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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 12-24-2015, 12:18 PM
  #24556  
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Feels like you making fun of me
I am just a few months into the new hobby and not that kind of excercized in painting/designing that kind of stuff.

Thats why I dont want to mess up the new toy (SC5M)
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Old 12-24-2015, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Kalio
Hmm, interesting idea. That would save weight and money. I might try that. Thanks!
This is what I did and it works great. That little of weight difference, in my opinion, would not even be noticeable. I is a lot tougher.
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Old 12-24-2015, 12:45 PM
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I ran a B5M wing on my DEX210 v2 just using the wing washers and body clip had a few flip overs and no cracks at all tough wing. Compared to the Proline wing i had that was heavyier in bigger / more downforce but it was much weaker.
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Old 12-24-2015, 01:18 PM
  #24559  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
Those are just mold numbers. Use the 'middle' size cup. Both front and rear.
Thanks
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Old 12-24-2015, 01:23 PM
  #24560  
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On the Front carrier blocks and Rear hubs there not marked L/R so how can you tell ?
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Old 12-24-2015, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by man1ac
Feels like you making fun of me
I am just a few months into the new hobby and not that kind of excercized in painting/designing that kind of stuff.

Thats why I dont want to mess up the new toy (SC5M)
No worries buddy

One Color, and plenty of decals, and it'll look dialed!
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Old 12-24-2015, 02:43 PM
  #24562  
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No prob
Was just looking for some kind of decals (definitely the wrong thread now ) with which I can "tune" the design (for example squares, hexes, triangles, circles, flames (or whatever)) a little bit. I could cut them myself but cutting 20 idendical triangles doesnt sound fun

I think I will go with neon green, gunmetal black and white...however still no idea on any specific (due to the paint schemes at the custom paint job thread are (for me) 1000 miles beyond my skills ) (I think I should get an airbrush )

However, going to a local indoof offroad course next week and having the first serious ride. One thing I noticed in my backyard (I am only used to 2wd buggies (again, new to hobby )) it's way to easy to have too much acceleration and speed in corners and get the truck flipping.
But I think thats mainly because I am used to buggies (B5), where flipping on flat surface is no option (at least I didnt get them to flip over ). Kind of new to have the center of gravity this way up

Are there any basic improvements for handling and having a tank which I should order next? (I really like the titanium turnbuckles on my B5 )
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Old 12-24-2015, 05:23 PM
  #24563  
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Has anyone here tried the Xfactory carbon fiber chassis?
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Old 12-24-2015, 05:43 PM
  #24564  
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I had problems with my wing cracking after just the first day of racing with the B5m included wing (though having a SCT land on my buggy during practice probably had a lot to do with it..). I'm going to replace it with the Proline Trifecta wing which is much tougher, it worked great and lasted forever on my old B4. So hopefully a tougher wing and buttons instead of clips should vastly increase wing durability. Well that and me becoming a better driver.
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Old 12-25-2015, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by tobamiester
No worries buddy

One Color, and plenty of decals, and it'll look dialed!
Stickers work wonders. Also eBay you can buy bodies already painted which is fun too or on here for pretty cheap.
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKXJ96
I'm pretty sure all the newer kits come with the light weight top shaft now. So if you want to switch to three gear you're that much further ahead.
I can confirm that...

Both the SC5M and T5M Team Kits I just built came with the lightweight top shafts. Very cool that they are including it standard now, and as was already mentioned, it makes the transition to a sweet 3-gear all that much easier

Merry Christmas everyone!
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:57 AM
  #24567  
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Originally Posted by Kalio
Running a 72t spur gear. 3 gear layout. The motor plate is brand new, doesn't appear to be bent. I have the pinion gear in as far as possible with the grub screw still being accessible.

On a related note, I noticed the spur gear has a tiny bit of inward/outward play in it. I noticed the Lite Edition instructions made mention of inserting a shim for the top shaft but the CE manual made no mention of this, so guess it's still needed there. This wouldn't have any affect on the placement of the pinion though, so it's not related to this particular problem I'm having.
I was curious about the play in my top shaft/spur as well when I built my B5M FL. Anyone have a part number or specs on the shim? Would be nice to take that play out a bit.

Thanks!
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Old 12-25-2015, 02:29 PM
  #24568  
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Originally Posted by Kalio
I had problems with my wing cracking after just the first day of racing with the B5m included wing (though having a SCT land on my buggy during practice probably had a lot to do with it..). I'm going to replace it with the Proline Trifecta wing which is much tougher, it worked great and lasted forever on my old B4. So hopefully a tougher wing and buttons instead of clips should vastly increase wing durability. Well that and me becoming a better driver.
Consider the Upgrade Rc 1/10 wing. It is thicker in certain and thinner in other areas which allows it to flex when you crash which helps fight cracking. I've a had few trifectas and they are super thick and heavy and almost brittle because they don't want to give and flex. Eventually the Trifectas will crack. Also, try trimming the wing way down for less drag, but also a longer life. Trimming it down with good round side support will allow it to flex. Overall I like the Upgrade RC wings with the variable thickness the best by far.
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Old 12-25-2015, 02:47 PM
  #24569  
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Originally Posted by Kalio
I had problems with my wing cracking after just the first day of racing with the B5m included wing (though having a SCT land on my buggy during practice probably had a lot to do with it..). I'm going to replace it with the Proline Trifecta wing which is much tougher, it worked great and lasted forever on my old B4. So hopefully a tougher wing and buttons instead of clips should vastly increase wing durability. Well that and me becoming a better driver.
After cutting the wing, use a dremel with a sanding drum to smooth the edges and round the corners. you want to sand off the cut marks and eliminate and hard corners, this is where the cracking starts. Oh and not crashing helps a lot!
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Old 12-25-2015, 04:05 PM
  #24570  
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Does anyone know if a 30mm fan waterfall will work with a jconcepts warrior body?
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