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Old 03-27-2013, 09:10 PM
  #1606  
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You'd need 2 of these wouldn't you? One for the front and one for the back
What exactly does both camber in/out and toe in/out do to drifting?
Sorry for all the noob questions but I've only dealt with 1/8 truggys and MT's, so this geometry stuff is all kinda French to me
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Old 03-27-2013, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by muney
You'd need 2 of these wouldn't you? One for the front and one for the back
What exactly does both camber in/out and toe in/out do to drifting?
Sorry for all the noob questions but I've only dealt with 1/8 truggys and MT's, so this geometry stuff is all kinda French to me
The front is a 0* part #SAK-D317/PK front rear mounts part #SAK-X22/PK rear front mounts part #SAK-X23/PK you need suspension balls for the pins to fit

Camber effect the grip and slip toe out is to help control the car when travelling in a straight line but it also effects the ackerman angle at full lock

a good start point for camber is around -5* front and -3* to -5* rear, toe out should be around 1*. I also found that rear toe in should be at least 2*, 3* is fine any less than 2* and the rear becomes very hard to control
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Old 03-28-2013, 01:25 AM
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im gettin kinda confused here..if all im going to do is tackle the rear toe in to zero..would i need a front rear and a rear rear mounts..OR would i just leave the front rears as stock and buy just the rear rear mount to straighten up the toe?
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Old 03-28-2013, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by muney
im gettin kinda confused here..if all im going to do is tackle the rear toe in to zero..would i need a front rear and a rear rear mounts..OR would i just leave the front rears as stock and buy just the rear rear mount to straighten up the toe?
you should grab the rear mounts at least as you can't just install the rear mount without the suspension balls and that could change the length of the pins so your better off grabbing all the rear mounts and the suspension balls, and if you get all the rear mounts in alloy you might as well get the fronts as well to even it up. I also wouldn't take the rear to 0* toe in even 1* isn't enough. you won't have an enjoyable experience learning to drift this chassis with 0* toe in on the rear, the toe helps to control the drift on the rear. I did have 1* toe in but changed to 2* and that helped a lot.

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Old 03-28-2013, 01:33 PM
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I hate the front end of this car. Well, I mean how the front shock tower mounts with those stupid nuts that always fall out, I've lost all of mine. What size are they? M3 thread but how thick? And has anybody come up with a better design?
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Old 03-28-2013, 03:06 PM
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I am hoping to be picking up a kit next week. Never had a drifter before so it will be my first. Not even sure where to start with motor and ESC yet. Should be fun. Any advice on things that need to replaced from the basic kit right away or is it enough to get going and see what I need down the road?
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Old 03-29-2013, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by academygaz
I hate the front end of this car. Well, I mean how the front shock tower mounts with those stupid nuts that always fall out, I've lost all of mine. What size are they? M3 thread but how thick? And has anybody come up with a better design?
I have never had a problem with mine...but

threadlock will help keep it in place and not fall out

I am hoping to be picking up a kit next week. Never had a drifter before so it will be my first. Not even sure where to start with motor and ESC yet. Should be fun. Any advice on things that need to replaced from the basic kit right away or is it enough to get going and see what I need down the road?
@JoeFkling
you will want the UWA CVDs...and alumium steering for it..the stock CVDs are limited and you will get chatter/vibrations at full lock. Plus, the NEW aluminum rear pulley carrier with built in belt tensioner would be good as well since there is slop with the stock chassis as opposed to the carbon chassis

for ESC/motor combos...Hobbywing Xerun are good combos....you can get them at hobbypartz.com....go with something like 10.5T motor
also, you will want a FAST steering servo


@Pickled
how are you liking those magnet mounts? I think I will go back to stock body mounts for now...the new drift track is quite technical and I am hitting rails and wall too much and with the blind spots...I need the extra protection that the body gives to protect my chassis

I broke one of the lower ball ends on the lower arms and also broke one of the turnbuckles on the upper yokomo C arms for the KPI.
:-(

Last edited by eunique; 03-29-2013 at 06:24 AM.
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeFkling
I am hoping to be picking up a kit next week. Never had a drifter before so it will be my first. Not even sure where to start with motor and ESC yet. Should be fun. Any advice on things that need to replaced from the basic kit right away or is it enough to get going and see what I need down the road?
You might want to get a Front One Way as well, also eunique I just installed a new centre belt and it's sloppy

Originally Posted by eunique
@Pickled
how are you liking those magnet mounts? I think I will go back to stock body mounts for now...the new drift track is quite technical and I am hitting rails and wall too much and with the blind spots...I need the extra protection that the body gives to protect my chassis.

