9LikesMaking the jump to Mod?
03-08-2017, 09:35 AM
#1
Making the jump to Mod?
At some point I want to move into Mod. I currently run USGT (not very well). But at what point should I make the jump to Mod? Should I wait until I'm doing well in USGT? Should I move to TC 17.5T first? Any advice is welcome here. Just wondering how others got into that class.
03-08-2017, 10:29 AM
#2
moving from USGT to Mod will be quite traumatizing... I think a stop by an intermediate category would be a great idea, like 3.5 or 10.5
03-08-2017, 11:39 AM
#3
Tech Initiate
I feel that it is absolutely worth transitioning through quicker classes in stages. If you're driving mod there's an expectation that you'll be driving faster than any other existing class as you'll have boosted esc settings and likely a low wind motor. Mod cars are a heap of fun however errors at that speed can be catastrophic. Parts wear out quicker under the heavier load as well so keep that in mind. Basically everything is turned up a few notches!
03-08-2017, 12:08 PM
#5
I would do some stock first for sure. Its very similar to mod other than the power level.
Mod is cheaper if you're not crashing because you can use any old crappy battery and the same motor for years..... But I never found it to actually be cheaper because crashes can really tear stuff up, like chassis plate and top deck type expensive stuff.
Mod is cheaper if you're not crashing because you can use any old crappy battery and the same motor for years..... But I never found it to actually be cheaper because crashes can really tear stuff up, like chassis plate and top deck type expensive stuff.
03-08-2017, 12:28 PM
#6
I would do some stock first for sure. Its very similar to mod other than the power level.
Mod is cheaper if you're not crashing because you can use any old crappy battery and the same motor for years..... But I never found it to actually be cheaper because crashes can really tear stuff up, like chassis plate and top deck type expensive stuff.
Mod is cheaper if you're not crashing because you can use any old crappy battery and the same motor for years..... But I never found it to actually be cheaper because crashes can really tear stuff up, like chassis plate and top deck type expensive stuff.
jumping to mod from USGT is like a trying to go from driving a SMART car one day and tomorrow wanting to race Formula 1
03-08-2017, 01:05 PM
#8
Become proficient in 17.5 and then make the jump to Modified.
03-08-2017, 02:09 PM
#11
I also thought mod would be cheaper than stock but it will always depend on which level you want to reach. Consider that at the top Mod level, you can change your chassis at each race. To be reasonable, you can use a car for a race, the two or three trainings after that then you go to the next race with a new car.
That's absolutely not how I practice RC... I don't know the classes raced where you live, but the most reasonable compromise between speed, fun, and budget is 13.5 boosted. Well configured you can easily reach 70 km/h, which could be more than enough on most of tracks...
That's absolutely not how I practice RC... I don't know the classes raced where you live, but the most reasonable compromise between speed, fun, and budget is 13.5 boosted. Well configured you can easily reach 70 km/h, which could be more than enough on most of tracks...
03-08-2017, 02:47 PM
#12
I also thought mod would be cheaper than stock but it will always depend on which level you want to reach. Consider that at the top Mod level, you can change your chassis at each race. To be reasonable, you can use a car for a race, the two or three trainings after that then you go to the next race with a new car.
That's absolutely not how I practice RC... I don't know the classes raced where you live, but the most reasonable compromise between speed, fun, and budget is 13.5 boosted. Well configured you can easily reach 70 km/h, which could be more than enough on most of tracks...
That's absolutely not how I practice RC... I don't know the classes raced where you live, but the most reasonable compromise between speed, fun, and budget is 13.5 boosted. Well configured you can easily reach 70 km/h, which could be more than enough on most of tracks...
03-08-2017, 04:01 PM
#13
To anyone who wants to give mod a shot, I would give the following advice:
First, buy an actual race motor. If you eventually want to run a 4.5, get a 4.5, because if you have a radio made in the last ten years they are very easy to tame with one setting adjustment.
Mod is hard for stock racers because of low-end punch much more so than top end speed. We get used to just ripping the throttle. To soften the bottom end and save your ESC/battery/motor some work, go into your radios SERVO SPEED setting, select the Throttle + direction, and bump it down. For my Sanwa MT-4, 35-45 ticks was a good amount. This radio setting slows the slew rate in the throttle direction, meaning that no matter how hard you yank the trigger the throttle will only spool up so fast. Nobody watching will be any the wiser, they will just think you have a good trigger finger.
Cars running stock are generally not terrible at mod, but one persistent adjustment I have found I have to make is that when I bolt up more power my car, either touring or 1/12, will overshoot corners due to not being able to slow the car with the front end. I dislike drag brake, but one way to make the car better scrub speed without completely changing the cars character and handling ability is to align the front end more aggressively by toeing in the front wheels a bit, running a little more camber, and adding a few ticks of steering throw / dual rate. Also, more toe-in in the rear may be appropriate as well. The car will be less efficient, but hey, you have plenty of power.
And last, get in practice. For the first full pack or more just put around, concentrate on line and when you feel like you're going slow but hitting every apex you will be fast. Even in mod the race is won and lost 99% in the corners.
First, buy an actual race motor. If you eventually want to run a 4.5, get a 4.5, because if you have a radio made in the last ten years they are very easy to tame with one setting adjustment.
Mod is hard for stock racers because of low-end punch much more so than top end speed. We get used to just ripping the throttle. To soften the bottom end and save your ESC/battery/motor some work, go into your radios SERVO SPEED setting, select the Throttle + direction, and bump it down. For my Sanwa MT-4, 35-45 ticks was a good amount. This radio setting slows the slew rate in the throttle direction, meaning that no matter how hard you yank the trigger the throttle will only spool up so fast. Nobody watching will be any the wiser, they will just think you have a good trigger finger.
Cars running stock are generally not terrible at mod, but one persistent adjustment I have found I have to make is that when I bolt up more power my car, either touring or 1/12, will overshoot corners due to not being able to slow the car with the front end. I dislike drag brake, but one way to make the car better scrub speed without completely changing the cars character and handling ability is to align the front end more aggressively by toeing in the front wheels a bit, running a little more camber, and adding a few ticks of steering throw / dual rate. Also, more toe-in in the rear may be appropriate as well. The car will be less efficient, but hey, you have plenty of power.
And last, get in practice. For the first full pack or more just put around, concentrate on line and when you feel like you're going slow but hitting every apex you will be fast. Even in mod the race is won and lost 99% in the corners.
03-08-2017, 04:14 PM
#14
I hope you're getting a cheap roller second car for mod racing only, so you can enjoy and experience the difference first hand...
03-08-2017, 04:19 PM
#15
I feel like our Bay Area scene is friendly to beginner 17.5 drivers. The local fast drivers know how to pass back markers cleanly.
Driving with a small increase in speed may help improve your USGT driving, too.
Norcal Hobbies also provides an intermediate and expert 17.5TC class at club races, provided there are enough drivers.