Adam Drake talks about the new 8ight 2.0
11-24-2008, 12:51 AM
#256
Tech Apprentice
11-24-2008, 05:44 AM
#257
He did the same upgrade that the new 2.0 has on it. THis has a small counter sunk screw that creates the "contact" patch for your droop screws. This keeps from having steel on aluminum wear and ever changing ride height.
This way things stay the same as the steel/steel will nearly not wear.
This way things stay the same as the steel/steel will nearly not wear.
11-24-2008, 06:27 AM
#258
the Constant Droop adjusting was the thing that got me.......soo much to a point that I NEVER set my droop...some may call me crazy....but w/e it's worked for me....i Do realize what set-up wise what im missing as ive driven buddy's cars with droop all set so they say.......so im very excited to actually run some darn droop on my cars now.
11-24-2008, 07:50 AM
#259
Integra, what did you use to get the countersink in the chassis correct?
11-24-2008, 09:49 AM
#261
Bri.from the tool and die shop i buy my bits from the guy explained that most of my hardware (rc grade stuff) has the same countersink angle's....therefor a standard countersink bit would work just fine....BUT i will warn you...if you cheep out on a crappy bit...its gonna give you a crappy counter....i would recommend spending at least 15-20$ on a decent bit....also you'll need a 1/16 and 3/32 QUALITY bits to do the job....along with a punch or scratch all or something to mark Dead center.
11-25-2008, 12:59 AM
#262
i did this steel bump stop conversion to my chassis ages ago but i used a button head screw instead.
this is the part i used
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/15267
i found it was easier to get them out once they are worn down.
its way to hard getting the counter sunk screw out
this is the part i used
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/15267
i found it was easier to get them out once they are worn down.
its way to hard getting the counter sunk screw out
11-25-2008, 07:20 AM
#264
Bri.from the tool and die shop i buy my bits from the guy explained that most of my hardware (rc grade stuff) has the same countersink angle's....therefor a standard countersink bit would work just fine....BUT i will warn you...if you cheep out on a crappy bit...its gonna give you a crappy counter....i would recommend spending at least 15-20$ on a decent bit....also you'll need a 1/16 and 3/32 QUALITY bits to do the job....along with a punch or scratch all or something to mark Dead center.
You can use 3/8" x 82* three flute countersink. Perfect for making 4-40 to 8-32 standard countersunk holes. Then you can pick up a 4-40 tap from Sears or somewhere like that, and a punch. That should do the trick.
11-25-2008, 08:08 AM
#265
DirtyDezPirate- What clutch set-up are you running? Try richening the hsn even more. When are you going to Rev next?
losi_racer- I don't get out to The Nitro Pit that often. It's a five hour drive. What engine are you running? Try the following clutch set-up. 13/48, make sure you sand the inside of the clutch bell and spray all the oil / grease out of the bearings. I use Losi bearings and the following clutch set-up: two plastic shoes with green springs and two alum shoes with gold springs.
losi_racer- I don't get out to The Nitro Pit that often. It's a five hour drive. What engine are you running? Try the following clutch set-up. 13/48, make sure you sand the inside of the clutch bell and spray all the oil / grease out of the bearings. I use Losi bearings and the following clutch set-up: two plastic shoes with green springs and two alum shoes with gold springs.
11-25-2008, 08:12 AM
#266
Sorry to intrude on the 2.0 thread dudes. Adam, if you have time bro, can you chime in on the Losi 8ight build and setup thread as well? THAT WOULD ROCK!! cheers! TW
11-25-2008, 05:28 PM
#267
DirtyDezPirate- What clutch set-up are you running? Try richening the hsn even more. When are you going to Rev next?
losi_racer- I don't get out to The Nitro Pit that often. It's a five hour drive. What engine are you running? Try the following clutch set-up. 13/48, make sure you sand the inside of the clutch bell and spray all the oil / grease out of the bearings. I use Losi bearings and the following clutch set-up: two plastic shoes with green springs and two alum shoes with gold springs.
losi_racer- I don't get out to The Nitro Pit that often. It's a five hour drive. What engine are you running? Try the following clutch set-up. 13/48, make sure you sand the inside of the clutch bell and spray all the oil / grease out of the bearings. I use Losi bearings and the following clutch set-up: two plastic shoes with green springs and two alum shoes with gold springs.
11-25-2008, 08:10 PM
#268
11-26-2008, 07:24 AM
#269
Adam, What is the easiest way to get the carb out of the motor. I want to clean my GRP .21, but i cant get the carb out. Even when i remove the screw and 2 pieces that hold it.
11-27-2008, 10:19 PM
#270
Just bought a roller yesterday, honestly if it was a kit I probably wouldn't have got it because I just built a MBX6 and I just didn't feel like building another back to back. Anyway, my track is tight, smooth clay with med to high bite and large jumps. Using the stock setup as a baseline can anyone ( or Adam if you have time) suggest what changes might make it better for this type track? thanks
Last edited by KyJoe340; 11-30-2008 at 06:04 PM.