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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 08-28-2015, 03:32 PM
  #22471  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
A post like this with the vehicles listed in your sig. always makes me ask. How much experience do you have driving a 2wd buggy? Is this a set up issue or do you need to adapt your driving style to the inherent push that all 2wd buggies have on power..?

Where do you race?
What tires are you running? Are they the same as the local fast guys?
What battery are you running, shorty or brick?
Appreciate your patience with me, here goes:

zero experience with 2wd buggy, literally first time driving one when I took mine out last weekend. I run primarily outdoor, but going to start indoor racing at LSR in Sacramento soon. The surface is a medium-high bite well-prepped clay surface.

I was running with a friend who has a bit more experience and his B5m seemed to find the inside line more easily, although, I realize this is very hard to tell just by watching the buggy, i didn't drive his, so I can't say 100%, but i'm like 90% sure I've got a minor setup issue.

I'm running Dirt Webs Gold in the rear and Proline Electron MC front. Most fast guys seem to be running dirt webs gold on all corners. Shop was out of Dirt Web fronts so I went with the electron. Local guy said Electrons are fine too.. but no one seems to run them if they can get dirt webs. I've run barcodes on my SCT410.3 at the track with pretty good results...

Battery is an interesting question since this was one of the areas I mean to experiment during my next practice session. I'm running shorties and I have them all the way back. I was thinking, maybe if i moved the shorty all the way forward it would get more weight over the front wheels and help reduce my understeer.
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Old 08-28-2015, 03:40 PM
  #22472  
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HoldDaMayo---It sounds like you are running indoor clay based on your tire choice. I would recommend that you find the matching Gold dirtwebs for the front as tire choice (especially indoor clay) is very important. You should always try to match them up. Also, the condition of those tires indoor are essential. You CANNOT take them out of the package and expect them to be great, there is a break in period...this can be accelerated by running them in on the street. You want the pin of the tire to have an edge similar to /| instead of just a straight 90° up. Tire sauce is also a key ingredient, ask some of the local guys what they use and maybe see if one of them can take your car for a lap to help it out. The Brent Thielke setup on rc10.com is a great starting point for indoor clay. Lastly you cannot drive a 2wd buggy like a 4wd sc or anything else out there really. They take finesse and you may just need to get a few things sorted out and practice practice practice.

Brent's 8/12/15 setup: http://www.teamassociated.com/setupsheets/RC10B5M/
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Old 08-28-2015, 03:54 PM
  #22473  
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Originally Posted by HoldDaMayo
Appreciate your patience with me, here goes:

zero experience with 2wd buggy, literally first time driving one when I took mine out last weekend. I run primarily outdoor, but going to start indoor racing at LSR in Sacramento soon. The surface is a medium-high bite well-prepped clay surface.

I was running with a friend who has a bit more experience and his B5m seemed to find the inside line more easily, although, I realize this is very hard to tell just by watching the buggy, i didn't drive his, so I can't say 100%, but i'm like 90% sure I've got a minor setup issue.

I'm running Dirt Webs Gold in the rear and Proline Electron MC front. Most fast guys seem to be running dirt webs gold on all corners. Shop was out of Dirt Web fronts so I went with the electron. Local guy said Electrons are fine too.. but no one seems to run them if they can get dirt webs. I've run barcodes on my SCT410.3 at the track with pretty good results...

Battery is an interesting question since this was one of the areas I mean to experiment during my next practice session. I'm running shorties and I have them all the way back. I was thinking, maybe if i moved the shorty all the way forward it would get more weight over the front wheels and help reduce my understeer.
mixing rubber can have undesired effects. I rarely fine if good.
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Old 08-28-2015, 03:54 PM
  #22474  
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My biggest struggle was trying to figure out what a 2wd buggy was suppose to feel like. Along with what Matt said about tires. While each driver has a certain style, letting a "fast" or seasoned racer drive you car and give their input on how it's driving can be huge in helping you understand if it's the set up or if you need to adapt to the car. What may feel like a huge push, might not be as bad as you think. It could be, well, just the fact that it's a 2wd buggy.
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Old 08-28-2015, 04:18 PM
  #22475  
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Originally Posted by HoldDaMayo
Appreciate your patience with me, here goes:

zero experience with 2wd buggy, literally first time driving one when I took mine out last weekend. I run primarily outdoor, but going to start indoor racing at LSR in Sacramento soon. The surface is a medium-high bite well-prepped clay surface.

I was running with a friend who has a bit more experience and his B5m seemed to find the inside line more easily, although, I realize this is very hard to tell just by watching the buggy, i didn't drive his, so I can't say 100%, but i'm like 90% sure I've got a minor setup issue.

I'm running Dirt Webs Gold in the rear and Proline Electron MC front. Most fast guys seem to be running dirt webs gold on all corners. Shop was out of Dirt Web fronts so I went with the electron. Local guy said Electrons are fine too.. but no one seems to run them if they can get dirt webs. I've run barcodes on my SCT410.3 at the track with pretty good results...

