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Old 02-10-2012, 08:13 AM
  #2791  
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Originally Posted by MCSEDanny
Speaking of.... Did anyone else soak there bearing to remove the grease before running there S411?
Usually I do and then once all the grease is gone I soak them in a lubricant over night. But the Serpent bearings felt great didn't really see a need for it.
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Old 02-10-2012, 08:21 AM
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My bearings felt smooth as well, but there is definitely some binding in the drive line (it is smooth, but not as free as I would like). I also noted the steering is not smooth after putting the ball cups on the top of the c-hubs.
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Akhor
What springs are and shock oil are you running?
I'm running AE 40wt all around with Serpent's yellow front and white rear springs, for our bumpy little track. For WCICS events I'd probably start with 45/40 - orange/yellow.
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Old 02-10-2012, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by MCSEDanny
Speaking of.... Did anyone else soak there bearing to remove the grease before running there S411?
Originally Posted by orcadigital
My bearings felt smooth as well, but there is definitely some binding in the drive line (it is smooth, but not as free as I would like).
I had some binding in my drive line to begin with. After coming from Xray and Schumacher i thought the Serpent bearings were pretty average. I soaked my bearings in shellite overnight and then used hudy bearing oil. They are ok now but i will be swapping them out for some Schumacher ceramics when funds allow. I still had a minor bind in my drive train but i felt that was due to a poor spur or pinion gear as when trying to set my gear mesh i would always find one high spot in the spur. When I changed to an Xray spur the drive train was freeer so I am now using Xray pinions and spurs with near Zero bind. I feel the last bit of bind is coming from a slighty out of round gear diff pulley. Hopefully this is going to be addressed with the upcoming team kit and a new gear diff housing.

Originally Posted by orcadigital
I also noted the steering is not smooth after putting the ball cups on the top of the c-hubs.
For the steering and ball cups try using Losi foam things to get rid of some slop and smooth out the steering action. I think these are great for any touring car.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Linkage-Rings
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Old 02-10-2012, 10:29 PM
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When referring to wheelbase, in specific rear wheelbase I read 4mm and 5mm as common spacing. How is that being determined? I have 4mm in front of wishbone (a 2mm and 2, 1mm spacers) and I have a single 2mm spacer behind (toward rear).
sorry If I made this confusing.
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Old 02-10-2012, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rdlkgliders
When referring to wheelbase, in specific rear wheelbase I read 4mm and 5mm as common spacing. How is that being determined? I have 4mm in front of wishbone (a 2mm and 2, 1mm spacers) and I have a single 2mm spacer behind (toward rear).
sorry If I made this confusing.
You have it right. 4 at the front of the rear arm and 2 at the back.
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Old 02-10-2012, 10:47 PM
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Default V2 steering rack

This is what it looks like when you flip the arms.

Last edited by Johnny Wishbone; 01-01-2013 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 02-10-2012, 10:51 PM
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Default Bumper mod

This is what I made to fix the bumper flex that can break the front of your chassis.

Last edited by Johnny Wishbone; 01-01-2013 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 02-11-2012, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by orcadigital
My bearings felt smooth as well, but there is definitely some binding in the drive line (it is smooth, but not as free as I would like).
get some 0.2mm shims and put them in between the shock tower mount and the bulkhead both front and rear. problem solved and very free
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Old 02-11-2012, 07:10 AM
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Default V2 Steering Rack

Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
This is what it looks like when you flip the arms.
Myself and James Reilly tested this change thoroughly yesterday night during our race day to find this change to help a ton with consistency and smoothness of steering travel from left to right. We found we were not only able to pick up a little time per lap by the car being easier to drive, we were also able to hold our line with no problem. At the beginning of the race day with arms standard we noticed we were close to pace but lap times showed we weren't consistent. Showing 10.15 for top5 10.25 for top 10 and 10.38 for top 20 which usually neither have our averages spread that far apart. Once we made the change of flipping the arms we saw averages like 10.12 for top 5 10.19 for top 10 and 10.24 for top 20. We also have to contribute the faster times with us learning the new layout a little better and finding a better setup but no doubt in our minds that when you flip the arms it definitely helps when you want to smooth out steering and help with consistency. Honestly made the car a little easier to drive.

-Alston Kelso
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Old 02-11-2012, 07:26 AM
  #2801  
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I ASSUME YOU ARE REFERING TO THE STEERING ARMS? IN THE CENTER WITH THE ACKERMAN PLATE?

I LIKE THE BUMPER MOD. I DESTROYED A 2MM CHASSIS BECAUSE OF BUMPER FLEX. I KEPT THE CHASSIS AND WILL CUT IT UP TO DO THIS. GOOD IDEA ON THAT DESIGN



Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
This is what it looks like when you flip the arms.
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Old 02-11-2012, 08:18 AM
  #2802  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
You have it right. 4 at the front of the rear arm and 2 at the back.
Thanks J. W
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Old 02-11-2012, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by BAD007SUZUKI
I ASSUME YOU ARE REFERING TO THE STEERING ARMS? IN THE CENTER WITH THE ACKERMAN PLATE?
Correct
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Old 02-11-2012, 08:33 AM
  #2804  
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Originally Posted by stacky150
get some 0.2mm shims and put them in between the shock tower mount and the bulkhead both front and rear. problem solved and very free
Under the aluminum mount and bulkhead raising the shock tower? or in between the CF shock tower and bulkhead? I assume the firsrt it just seems that would create some up down movement in the diff.
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Old 02-11-2012, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
This is what it looks like when you flip the arms.
You flip the arm ???

Why ?
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