![U.S. Vintage Trans-Am [PICS & PAINT Discussion ONLY!!!]](https://www.rctech.net/forum/iconimages/painting-designs-graphics-photography/u-s-vintage-trans-am-%5Bpics-paint-discussion-only-%5D_ltr.gif)
294LikesU.S. Vintage Trans-Am [PICS & PAINT Discussion ONLY!!!]
11-03-2012, 04:46 PM
#3361
OK, so since I had to give my Rug Rats driver back to my daughter, I swiped this gem out of the Halloween stuff. Mounted it on a body post with a little goo and a screw down from the top also. Its mounted firmly.
I guess he's "scale" if you allow dead drivers.
The orange eyes I used a paper punch on some neon orange sticker sheet to make the dots.
Ran him last night in the orange 69 Camaro at Indy RC Raceway. We had a great turnout of VTA!
I guess he's "scale" if you allow dead drivers.
The orange eyes I used a paper punch on some neon orange sticker sheet to make the dots.Ran him last night in the orange 69 Camaro at Indy RC Raceway. We had a great turnout of VTA!
My son wants to use ninja turtle heads on the hpi driver
I was looking at gitting real bobble heads made of us but
Wow they can range form $100 to 300 that's just a bit much
They should make a driver with a slot to put a pic of your self in
Cause I don't know about you all but I wanna drive while I'm driving lol
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11-03-2012, 08:41 PM
#3363
Scott that's Great I love it I'm still looking for a good driver
My son wants to use ninja turtle heads on the hpi driver
I was looking at gitting real bobble heads made of us but
Wow they can range form $100 to 300 that's just a bit much
They should make a driver with a slot to put a pic of your self in
Cause I don't know about you all but I wanna drive while I'm driving lol
My son wants to use ninja turtle heads on the hpi driver
I was looking at gitting real bobble heads made of us but
Wow they can range form $100 to 300 that's just a bit much
They should make a driver with a slot to put a pic of your self in
Cause I don't know about you all but I wanna drive while I'm driving lol
Found these at our local dollar store. They had a few different ones and the gal said the get some in different varieties for different seasons. Maybe open would be close? The lights in the eye flash and she screams when the head shakes hard. Perfect for a good crash or wall
11-03-2012, 09:44 PM
#3364
My first VTA. Nothing special. Just hugger orange with the regular sticker sheet. Windows are just tinted not black. Lighting makes them look black. Had to throw this together at 1am last night to race this morning. It doesnt even have all the stickers on it yet. Now that I have time I'll put the rest on.
11-03-2012, 10:47 PM
#3365
I have been getting some accolades about the rust bucket car.. Thanks everyone, it truly is a great looking job in person and I love it. I have had a few offers to buy it and orders from people who want one themselves. Pm me if you are interested.
If you are adventurous and have some time on your hands, here is basically how you do it. It does take some time and the decals on the outside are a pain.
There are about 7 layers of paint on the car. Three layers on the inside. Each panel is painted a different color so if the car wears the paint off the outside a different color is revealed. Then there a backing coat and sealing coal with rustolium. That stuff really protects the paint. Before, the fascolor would rub off on any wear points light tire rub or around the body posts. Now it stays nice.
On the outside I first scuffed the body up and layed a thick coat of a reddish brown "rusty" color. While it was still wet I sprinkled table salt on it.
Then I painted the various body panels different colors. Faded and muted works best as these are supposed to be colors that got painted over in the vehicles life time. There are a few spots where I simulated body filler and replacement panels. You may never see them but they are there.
Next, you take a special paint that has actual iron dust in it. I got it at michaels crafts. There are two parts, the iron paint and a rusting agent. Paint the car in the spots where you want the rust to show. I would do this in stages as the longer the iron paint dries, the deeper the rust color gets. Paint a few spots here and there, let it dry a day and then paint a few more spots, you can even layer over rusty spots you already did.
I don't know if the "layering" of the rust actually works and shows but what the heck, it may be an extra step but at this point, why get in a hurry!
Once the iron paint has dried to your liking, coat the iron paint spots with rubber cement. This is where you can get artsy as you will remove the glue later and iron paint will show through as well as any of the base layer paint coats. Try let the glue over lap the iron and the color in a few spots and in other spots don't coat all of the iron paint with glue. This will best simulate the random effects of Mother Nature as paint peels from rust and weathering.
Finally, paint you final layers of paint. In my case it was the white. I then painted the red stripe and then the green pin stripes. Lastly I painted all the logos. This was tough as when I removed the paint masks some of the iron paint was prematurely revealed. In those spots I recovered it with rubber cement and continued to paint. Once this one done I thought that the car needed something so I repainted the one door a different color.
Once complete and dry, you take duct tape and tack the body, removing the rubber cement and revealing the under layers of paint and iron paint.
Sand down the body to age it to your liking. This is where you will remove the salt and get that pitted look. Try not to sand all of the iron paint off either.
Finally, you use the rusting agent by brushing it on the iron spots. You can use a sponge, a rag, or a brush, it doesn't matter. Let it sit. The next day, hit a few spots with the agent but leave others alone.
This is optional but I think it gives a more layered and random look.
That is it, Your done. Now that you intentionally beat and aged it, go accidentally beat it up!
If you are adventurous and have some time on your hands, here is basically how you do it. It does take some time and the decals on the outside are a pain.
There are about 7 layers of paint on the car. Three layers on the inside. Each panel is painted a different color so if the car wears the paint off the outside a different color is revealed. Then there a backing coat and sealing coal with rustolium. That stuff really protects the paint. Before, the fascolor would rub off on any wear points light tire rub or around the body posts. Now it stays nice.
