172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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03-14-2013, 06:18 AM
#5657
Brandon, maybe you can post this on the first thread. I'd hate to see someone struggle with the handling of their car due to antisquat changing from the RF2 block coming loose.
03-14-2013, 06:28 AM
#5658
The extra RF2 block(the stronger looking one with counter bores on the top) is for mid motor. It has clearance holes for the screws to pass thru to the mid motor bulkhead which keys into the pivot and holds it all together. If you try to use it for rear motor the screws will not get tight.
Brandon, maybe you can post this on the first thread. I'd hate to see someone struggle with the handling of their car due to antisquat changing from the RF2 block coming loose.
Brandon, maybe you can post this on the first thread. I'd hate to see someone struggle with the handling of their car due to antisquat changing from the RF2 block coming loose.
03-14-2013, 06:31 AM
#5659
I actually mentioned this earlier in this thread. I'm a machinist/tool and die maker. I'm fussy about everything but the counterbores on the top gave it away.
03-14-2013, 07:26 AM
#5661
You might be able to do that using a low profile, non-nylock nut like the ones used on the shock towers. The other problem will be you will lose some motor adjustment. If you're running stock you might have a problem with getting the motor far enough forward to run the gearing that needs to run.
03-14-2013, 07:48 AM
#5662
You might be able to do that using a low profile, non-nylock nut like the ones used on the shock towers. The other problem will be you will lose some motor adjustment. If you're running stock you might have a problem with getting the motor far enough forward to run the gearing that needs to run.
03-14-2013, 08:31 AM
#5663
Ok, you had me confused, you are talking about the rear block, and you are right, there are actually 2 versions of that, but if you follow the manual you should not end up with the wrong one, the thick/skinny RF2 they are talking about is for the front mount, and the only one actually marked RF2, I don't know why the rear ones are not marked.
03-14-2013, 08:59 AM
#5664
There should be a total Of 6 blocks in every kit. 2 rf2 loose in te mid motor parts bag. The other 2 rf2 and 2 rf are on a parts tree. The blocks in the bag are the Beefey pair
03-14-2013, 09:27 AM
#5665
I guess there is 6. The pivots on the trees are RR/RF(narrow),RR2/RF2(wide). I keep forgetting the other blocks come from the mid motor bag. They are RR2 and RF2. Like I said, i read his post quickly and over looked where he was talking about the front block. I assumed the he was talking about the mid motor RR2 block which won't work in rear motor due to not having enough material for the screw to bite into.
Last edited by Mike C; 03-14-2013 at 09:46 AM.
03-14-2013, 09:28 AM
#5666
Set your toe at 0 degrees with the car sitting at running ride height... press the front end to the ground and see if you have 0, toe in, or toe out. You want to be at 0 with the suspension compressed. You control the "tug" on the steering blocks, which affects toe on compression, by changing the height of the ballstud ON the steering block. If you have bump-in, you need to raise the ball stud. If you have bump-out, you need to lower it.
03-14-2013, 11:07 AM
#5667
Set your toe at 0 degrees with the car sitting at running ride height... press the front end to the ground and see if you have 0, toe in, or toe out. You want to be at 0 with the suspension compressed. You control the "tug" on the steering blocks, which affects toe on compression, by changing the height of the ballstud ON the steering block. If you have bump-in, you need to raise the ball stud. If you have bump-out, you need to lower it.
03-14-2013, 06:54 PM
#5670
Tech Initiate
Right on... Thanks for the info guy's