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Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread

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Old 01-24-2018, 07:02 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread
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Last edit by: alex4r
Kyosho ZX6.6 New Parts (* = required to update ZX6 to ZX6.6 platform)


LA359B - Center Mount Set (ZX6.6)*
LA375 - Center Diff. Gear Set(ZX6.6)*
LA375-01 - Center Diff. Gear Case Set(ZX6.6)
LA375-78 - Spur Gear(48P-78T/ZX6.6)
LA376 - Center Drive Shaft (71.5/ZX6.6)*
LA377 - Center Drive Shaft (79.5/ZX6.6)* (x2)
LA378 - Center Drive Shaft (88/ZX6.6)*
LA379 - Joint Cup Cover (ZX6/ZX6.6)*
LAW54B-01 - HD Chassis*
LA355B - Side guard set*
UM713B - Rear Arms (from RB6)*
UM561 - Outer rear hinge pins*
LA236-12B - 1.2mm Front sway bar*
LA351B 4-hole front shock tower*


Options
VVC Blades TFW126
Spare Blades TFW001-01

Manuals

Lazer ZX6.6
Lazer ZX6

After Market Bodies

JConcepts Silencer

Weight Reduction options for 13.5 Class

Chassis:
UMW711B - Carbon composite rear arms
LAW60 - Carbon composite front upper bulkhead
LAW61 - Carbon composite rear upper bulkhead
LAW52 - Carbon composite front chassis brace
LAW53 - Carbon composite rear chassis brace
LA209HB - Carbon composite gear boxes (pinion bearing retainer & upper gearbox half only, lower half not compatible/saves 4.6g total)
Driveline:
LA211B - Plastic drive cups for center drive shafts coming out of front & rear gear boxes (requires drilling two holes for set screws to secure LA379)
TFW001 - Aluminum blade style outdrives (for ball diff/requires TF013)
LA202 - Aluminum pinion shafts (for ball diff)
TFW126 - VVC outdrives (for gear diff - front/rear/center)
TFW008 - VVC cross pins (for gear diff - front/rear/center)
Misc:
LAB06LW - LW Blade body
SK0402 - Ti screw set (Available at Lunsfordracing.com)
PTK-T-2111 - Ti screw set (cheaper, slightly less durable option)
LNS7765 - Ti ball studs
LNS2688 - Ti Turnbuckles
LNS36107 - Ti Turnbuckles (super duty)
W0201H - Hard anodized lower shock balls
1-N3024A-R - Aluminum M3x2.4 nuts (for shock standoffs)
1-N3033NA-R - Aluminum M3x3.3 locknuts

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Old 04-02-2015, 11:11 AM
  #1381  
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Originally Posted by todb
how will my slipper affect the steering? Also I have the different colored slipper pads that i can try as well. On the set up sheets I see the slipper listed as seperates and direct. what does that mean and how do how i use it to tune the car?
It won't effect steering, but the gears for the diff are plastic. Run too tight of a slipper and you'll be changing gears out a lot. Ask xb4 owners. Hopefully Kyosho will come out with steel crown and pinion gears. I bet that by the time they finish up the center gear diff they will move all gears to steel.
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Old 04-02-2015, 11:34 AM
  #1382  
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UMW708 is a sway bar kit for the RB6. I used the bulkhead on my RB6 and everything else on my ZX6. The sway bars are to long so you need to trim there length.
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Old 04-02-2015, 02:03 PM
  #1383  
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Originally Posted by potatobed409
UMW708 is a sway bar kit for the RB6. I used the bulkhead on my RB6 and everything else on my ZX6. The sway bars are to long so you need to trim there length.
Thanks for that.
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Old 04-02-2015, 03:40 PM
  #1384  
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Good thing is that the 1.4 sway bar is included in the kit. copy paste from Amain.