On the outside I first scuffed the body up and layed a thick coat of a reddish brown "rusty" color. While it was still wet I sprinkled table salt on it.
Then I painted the various body panels different colors. Faded and muted works best as these are supposed to be colors that got painted over in the vehicles life time. There are a few spots where I simulated body filler and replacement panels. You may never see them but they are there.
Next, you take a special paint that has actual iron dust in it. I got it at michaels crafts. There are two parts, the iron paint and a rusting agent. Paint the car in the spots where you want the rust to show. I would do this in stages as the longer the iron paint dries, the deeper the rust color gets. Paint a few spots here and there, let it dry a day and then paint a few more spots, you can even layer over rusty spots you already did.
I don't know if the "layering" of the rust actually works and shows but what the heck, it may be an extra step but at this point, why get in a hurry!
Once the iron paint has dried to your liking, coat the iron paint spots with rubber cement. This is where you can get artsy as you will remove the glue later and iron paint will show through as well as any of the base layer paint coats. Try let the glue over lap the iron and the color in a few spots and in other spots don't coat all of the iron paint with glue. This will best simulate the random effects of Mother Nature as paint peels from rust and weathering.
Finally, paint you final layers of paint. In my case it was the white. I then painted the red stripe and then the green pin stripes. Lastly I painted all the logos. This was tough as when I removed the paint masks some of the iron paint was prematurely revealed. In those spots I recovered it with rubber cement and continued to paint. Once this one done I thought that the car needed something so I repainted the one door a different color.
Once complete and dry, you take duct tape and tack the body, removing the rubber cement and revealing the under layers of paint and iron paint.
Sand down the body to age it to your liking. This is where you will remove the salt and get that pitted look. Try not to sand all of the iron paint off either.
Finally, you use the rusting agent by brushing it on the iron spots. You can use a sponge, a rag, or a brush, it doesn't matter. Let it sit. The next day, hit a few spots with the agent but leave others alone.
This is optional but I think it gives a more layered and random look.
That is it, Your done. Now that you intentionally beat and aged it, go accidentally beat it up!
11-04-2012, 03:41 AM
#3366
Love it. Came out a treat. Thanks for the write up above too. Will give this a go one of these days.... Coincidence, or not?? You and another Junkyard posted some time ago also had a blue door with 2 lower stripes (or was that a common camaro paint job in the day).
11-04-2012, 05:25 AM
#3367
His rusty paint is so good my first reaction was, "if I had a 68 Camaro like that, I'd sure take better care of it!"
I'm sensing You've done some model railroading in the past? Those guys spend HOURS trying to weather their train cars and buildings so they look real.
Odin, simple and clean job. I think it looks great. The more time I put into a body in terms of airbrushing and graphics, the less I want to beat it on the track. Natural reaction of course, but it probably affects my racing.
I'm sensing You've done some model railroading in the past? Those guys spend HOURS trying to weather their train cars and buildings so they look real.
Odin, simple and clean job. I think it looks great. The more time I put into a body in terms of airbrushing and graphics, the less I want to beat it on the track. Natural reaction of course, but it probably affects my racing.
11-04-2012, 06:44 AM
#3368
Yeah, that car was where I got the original idea for the aged look. After I got it mostly done I realized it needed something more so I painted it blue. I then realized it was the same design. I just told everyone at our local track that I got the door from Tracy, a local racer.
11-04-2012, 08:10 AM
#3369
Need rusty body clips too. Those look too nice! 
11-04-2012, 08:56 AM
#3371
11-04-2012, 09:10 AM
#3372
Pete,
Found these at our local dollar store. They had a few different ones and the gal said the get some in different varieties for different seasons. Maybe open would be close? The lights in the eye flash and she screams when the head shakes hard. Perfect for a good crash or wall
Found these at our local dollar store. They had a few different ones and the gal said the get some in different varieties for different seasons. Maybe open would be close? The lights in the eye flash and she screams when the head shakes hard. Perfect for a good crash or wall
I ment the REAL ones that you have made to look like yourself
I seen them on tv once but I remember they were a lot of money
To have made
Btw love the new/ old CAMARO lmao
You have way to much time on your hands
And the orange one with the skulls you should have put in the cfex
Paint comp that looked sick and yes I seen the xray logo in it
Bravo
11-04-2012, 10:23 AM
#3373
Lmao my kids got one trick or treating
I ment the REAL ones that you have made to look like yourself
I seen them on tv once but I remember they were a lot of money
To have made
Btw love the new/ old CAMARO lmao
You have way to much time on your hands
And the orange one with the skulls you should have put in the cfex
Paint comp that looked sick and yes I seen the xray logo in it
Bravo
I ment the REAL ones that you have made to look like yourself
I seen them on tv once but I remember they were a lot of money
To have made
Btw love the new/ old CAMARO lmao
You have way to much time on your hands
And the orange one with the skulls you should have put in the cfex
Paint comp that looked sick and yes I seen the xray logo in it
Bravo
Pm sent your way.
11-04-2012, 11:17 AM
#3374
Thanks, yeah the real ones do cost a lot to have made. That body did take a lot of time but worth it. I never thought about putting it in the comp, didn't finish it completely until Friday though. A friend of mine saw it and wants me to paint his gun stock.
Pm sent your way.
Pm sent your way.
11-04-2012, 11:27 AM
#3375
Yeah, that car was where I got the original idea for the aged look. After I got it mostly done I realized it needed something more so I painted it blue. I then realized it was the same design. I just told everyone at our local track that I got the door from Tracy, a local racer.
