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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 09-24-2014, 07:25 AM
  #14536  
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I finally got some grub screws. Ordered some .125"x.0001" spacers as well to remove slop I was having.

Holy crap did the grub screws tighten things up. There's no movement in the hubs anymore. I've got some play at the chassis hinge pins but that's it. Not even thrown spacers in yet.
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Old 09-24-2014, 07:30 AM
  #14537  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Did you get the AE or MIP topshaft?
MIP

Is there is difference? They looked identical.
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Old 09-24-2014, 07:32 AM
  #14538  
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I have both. I like the MIP better. It is a little lighter.
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Old 09-24-2014, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I have both. I like the MIP better. It is a little lighter.
MIP has never let me down.

I also took into consideration.....


MIP = Made in USA

AE = Made in China
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Old 09-24-2014, 07:54 AM
  #14540  
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you really cant go wrong with MIP products. They have been putting out top notch stuff for years. And they pucks they came up with are everywhere. Might be the best selling item they ever came up with. The only think I dislike is their "super diff" with regular steel balls. not carbide
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:49 AM
  #14541  
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what mip puck to get for this car its a stock 17.5?
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:51 AM
  #14542  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
you really cant go wrong with MIP products. They have been putting out top notch stuff for years. And they pucks they came up with are everywhere. Might be the best selling item they ever came up with. The only think I dislike is their "super diff" with regular steel balls. not carbide
They all look so similar. I opted for the Exotek myself.
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:55 AM
  #14543  
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Doesn't the Exotek need the spacer?
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Old 09-24-2014, 09:38 AM
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The MIP Bi-metal pucks are probably gonna be my next purchase. 40% lighter than stock setup.

I also changed out the shocks bushings to the aluminum ones. Then I replaced the steel flange nuts on the shocks and the wheels with lighter weight aluminum ones.
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Old 09-24-2014, 09:44 AM
  #14545  
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yeah, I have the alum nuts to hold the shocks on. I have not had one fall off yet, but they definitely dont have the bite of the steel nuts.
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Old 09-24-2014, 04:22 PM
  #14546  
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Default stock diff build

Assembing first car in 25 years. Top shaft bearing in case, opposite of sprur gear,does bearing bottom out in case half? The case half has a ridge in it. If it did seat all the way to the bottom how would you get it out? Can't post pic, not enough posts. The first idler is riding on the bearing.
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Old 09-24-2014, 04:38 PM
  #14547  
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Default diff build

I am an idiot, wrong bearing. Gonna work now. Used one of the links in the first post.
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Old 09-24-2014, 04:40 PM
  #14548  
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Originally Posted by mackelby
Assembing first car in 25 years. Top shaft bearing in case, opposite of sprur gear,does bearing bottom out in case half? The case half has a ridge in it. If it did seat all the way to the bottom how would you get it out? Can't post pic, not enough posts. The first idler is riding on the bearing.
It does bottom in the case, a pain to get out. bearings fit inside the idler gear.
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Old 09-24-2014, 04:41 PM
  #14549  
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So I have a questions about the shocks. Every time I take the shocks apart the oil is dirty. I switched to the x-rings, used green slime and still after only one week of racing the oil is turning dirty. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
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Old 09-24-2014, 04:42 PM
  #14550  
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if you look closely it is probably not dirt it is the coating coming off the shaft
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