Battery is an interesting question since this was one of the areas I mean to experiment during my next practice session. I'm running shorties and I have them all the way back. I was thinking, maybe if i moved the shorty all the way forward it would get more weight over the front wheels and help reduce my understeer.
Having just gone through what you are now experiencing a good portion of what you will learn is, a 2WD buggy is all about maximizing the bit of front end grip with out sacrificing too much of the back end traction.

Move that battery all the way forward and you'll be fighting the jumps, always coming in nose heavy and being forced to play the throttle\brake game to come in clean and fast on the landing. Get the buggy balanced for a clean launch with out requiring too much throttle or brake manipulation to get through the jump and onto the landing. For me, I found I was trying to sacrifice rear end traction to gain more steering like it was a TC car and that doesn't work. Still learning myself and finding that I have to relearn how to get through corners clean and fast with a vehicle that requires far more throttle\brake control to enter and get through a corner clean and fast.

I have settled on a setup that is not too far from the kit outlined setup, heavier springs and oil up front, 3 X 1.4 with 35 Associated fluid with gray springs, stock in the rear shock setup except for 32.5 Associated oil, front and rear camber links running them short at both ends, it can be a bit twitchy but the main straight at Nor Cal Hobbies is pretty darn short and still not willing to give up steering for rear traction. Pretty much all the settings after that are kit setup.

As I get better at controlling this buggy I will be forced to get the ass end more loose to get through the corners more quickly, such is life with a 2WD buggy is what I am learning. It has been hard to relearn a new driving style, old habits die hard and I find myself making the same mistakes repeatedly.

Take my points with a grain of salt, just my observations having come back to the hobby and trying to learn how to drive a 2WD buggy quickly on a high bite clay track.
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Old 08-28-2015, 06:01 PM
  #22476  
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http://www.redrc.net/2015/08/rdrp-b5...ing-mount-set/



New from Revolution Design Racing Products and made for the Team Associated B5M buggy is an aluminium low-profile wing mount set. The updated design places the wing 7mm lower than the stock wing mount does, which leads to a lower centre of gravity and improved jumping both over small, medium and large jumps. On top of that the high-quality 7075-T6 aluminium part grants a better support for the wing which leads to better aerodynamics and also improved durability in the event of a crash. The wing mount set is available in blue or black anodising.

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Old 08-28-2015, 06:27 PM
  #22477  
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Originally Posted by RCBuddha
http://www.redrc.net/2015/08/rdrp-b5...ing-mount-set/



New from Revolution Design Racing Products and made for the Team Associated B5M buggy is an aluminium low-profile wing mount set. The updated design places the wing 7mm lower than the stock wing mount does, which leads to a lower centre of gravity and improved jumping both over small, medium and large jumps. On top of that the high-quality 7075-T6 aluminium part grants a better support for the wing which leads to better aerodynamics and also improved durability in the event of a crash. The wing mount set is available in blue or black anodising.

Wish they had screws and buttons instead of body clips.
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Old 08-28-2015, 06:32 PM
  #22478  
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Yeah I can't stand the body clips on the wings anymore. I got the JConcepts ones with the threaded screw holes and they come with a set of aluminum buttons too.
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Old 08-28-2015, 06:57 PM
  #22479  
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Does anyone us the 66t spur for 17.5 racing ? Any reasons for or against ?
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Old 08-28-2015, 07:00 PM
  #22480  
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Originally Posted by gogi108
Does anyone us the 66t spur for 17.5 racing ? Any reasons for or against ?
Interesting but curious if the fdr works out to something you can fit that big of a pinion on and have enough motor adjustment for proper engagement?
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Old 08-28-2015, 07:20 PM
  #22481  
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Originally Posted by Fasttrak
Interesting but curious if the fdr works out to something you can fit that big of a pinion on and have enough motor adjustment for proper engagement?
Would allow a smaller pinion , moving motor back , may provide more rear grip .
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Old 08-28-2015, 07:22 PM
  #22482  
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Lots of great responses, thanks guys, I'm going to work on figuring this out and will definitely report back what changes I make and the improvement... Or I'll come back scratching my head even more... haha...

Going to work on getting Dirt Webs Gold on the front to match my rear and experiment with moving the battery around. Also, more laps will help i'm sure.
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Old 08-29-2015, 12:16 AM
  #22483  
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Originally Posted by HoldDaMayo
Lots of great responses, thanks guys, I'm going to work on figuring this out and will definitely report back what changes I make and the improvement... Or I'll come back scratching my head even more... haha...

Going to work on getting Dirt Webs Gold on the front to match my rear and experiment with moving the battery around. Also, more laps will help i'm sure.
I am in the same place you are. I am used to 4wd cars and getting this car is totally different. I am playing with adjustments also to get more front traction. I am running the same tires that some of the fast guys run but I think its not right for my driving style. It's all about doing small adjustments because they make a huge difference on this car. I usually take a note pad with me and write down what adjustment I did and then make notes on how it affected the car good or bad.
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Old 08-29-2015, 06:44 AM
  #22484  
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When using the Low Friction X-Rings,should the green slime be used with them also?
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Old 08-29-2015, 07:37 AM
  #22485  
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Originally Posted by KAWIDAD
When using the Low Friction X-Rings,should the green slime be used with them also?
I do not.

I do however soak them for an hour in shock oil before install.

NOT any longer than 1 hour.
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