•KYOUM724B Kyosho Rear Bulk Head w/Sway Bar Mount (Mid Motor)
•KYOUMW708-01 Kyosho Stabilizer Link Set (Mid Motor)
•KYOUMW708-11 Kyosho 1.1 Stabilizer Bar (Pink) (Mid Motor)
•KYOUMW708-12 Kyosho 1.2 Stabilizer Bar (Red) (Mid Motor)
•KYOUMW708-13 Kyosho 1.3 Stabilizer Bar (Orange) (Mid Motor)
•KYOUMW708-14 Kyosho 1.4 Stabilizer Bar (Yellow) (Mid Motor)
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Old 04-03-2015, 02:16 PM
  #1385  
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Default sway bar kit

Is there a difference between the RB6 and the ZX6 sway bars?
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Old 04-03-2015, 03:24 PM
  #1386  
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Hopefully i will know today.
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Old 04-03-2015, 04:02 PM
  #1387  
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Originally Posted by Kraig
Where did it push, going in, middle, out? To me, when you tightened the front diff it would make it push more going into the turn but when you removed the front bar that balanced out the change to the diff.

I am still running the kits pistons, springs, and bar but a hole at 18mm for the lower shock mount. Mine would push going in and in the middle of the turn. However, my front diff nut must be going bad because now that became a little loose and my car is better, not great but better. The shock lengths are what he has listed on his sheet.

If you get bored sometime and want to try something different give Chris Nelson's setup a try. It is pretty darn good around these parts.
Setup was relatively on point. Had to keep the same shock package on the rear or the car would be loose. Other then that, the best so far. Can drive it super hard, and not far off track record for wheeler. Love this car....
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Old 04-03-2015, 05:43 PM
  #1388  
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Is there another option to use for the shock ends that won't collapse so easily?
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Old 04-03-2015, 07:08 PM
  #1389  
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The rb6 swaybars longer and have a slightly different bend. The bend is a little flatter but i think they can still used if they are trimmed to fit.
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Old 04-04-2015, 08:57 AM
  #1390  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Setup was relatively on point. Had to keep the same shock package on the rear or the car would be loose. Other then that, the best so far. Can drive it super hard, and not far off track record for wheeler. Love this car....
Since we have been going back and forth which one did you end up with?
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Old 04-05-2015, 05:45 PM
  #1391  
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Originally Posted by Kraig
Since we have been going back and forth which one did you end up with?
Kept the electronics as Tebo has them, and his CRCR shock package. Took it go SRS yesterday and it was stuck to the track like glue. Gear diffs are built but not installed as of yet.
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Old 04-06-2015, 05:52 AM
  #1392  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Kept the electronics as Tebo has them, and his CRCR shock package. Took it go SRS yesterday and it was stuck to the track like glue. Gear diffs are built but not installed as of yet.
I have been running Tebo's Reedy Race setup, with a longer rear link. Car is hooked up pretty good. I ran my ball diffs somewhat loose but i actually tightened them down to like a md tight feel and the car drove a lot better. I tried the gear diffs but feel the ball diffs just feel better.
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Old 04-06-2015, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22
I have been running Tebo's Reedy Race setup, with a longer rear link. Car is hooked up pretty good. I ran my ball diffs somewhat loose but i actually tightened them down to like a md tight feel and the car drove a lot better. I tried the gear diffs but feel the ball diffs just feel better.
I'm beginning to feel the same way. Run the bLl diffs til fried before switching. I have a pretty good knowledge of how to tune gear diffs to exactly what I want to the car to do, so it shouldn't be that traumatic to switch how are you liking the 4PX? I had the PKSR but it went up in smoke when the rechargeable battery freaked out.
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Old 04-06-2015, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
I'm beginning to feel the same way. Run the bLl diffs til fried before switching. I have a pretty good knowledge of how to tune gear diffs to exactly what I want to the car to do, so it shouldn't be that traumatic to switch how are you liking the 4PX? I had the PKSR but it went up in smoke when the rechargeable battery freaked out.
Love it. came from a 4pks. the cheaper receivers is what sold me.
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Old 04-06-2015, 11:19 AM
  #1395  
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just have a quick question about toe been running the car for a couple of weeks and its really good! just confused a little bit on how to get a little more toe in the rear i was looking at the toe chart and to me using the EE bushings will give me 3.5 degrees of toe just want to make sure I'm looking at it correctly before i go ahead and put them on

thanks
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