2mm metal washer under it. We used the ones from the 22 line and just held them with pliers as we drove the screw through it, lol.


I am running my motor pretty hard but it is known I apparently don't pull as hard as most as I can run an identical car as others and come off a little cooler, so just putting that out there...lol. Always check temps during your test runs.

I am geared 16/39 with the pro4 hd 4300.
timing - 35
finish - type in 17500
start - of the options, choose the one in the 3000 range

current limit - 75 (I played with this a lot, more than 75 with this motor produces wheel spin and lower lap times)

brakes - 100 in esc, 37 on radio

minimum throttle - 1

I think those are the important ones...

Originally Posted by Casper

DISCLAIMER!!!!!
Using advance timing with 4 pole motors is harder on your batteries. AMP draw has gone up and the batteries are getting warmer. Make sure you have good batteries if you attempt to add timing to your 4 pole motors.

We are getting better top end out of the motors with additonal timing. We are ramping it with a pretty low start so you don't feel any kick in and have it ramp fairly quick so you get some benefit on short shoots as well. Gen 2 Data logging is showing these things are pulling over 30,000 RPM so you see full advance timing for most of the top end of the motor range.

Originally Posted by Casper

The plastic rod end will hit the rim with raising the link on the spindle. A little dremel on the plastic rod end were it rubs gives some clearance.

Originally Posted by hacker07

On the 4600, I like 14/41 gearing actually. on that motor, casper and I have been playing with starting the timing even lower. Whatever the next option below the 3000 range is. He seemed to like it.



A witness mark means that you will see on the front of the arms and on the turnbuckle ends that the wheel is rubbing some. You just want to dremel it a little and run again, keep doing this until you see no witness marks or at least very faint ones.

Originally Posted by Voloc

I have a question about something I can't seem to figure out, when my truck turns too much the cvd on the outside wheel will start binding and lockup entirely, is this just going to happen with too much steering and should I turn down my epa's or is there something I'm missing?

Originally Posted by Casper

Posted the latest setup in .pdf for easier reading on my web site.

www.casper-rc.com

Direct link.
New Setup

Originally Posted by Casper

It comes two wasy. One precut with all the vents the other without the vents cutout (stock)

http://www.tlracing.com/Search/Defau...rm=performance

Originally Posted by Casper

Posted the latest setup in .pdf for easier reading on my web site.

www.casper-rc.com

Direct link.
New Setup

Originally Posted by anr211

Is there supposed to be a 2mm washer under the inside and the outside ball? The bumpsteer column is cut short and I'm not sure.

Originally Posted by anr211

Is there supposed to be a 2mm washer under the inside and the outside ball? The bumpsteer column is cut short and I'm not sure.

Originally Posted by Jedev

Are these the same original thin lexan bodies or have they been updated with the thicker lexan yet?

Originally Posted by anr211

Is there supposed to be a 2mm washer under the inside and the outside ball? The bumpsteer column is cut short and I'm not sure.