I broke one of the lower ball ends on the lower arms and also broke one of the turnbuckles on the upper yokomo C arms for the KPI.
:-(
yeah I've broke a ball end or two on my KPI as well or just bent them when I've hit an obstacle like a pole etc, I bought a set of stainless lower arms off skr8pn and they came with some heavy duty ball ends with pillow balls in them. I do have issues with wind getting under the shell and lifting it off the chassis when I'm drifting outside. I find that if I hit something and it does come loose I just wiggle the steering a few times and it re-locates itself again.

Last edited by pickled; 03-29-2013 at 08:08 AM.
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:46 AM
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Got my XXX-D a couple of days ago and it is sweet. I'm still waiting on some things like the motor and a servo. I still need to get a battery for it, and I just ordered a 48P spur and pinion as it comes with 64P spur but I'll probably be using it outside and 64P isn't good outdoors. Anyway here's a pick of my new chassis and the ESC





I got a Tekin Redline Gen 2 8.5T and a PowerHD low profile servo coming to keep the red theme going lol
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:01 AM
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That's looking awesome, Pickled. Do you have a link to a thread of your build?

Also, where in the hell have I been... I had no idea that Keyence made ESCs for our hobby! I've used Keyence sensors and switches for years in industrial applications, but never knew they had a line of RC electronics! Man, I gotta get on that!
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:18 AM
  #1616  
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Originally Posted by Rodarbal
That's looking awesome, Pickled. Do you have a link to a thread of your build?

Also, where in the hell have I been... I had no idea that Keyence made ESCs for our hobby! I've used Keyence sensors and switches for years in industrial applications, but never knew they had a line of RC electronics! Man, I gotta get on that!
Here's my build thread over at DM http://forum.driftmission.com/Thread...xxx-d-vip-plus The XXX-D VIP is a limited plus version for the Japanese market it comes with alloy uprights and wide rear shock tower I payed $540 for it including shipping thats atleast 200 bucks cheaper than getting it elsewhere. The ESC is made by Keyence Japan it's a Tachyon Airia and it wasn't cheap although it cost me less to order it from RC-ART in Japan than to purchase it here in Australia even with shipping lol it cost me $250ish including shipping
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:36 AM
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Thanks for posting the link!

Originally Posted by pickled
it's a Tachyon Airia and it wasn't cheap although it cost me less to order it from RC-ART in Japan than to purchase it here in Australia even with shipping lol it cost me $250ish including shipping
Yowsa! The laser and fiber sensors I've used from Keyence in my former industrial life were also premium pieces for sure.

No U.S. distribution for their ESCs as far as I can tell. Not that I could justify buying one, but it is pretty darn cool.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:33 AM
  #1618  
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Thanks for the tips! I cant wait to pick this up. A fast servo was mentioned but what about torque? Should I really just be concentrating on speed more than anything? Still undecided on a motor/esc setup but I might have something sitting in a box at home to get me moving until I make a decision.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:13 AM
  #1619  
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Originally Posted by JoeFkling
Thanks for the tips! I cant wait to pick this up. A fast servo was mentioned but what about torque? Should I really just be concentrating on speed more than anything? Still undecided on a motor/esc setup but I might have something sitting in a box at home to get me moving until I make a decision.
SAVOX (#SC-1251MG) Low Profile High Speed Servo or Power HD High Speed Titanium Gear Low Profile Servo look them up on rcmart

Originally Posted by Rodarbal
Thanks for posting the link!

Yowsa! The laser and fiber sensors I've used from Keyence in my former industrial life were also premium pieces for sure.

No U.S. distribution for their ESCs as far as I can tell. Not that I could justify buying one, but it is pretty darn cool.
Here's the link to the page on RC-ART I took a guess at the price before I think it's closer to $220 and I'm planning on rewiring it with red wires and black shrink also for the theme
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Old 03-29-2013, 06:08 PM
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Thank you for the link. Savox is good stuff for sure. Added to the soon to buy parts list.
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